Let me first state I did a search on this subject within the forum prior to posting, in hopes of finding an answer and avoiding a duplicate post, but came up empty handed. So, here goes...

Recently purchased '92 240 (246K miles). Car in relatively good shape. Have a mechanic working on a rather lengthy punch list of items to get the car back to (or close to) spec. Bought the car with a failed Virginia inspection due to a couple of items. One of which was the "SRS" light, which is glowing at the moment. The mechanic working on the car is Volvo/Saab centered, and has done a fantastic job so far. Spoke with him this morning, and while he waits on a few last minute parts to finish his work, he stated, "I'll tackle the SRS light last.". He has owned a number of 240's, and been working on them for 30+ years, so I feel confident he will get to the bottom of it.

Given the extraordinary experience of so many on this list, what malfunctions would/could present themselves with a glowing SRS light? I'd like to have some knowledge on this as he begins his investigation (might be able to save some labor $$ with suggestions to him, if necessary).

Appreciate your replies.

 

Air bag light on means there is a self diagnostic code stored in the SRS control unit. To retrieve the code/s you ground the terminal under the SRS cover on the dash as shown below. Securely ground that terminal for x seconds and the srs light flashes a code. Secret code book tells you what the flashes mean. After all codes are read, ground terminal for x+ seconds to erase the code/s. That info is in a green service manual I no longer have access too - or I would give more detail.

Does your service provider have that info? That may be why he is waiting to finish everything else first. - Might be going to punt on fixing the SRS.

That early system is difficult to get the codes to appear. I trust your VA inspection is a safety inspection and part of that is verifying the SRS light works and goes out (if no faults are detected). So removing the light bulb is not an option.

What malfunctions might be present? Code retrieval would be the first step. That can happen in a few minutes. Then for example if you get a air bag code and test the wiring to the air bag finding an open circuit in the contact reel - a contact reel will have to be ordered, replaced and the code cleared. Or sometimes simply reading and erasing the codes will keep the light off the next time the car does it's SRS self test (that's when you first turn the key on) Or a false code could have been stored if someone had disconnected the air bag and turned the key on maybe during a horn repair or steering wheel centering. Then a simple read and erase would take care of that after the air bag was reinstalled.

 

The knowledge on this board is absolutely astounding. I don't want to be "one of those customers", but I'm going to forward this information over to the mechanic. I feel confident he'll either see this and say to himself, "yeah... I already know this" or he'll say, "OK... let's start there." Regardless, it's really good info, and may save him some time (and me some $$) troubleshooting. I am very appreciative of your time and knowledge on this. Thank you.

 

You might want to leave out the part where I imagine he is going to Punt on the issue.

 

rcutchins, I've seen the SRS light come on, on a friend's '92 240. It was during the time that the battery died. The first sign of the battery dying was, dash lights started flashing and stuff. Then after the battery was replaced, the SRS light remained on. I found the steps to reset the code (I didn't bother to read the codes, I sort of knew the dying battery triggered it) and afterward the light never came back on. Maybe you'll get lucky and you just need to reset the code. Let's hope. It is as Hoonk described, you literally just ground a wire to a terminal for so many seconds.

And yes per Hoonk's comment, Virginia state inspection includes verifying that the SRS light operates, i.e. comes on when you turn the key to the On position and goes off after starting the car. He rightly stated that the SRS lamp can't be removed.

I did a Google search for Volvo 240 SRS light reset and found this, which happens to be on this forum volvoforums.com. Looks right to me from my recollection.

(1) No B-block in engine compartment. SRS access cable in console behind panel marked "SRS" and between R/W DEFROSTER and EMERG FLASHER SW's. Pry panel OFF carefully, remove cigarette lighter ****;
(2) Make jumper between SRS cable (6-8 in) and cigarette lighter metal case, GND for 2-5 seconds, IGN switch is ON (may have to dissemble SRS connector for easy access to pin in cable, single strand wire for jumper is very convenient);
(3) Remove GND, SRS will flash indicating code stored in memory. Mine flashed 5x, (i created fault, disconnected SRS module at steering wheel w/ IGN sw ON...not good!!!!)
(4) Quickly GND again 3x within 5 seconds momentary gnd at cigarette lighter, SRS light should go OFF. If not repeat again, sequence and timing very important.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...-needed-96352/

 

Thanks for the instructions. I'm going to give this a shot. Bigger fish to fry with this new 240 at the moment (exhaust and steering). Just dropped a very large chunk of change on it getting a lengthy punch list of things done, but still left with an exhaust that needs spot welding in several places (no holes, just sections having worked themselves free) and a more worrisome steering issue (incredible amount of play in the wheel - to the point I'm not feeling all that safe driving it - even after this initial big investment mechanically). Right now it sits with a "rejected" sticker on it due to the exhaust and SRS light. If I can nail those two, I can at least get it legal. And yet, the steering has me the most concerned.

 

And it passed that portion of the Safety Inspection??

 

Well... that's what I find equally as strange. The only "dings" on the rejection report (this is Virginia) were 1) horn did, then didn't work (now fixed), 2) SRS light (still not fixed), and exhaust leaks (soon to be fixed). Nothing related to steering and/or the mechanics that ensure the car steers correctly and safely.

 

I'd check the U joints in the steering column, if ball joints and inner/outer tie rods are not loose.

 

I'm taking notes, as to be a bit smarter when talking to the mechanic on this. Appreciate the response and input. Ready to just get it done and actually enjoy this "new-to-me" car. It's in beautiful shape. I just want the mechanics of it to be as solid as I can make them, and certainly as safe as it can be.