Best timing belt/water pump parts kit?
#2
#3
How's this kit look?
Timing Belt & Water Pump Kit - 960 S90 V90
Makes it sound original, but not too many specifics...
Timing Belt & Water Pump Kit - 960 S90 V90
Makes it sound original, but not too many specifics...
#4
And here's another kit, from FCP... costs more, but includes serpentine belt and some seals etc...
Volvo Timing Belt Kit and Water Pump Kit (Comprehensive) GMB TBKIT270WP | FCP Euro
Opinions?
Volvo Timing Belt Kit and Water Pump Kit (Comprehensive) GMB TBKIT270WP | FCP Euro
Opinions?
#5
The one at IPD doesn't look like an original water pump. The pulley is too shiny looking. That is, if the photos are the actual parts they are supplying now.
I dont want to knock it, I think I saw rspi using the same wp in his timing change video. But... before putting it on a car in my family I would find out from someone who used it, how is it and how long theirs has lasted.
I am not too thrilled about GMB stuff. Some people say that they are an OEM supplier to some car companies, but I have not found any evidence of this. 20 years ago most of their parts were made in Japan, but I bought a ujoint this year for my jap truck and it was a cheap china one so i passed it along to someone.
If I was going to try to save money by buying all the parts in one kit it would be the Conti. If I saw parts in it that were different to factory I'd return it before opening and just buy Conti's belt.
My engine is fixed from its misfiring and other problems. I'm going to run mine with no timing cover for a few minutes and try to detect noise from the water pump and the two pulley rollers. After my inspection the timing stuff got knocked down a few notches in importance but I am still worried a little because I don't know the history.
I dont want to knock it, I think I saw rspi using the same wp in his timing change video. But... before putting it on a car in my family I would find out from someone who used it, how is it and how long theirs has lasted.
I am not too thrilled about GMB stuff. Some people say that they are an OEM supplier to some car companies, but I have not found any evidence of this. 20 years ago most of their parts were made in Japan, but I bought a ujoint this year for my jap truck and it was a cheap china one so i passed it along to someone.
If I was going to try to save money by buying all the parts in one kit it would be the Conti. If I saw parts in it that were different to factory I'd return it before opening and just buy Conti's belt.
My engine is fixed from its misfiring and other problems. I'm going to run mine with no timing cover for a few minutes and try to detect noise from the water pump and the two pulley rollers. After my inspection the timing stuff got knocked down a few notches in importance but I am still worried a little because I don't know the history.
#6
#8
Could you identify their sources/manufacturers?
I would like to know: "The pulley arms say INA GERMANY, tensioner has AISIN cast into housing, and water pump says _____"
Both AISIN and INA (or one of INA's sisters) make water pumps. Where did Volvo get theirs?
I put my head down there again and I can hear at least one of my rollers through the timing cover, at 180k miles some of the parts might be original.
I would like to know: "The pulley arms say INA GERMANY, tensioner has AISIN cast into housing, and water pump says _____"
Both AISIN and INA (or one of INA's sisters) make water pumps. Where did Volvo get theirs?
I put my head down there again and I can hear at least one of my rollers through the timing cover, at 180k miles some of the parts might be original.
#9
I bought the Comprehensive Kit and it came with Continental belts and the rest were GMB I believe, and the seals were some other brand. With 145,000 on the clock I decided to just do it all and be done with it.
I recently had to do front pads and rotors. Bought Bosch pads from FCP and the O'Rielly's actually had a set of rotors. I didn't realize that one of the rotors was damaged on the inward face and had to buy one that day. Caliper was sticking.
I recently had to do front pads and rotors. Bought Bosch pads from FCP and the O'Rielly's actually had a set of rotors. I didn't realize that one of the rotors was damaged on the inward face and had to buy one that day. Caliper was sticking.
#10
I did some more research on this last night.
Dealer's part number 30758266, sold online for $111 should include a belt, two rollers, the spacer, a sticker.
A buyer's comment on a parts seller's site says the waterpump Aisin sells on the aftermarket is "identical except for grinding marks where the Volvo logotype should be." Bingo! So at another site whose name rhymes with clock lotto, the aisin pump and hydraulic tensioner are about $123. Hopefully the water pump has the bolts and gasket when bought this way.
With shipping hopefully this means I can get an all oem timing set including water pump for $250. If the aisin parts don't need replacement they can be returned or stored as spares.
Dealer's part number 30758266, sold online for $111 should include a belt, two rollers, the spacer, a sticker.
A buyer's comment on a parts seller's site says the waterpump Aisin sells on the aftermarket is "identical except for grinding marks where the Volvo logotype should be." Bingo! So at another site whose name rhymes with clock lotto, the aisin pump and hydraulic tensioner are about $123. Hopefully the water pump has the bolts and gasket when bought this way.
With shipping hopefully this means I can get an all oem timing set including water pump for $250. If the aisin parts don't need replacement they can be returned or stored as spares.
#11
#12
I'm pretty sure that Aisin is the OEM water pump. I had one leaking pretty good at 86,000 miles. I have read and spoke to people with over 200,000 on their water pumps. To me, the issue is AGE and miles. If a pump has had timing belt tension on it for more than 10 years, it's likely time to replace it. My policy is to replace any timing belt part that is over 10 years old. Replace rollers every time unless they are tight and quiet. Roller can last 2 belt intervals if the age is not bad.
At one point I was putting more than 30,000 miles per year on my car. A roller could last 2 belt changes when racking up the miles that fast, as should the water pump. But you drag that mileage out to 10,000 per year and the belt interval becomes 7+ years, I question the other parts life. I did my belt spring of 2012 and only changed the belt and idler roller (205,000). The water pump was NOT leaking so I left it alone. The tensioner and tensioner roller were both good so I left them as well. I now have about 245,000. I suspect that everything was replaced at 140,000 5/06. So, at 280,000 I will likely replace everything since the water pump will be 10 years old (maybe-lol).
Timing belt parts are no laughing matter but I don't mind going back in if I have a problem. I have the time, most don't. My last 960 belt was replaced at 60,000 and again at 86,000 (due to a idler seizing). The car was 13 years old.
I have also use Hepu water pumps with no issues. I'm actually afraid of the new hollow idlers with the green disk in the middle of them. I like the old solid idlers.
At one point I was putting more than 30,000 miles per year on my car. A roller could last 2 belt changes when racking up the miles that fast, as should the water pump. But you drag that mileage out to 10,000 per year and the belt interval becomes 7+ years, I question the other parts life. I did my belt spring of 2012 and only changed the belt and idler roller (205,000). The water pump was NOT leaking so I left it alone. The tensioner and tensioner roller were both good so I left them as well. I now have about 245,000. I suspect that everything was replaced at 140,000 5/06. So, at 280,000 I will likely replace everything since the water pump will be 10 years old (maybe-lol).
Timing belt parts are no laughing matter but I don't mind going back in if I have a problem. I have the time, most don't. My last 960 belt was replaced at 60,000 and again at 86,000 (due to a idler seizing). The car was 13 years old.
I have also use Hepu water pumps with no issues. I'm actually afraid of the new hollow idlers with the green disk in the middle of them. I like the old solid idlers.
#13
#14
At the boatyard where I work, we use a thick liquid thread sealant made by Loc-Tite, it's white teflon but without the risk of particles contaminating the passages (which is bad new on hydraulic systems).
You can also use standard gasket sealant. Just thumb a little bit on the threads and it will distribute itself when you wind in the bolts.
You can also use standard gasket sealant. Just thumb a little bit on the threads and it will distribute itself when you wind in the bolts.
#15
I did not take my own advice, and bought the Gates timing belt kit, without water pump. This kit cost me about $100 and came with a belt and two INA rollers. The belt is made in UK which is kid of "meh" to me and is not marked with the Gates logo. There is no spacer clip in the kit.
So if you are comfortable with Gates stuff - this is what you get if you buy their TCK270 kit. Lots of people with more experience and fewer psychiatric troubles than me wouldn't think twice about Gates (and they do supply volvo with certain belts for newer cars). The dealer timing belts are made in germany and have yellow markings.
I had a second look at my belt and figured out that it had the dealer service kit put on 110,000 miles ago. The water pump I have is factory original. So I need to replace it asap and hope one of my local dealers has the spacer clip in stock.
So if you are comfortable with Gates stuff - this is what you get if you buy their TCK270 kit. Lots of people with more experience and fewer psychiatric troubles than me wouldn't think twice about Gates (and they do supply volvo with certain belts for newer cars). The dealer timing belts are made in germany and have yellow markings.
I had a second look at my belt and figured out that it had the dealer service kit put on 110,000 miles ago. The water pump I have is factory original. So I need to replace it asap and hope one of my local dealers has the spacer clip in stock.
#17
Thanks for the reassurance - I've been spazzing all night since I realized how old the belt is. I do want to change the belt and it's not convenient to open the cooling system tomorrow.
There is a little bit of residue around the top weep hole. If the bottom looks ok and the pulley feels nice, I'll feel ok about leaving the pump.
There is a little bit of residue around the top weep hole. If the bottom looks ok and the pulley feels nice, I'll feel ok about leaving the pump.
#18
Unless, instead of leaking, the pimp's bearing disintegrates at high speed. If the water pump has never been replaced and you are putting on the third schedeuled timing belt, as I did, it's a good idea to do the pump too.
#19
hmmm, I should retract this, I was thinking this was over in the 740/940 bricks... I dunno anything about whiteblock water pumps longetivity. I know a whiteblock with a broken timing belt is very likely overpriced scrap metal
#20
We made the best use of the last warm day we expect this year, and changed the belt, tensioner and rollers. And it's good that we did not take on more because the light ran out as we were starting to test run the engine before putting the covers back on.
Our car has 182k miles on the clock, and the belt I took off today was installed at 72k. Once I got it off the wear was obvious, and being able to manipulate the belt in my hands exposed wear and cracks on the flat side of the belt. While installed, the wear on the belt wasn't obvious or very visible. We had driven the car about 500 miles with the old belt and I think that we're fortunate it held up.
The water pump has some residue around both weep holes but in both cases the liquid evaporated before it could travel very far down the pump casting. The pump turns smoothly and doesn't have any play that is noticeable by hand in either direction, and it runs without bearing noise. We cleaned the bottom timing cover, and since the cover is so easy to remove on this engine I will give it a look on a regular basis. My partner is not a car person and I will keep talking to her about checking fluids, looking at the tires and under the car on a regular basis.
I am still worried about the water pump due to its age, it just wasn't convenient to do anything to the cooling system today. I'd like to switch back to the blue coolant and renew the thermostat before replacing the water pump.
Our car has 182k miles on the clock, and the belt I took off today was installed at 72k. Once I got it off the wear was obvious, and being able to manipulate the belt in my hands exposed wear and cracks on the flat side of the belt. While installed, the wear on the belt wasn't obvious or very visible. We had driven the car about 500 miles with the old belt and I think that we're fortunate it held up.
The water pump has some residue around both weep holes but in both cases the liquid evaporated before it could travel very far down the pump casting. The pump turns smoothly and doesn't have any play that is noticeable by hand in either direction, and it runs without bearing noise. We cleaned the bottom timing cover, and since the cover is so easy to remove on this engine I will give it a look on a regular basis. My partner is not a car person and I will keep talking to her about checking fluids, looking at the tires and under the car on a regular basis.
I am still worried about the water pump due to its age, it just wasn't convenient to do anything to the cooling system today. I'd like to switch back to the blue coolant and renew the thermostat before replacing the water pump.
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