97 960 Water pump? - Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum


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Old 07-26-2017, 12:31 PM
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Default 97 960 Water pump?

I think mine is bad..car ran rough then it wont run at all..fan light and CEL are on and fan itself goes on within a minute of running the engine..So if its the water pump does that mean the timing belt and tensioners need to be done too? Have not been able to get the car out of my driveway and get an obd2 reader on it...ordered a reader and it will be here in 2 days...
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Old 07-26-2017, 06:19 PM
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Do you suspect the water pump simply because you have fan issues? If I were you, I would check the "Stickey Knowledge Base for our Cars" section at the top of this forum that will provide you procedures for monitoring, testing, and remedying any water pump issues before opening the timing cover. In retrospect, if you were to open the cover, you'd be able to visually see any leakage issues with the pump. I had a fan issue that had nothing at all to do with the pump or cooling system as I had replaced the entire system (overflow tank, hoses, radiator, thermostat, coolant). It was simply a fan relay. More than anything, your new obd2 reader will give you insight on the CEL. That would be my first step - check to see what the codes are. That would also give you insight on the rough idle (of which I wouldn't imagine a pump would have anything to do with). Your fan light might be the key. If, in fact it is the pump and you need to change it (like I did a couple months ago), while in there, I (with a mindset towards preventative maintenance) changed the belt, pump, idler wheels, and tensioner - with the peace of mind that everything behind that panel was solid. But that's just how I do things. I would also say that it seems as if you're in a good spot having issues while it's still in the driveway. Good luck mate.
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Old 07-26-2017, 09:03 PM
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Thanks..If it is the water pump then the timing belt will get done too...I'm almost certain its time anyway...Engine was running very rough at first then it would stall..any subsequent attempts to run the engine made it even rougher..I hope i didnt bend any valves..
My question had more to do with wetehr or not the water pump was part of the timing belt assy and it appears that it is...so that being the case it isnt just the water pump that will be replaced...Yes I was fortunate this all took place on my driveway and did not leave me stranded somewhere far from home...

Last edited by bne; 07-26-2017 at 09:08 PM.
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:13 PM
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If you're suspecting bent valves, I wouldn't do anything else--not even put the key in the ignition--until I took off the front panel to inspect the belt. This is the most important thing you can ever do with these engines--taking all of five minutes--and will let you know immediately if there is an issue with the belt and/or valves. I'm sorry. I understand part of your initial question to be whether or not the ancillary items (belt/pulleys/tensioner) should be changed with the pump. I also read in your initial question (and this one) about an idle and running issue (you mentioned the fan/CEL/rough idle) and, again, I wouldn't suspect a rough idle/stall/no start/etc. to be associated with a water pump or timing belt. Because, of course, with a timing belt issue, the car ain't running at all. I would look for a idle issue to be either fuel/air/electricity related.
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Old 07-27-2017, 03:23 AM
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Thanks again..all aspects will be looked at..I am planning to tow this car to my Volvo guy...so he is well versed in these matters..with 30 yrs as a Volvo specialist..My questions have to do more with finding out what is involved if in fact it is a water pump issue..
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Old 07-27-2017, 03:49 PM
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Man, I'm sorry to have bothered you with all that gobbledygook. I assumed you worked on your own car. I'll tell you, while I'm certainly not a certified mechanic, I've tinkered with five Volvo's over the past 27 years and have found these to be the most well engineered and easiest cars to work on. The latest one, this 960, is a dream do-it-yourselfer. Good luck mate, it was a pleasure chatting with you and I hope everything works out in the end.
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Old 07-27-2017, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ptaylor25 View Post
Man, I'm sorry to have bothered you with all that gobbledygook. I assumed you worked on your own car. I'll tell you, while I'm certainly not a certified mechanic, I've tinkered with five Volvo's over the past 27 years and have found these to be the most well engineered and easiest cars to work on. The latest one, this 960, is a dream do-it-yourselfer. Good luck mate, it was a pleasure chatting with you and I hope everything works out in the end.
No problem.. No bother at all...I enjoy learning and gain insights from others..thats why we are here. I wanted to know what would be involved so that there are no surprises. Take care and thanks for your input..
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Old 07-28-2017, 02:07 PM
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Update..Got my OBD2 reader today and read the one code in there..it is P0117 which is Engine Coolant Temp. Circuit Low Input..or the temperature Sensor or the Thermostat...car was going into limp mode and it felt like the timing was off..this can be fixed on my driveway...
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Old 07-28-2017, 04:40 PM
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Wow! Good for you! That's a lot of dollars saved. An OBD2 is as an essential tool as any other. Will you be changing the sensor and thermostat yourself?
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Old 07-28-2017, 05:54 PM
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Yeah I can handle that..the only problem I am having is removing the bolts to the thermostat..they require a TORX tool and none of them seem to fit correctly ...
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Old 07-28-2017, 06:01 PM
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Yep, as I remember, that's a Torx 30/35 (but I'd have to check, it's been a bit since I changed mine). Are you considering purchasing a set? If so, they will come in handy all over the car. I have a Torx screwdriver set and a Torx socket set. You've got to be careful though, the metal of those bolts are pretty soft, so standard bits will tear them up. You've got me jealous now... wishing I had time to dive under the hood of mine and start tinkering with stuff!
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Old 07-28-2017, 10:07 PM
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T44 was supposed to fit..its still a tad too small and the next size up is too big..so i dont know how these are coming out
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Old 07-29-2017, 02:28 PM
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Again, that metal is really soft and easily damaged. The smaller one will strip in no time. When I pulled mine, I took the one that seemed just a bit too large (but the one the instructions said should fit) and lightly tapped the top of it whereas it slid perfectly into the hole, making a tight and nice fit.
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Old 07-29-2017, 02:46 PM
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Ok I went and bought a good quality TORX set and T40 is the right size.was able to get one bolt out fine but the other did strip..still managed to get it out too...
Now the thermostat seemed operable but a bit stiff so i replaced it anyway... Put it back together. When I turned the key on the fan did not come on immediately but the battery was too weak to start the car...jumped it and car was a hard start..and wouldnt start until i pushed the gas pedal to the floor and held it...and the it startedd with alot of smoke coming out the exhaust...once running it was rough but then it began to smooth out and the temp gauge slowly began to move indicating it was warming up.. I decided to try and drive it..put it in reverse and as it started to move it all of a sudden began to accelerate on its on..my attempt to rev it down only made the engine revs higher..I had to shut off the ignition..A few mins later and it was a hard start again..pressing on the gas got it to start but then the same things repeated themselves as described above.. The gas pedal pressure felt unusually stiff...
So I wonder if i somehow did something mechanically from the gas pedal to the throttle body???

Last edited by bne; 07-29-2017 at 02:49 PM.
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Old 07-29-2017, 04:39 PM
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Well, first of all, congratulations on getting those bolts out and changing the thermostat. Sounds like that took care of the fan issue. Also sounds like your holding the pedal down cleared out the flooded chambers, evidenced by all the (I assume) white smoke. But after it started and ran, upon restart, there should have been no need to give it any pedal to start. In fact, these engines will easily flood if given pedal on ignition. Sounds like you have a throttle-body issue requiring you to hold the pedal down for start (thereby giving it more air - but unfortunately more fuel, which causes the flooding). When I had a no-start issue a couple months ago, I took the throttle body off, throughly cleaned it, gave it a new gasket and reinstalled it. And that took care of the problem. This was, of course after I throughly cleaned (actually replaced) the entire Crankcase Ventilation system, including (and I think most importantly) installing a new fire-trap filter. The air system was then clean throughout giving me a clean start. I don't understand what you mean by "rev it down." What did you do to "rev it down." The engine increasing its revolutions on its own sounds like linkage, but it could also be (and hopefully not) the MAF sensor telling the engine it needs more fuel. Or it could simply be a clogged air filter. I would check everything from the filter to the throttle plate to make sure it's clean and clear of obstructions.
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Old 07-29-2017, 04:46 PM
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As I think about this, I would check the throttle linkage including the throttle cable for unobstructed movement. And if you were to go ahead and clean the entire throttle body, you might also check the throttle body sensor to make sure it's performing properly.
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Old 07-29-2017, 06:08 PM
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Throttle cable appears to be un obstructed yet pressing on the gas pedal has more resistance than normal...
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Old 07-29-2017, 06:12 PM
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By rev it down I merely mean that i tried to bring the revs back down by tapping the gas pedal..but that only increased the revs...I was thinking that perhaps the throttle body or its linkage was stuck and by tapping the gas pedal it would somehow un stick...
Oh BTW I went back out once again..this time when i keyed the battery on the fan came on immediately..not a good sign..it would not start and i have a dead battery as well...but enough juice to re run the OBD2 reader and sure enough the same code has re-appeared..so now it would appear we need to replace the sensor as well..will do that tmrw ..and clean TB as well..to be continued...

Last edited by bne; 07-29-2017 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 08-05-2017, 04:41 PM
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Update..Success!!! Changed the thermostat and the temp. sensor. The sensor wire coming from the engine has the female connectors for the male counterparts on tthe sensor wires...so the female ends needed to be soldered to make a solid connection. Reassembled ..then cleaned the throttle body with some cleaner..got it all back together and the car started and ran like normal..once again...I did have some assistance from my brother so thats how it got done. happy to have Goldie back online,,,
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Last edited by bne; 08-05-2017 at 04:44 PM.
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Old 08-05-2017, 05:33 PM
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Man, that's one beautiful car you've got there! Glad you found and took care of the start/run issue. It's also a plus that you were able to take care of it in the driveway. Although I have nothing against mechanics making a living, as my brother's a mechanic, these cars are such a dream to work on, and you were able to spend quality time with your brother. I also had to solder my temp sensor wires. Good wrenching, brother. Keep motoring on. My wish is that Goldie will live to see that magical million-mile mark!
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