Folks - anyone can send me a step by step trace backwards from the coil to power source and what is in between? Have replaced flywheel sensor, both relays (radio supression relay and fan motor) on engine side left wheelwell, replaced the Bosch control module in same area, checked fuses (all OK) and the fuel pump dual relay clicks in when key is turned, but zero voltage shows at pin 15 (or 1 ) of the coil when cranking and there is of course no spark to fire anything up. The coil checks out OK about 7 tenths of an ohm from 1 to 15 and about 7.6K ohms from center HV pin to either side. I am scratching head over this one and don't have a good enough wiring diagram with pointers on where to find the connectors or items to trace and work from. Thanks in advance for all that accumulated wisdom out there

 

More items checked - ballast resistor all read same 7.4 ohms resistance to ground. Ran the blink tests on the DTC pins 2 and 6 and both yield 1 1 1 showing no fault in memory, but then the power has been off and it has not re-started since, so duh! Tried to start in P and N - no joy in either position. Checke fuel pumps, both operate.
I am pretty sure it is electrical because it was running then quit cold with no degradation in power. Managed some restarts before total failure, no re-start since even with all parts now replaced.
Help! What am I not seeing?
What other sensor is there to check that would kill start voltage to coil by not working correctly? Do mass air sensor failures cause total shutdown?

 

No, a failed amm will not cause shutdown. Indeed, there is a limp home mode in the ecu. Honestly, I'd recheck the crank sensor. It should be noted that if the crank sensor a/k/a impulse sensor a/k/a CPS has failed and not sending a signal to the ecu, the ecu will not supply any signal to the power stage/ignition coil and the car won't start so...no coil output may be a result of no coil input rather than the coil having failed. There's also the remote chance your ecu is toast.

 

Thanks swiftjustice44. The crank sensor is brand new and is same from external appearance to what I removed. The one removed had a worn sensor tip and was all crudded with rust. Today I dismantled the distributor, other than being a bit cruddy with old oil it was almost new, cleaned it completely, checked brush contact and re-assembled to no effect. I guess I need to trace each line (3 wires) from the crank sensor junction to the ECU or wherever they go to make sure I have continuity. That or need to find out what signal should be measured at each pin of the sensor and the wire to the ECU in some way. Just to be safe, I have a new ECU on order, used but cited as operational from identical year car. A most aggravating vehicle. I guess when I solve it it will be by elimination of every other possibility... Edison where are you?