10K oil change interval?
#1
10K oil change interval?
I was considering going to the 10K oil change interval I remember reading about for the 2.4L in the owner's manual. What are the thoughts on this? BTW I use a semi-synthetic "high mileage" oil.
Thanks!
1995Volvo850
Thanks!
1995Volvo850
Last edited by 1995Volvo850; 03-06-2013 at 08:04 PM.
#4
#5
People do 10K on conventional oil no problem. But they change their oil every 6 months.
From what I'm starting to see at BobIsTheOilGuy.com is that a 6 month interval is what is really preferred over distance. If you do start going way over 5K miles in a 6 month period, then perhaps synthetic would be a reasonable choice, however. Synthetic actually improves with time, but for the first 3K-4K miles or so, the oil won't have enough time to break down and show you what it's really made of.
Your driving style is of particular concern, as well. If most of your trips are less than 10 miles or so... you're not allowing the oil temps (not to be confused with coolant temps) to stay at operating temps long enough to burn off any condensation and things. Acids are another thing you don't want, but that cannot be burned off with longer drives. And this is why the 6 month recommendation is the better choice.
Also, I've seen it said that if you choose a quality oil filter, you will likely see better filtration by leaving it on there for 2 oil change intervals. Once the filter is lightly "clogged", that means less particulates will be getting through, as opposed to a brand new filter. If I had a turbo, tho... I would highly recommend changing the filter with every change, however.... just to make sure I don't do ANYTHING to affect the oil pressure. But I don't have a turbo, so..... yea.
From what I'm starting to see at BobIsTheOilGuy.com is that a 6 month interval is what is really preferred over distance. If you do start going way over 5K miles in a 6 month period, then perhaps synthetic would be a reasonable choice, however. Synthetic actually improves with time, but for the first 3K-4K miles or so, the oil won't have enough time to break down and show you what it's really made of.
Your driving style is of particular concern, as well. If most of your trips are less than 10 miles or so... you're not allowing the oil temps (not to be confused with coolant temps) to stay at operating temps long enough to burn off any condensation and things. Acids are another thing you don't want, but that cannot be burned off with longer drives. And this is why the 6 month recommendation is the better choice.
Also, I've seen it said that if you choose a quality oil filter, you will likely see better filtration by leaving it on there for 2 oil change intervals. Once the filter is lightly "clogged", that means less particulates will be getting through, as opposed to a brand new filter. If I had a turbo, tho... I would highly recommend changing the filter with every change, however.... just to make sure I don't do ANYTHING to affect the oil pressure. But I don't have a turbo, so..... yea.
#6
If you're going to run 10K between LOFs I'd recommend you do it on full synthetic. I know the factory stock recommendation for turbos is full synthetic but it might also be for NAs. If you look for sales on synthetic you can get a pretty good deal.
I would not recommend trying to go 20K on the filter. A good filter will start out trapping small particles and a clogged filter might filter better but it's because it's CLOGGED and you run the risk of starving your bearings of lubrication at higher RPMs when they need the volume and pressure most to prevent a failure.
Guys I know with high performance engines will drop the filter at 3/4K and add back in the "quart" they lost in the filter to go double but no one I know changes the oil and leaves the filter.
I've had and have also read others who have experienced lifter noise on start up using Frams. I would stay away from them.
And yes, these are THE GUYS when it comes to oil.
- Bob is the Oil Guy
I would not recommend trying to go 20K on the filter. A good filter will start out trapping small particles and a clogged filter might filter better but it's because it's CLOGGED and you run the risk of starving your bearings of lubrication at higher RPMs when they need the volume and pressure most to prevent a failure.
Guys I know with high performance engines will drop the filter at 3/4K and add back in the "quart" they lost in the filter to go double but no one I know changes the oil and leaves the filter.
I've had and have also read others who have experienced lifter noise on start up using Frams. I would stay away from them.
And yes, these are THE GUYS when it comes to oil.
- Bob is the Oil Guy
Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 03-08-2013 at 03:31 PM.
#7
But in terms of actually filtering the oil.... more and more people at BITOG are finding that a clogged oil is more "efficient" at filtering oil. Similar to a clogged fuel filter is more "efficient" at filtering fuel.
Obviously, you don't want to mess with the oil pressure, esp. in a performance engine... but ya never really know what's "best", or "most optimum", until you start doing oil analysis tests. I think Blackstones will even test filters directly, as well, but i'm not 100% sure on that.
BITOG is an awful lot like the Bible. You can find anything there to back up a certain point of view.
#8
I agree that I would never go that long on a filter. I have seen them start to come apart when customers decide they want to push the limits (and by push, I mean exceed) of their oil change interval.
Grndslm had a good point about driving style. I have seen plenty of customers go 8-10k and the stuff I drain out is nasty. But its mostly city driving and probably close to a year on the oil.
Grndslm had a good point about driving style. I have seen plenty of customers go 8-10k and the stuff I drain out is nasty. But its mostly city driving and probably close to a year on the oil.
#9
My BMW calls for every 15K full synthetic. I do it every 7500 and use the BMW special grade oil by Mobil 1. Toyota I do every 6500K full synthetic. My Volvos I do every 3-4K semi-synthetic. It's easy to do and inexpensive. I buy filters by the case from fcp groton and I change the filter every time. Even if I switched to full synthetic I would not go more than 6000 on the Volvo. I can change that oil in about 10 minutes on the Volvo and the cost is probably about $25.
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