On my 850 my defroster isn't working and the air isn't heating up. I checked and added antifreeze. The blower motor is working fine because it's blowing air. It's just not heating up and when I turn the climate control **** to defrost it isn't defrosting the windshield. Is it the heater core??

 

Thermostat stuck open, inoperative water valve, inoperative damper motor(s) (ACC)/cable needing adjustment (MCC), etc...

Is your coolant gage working?


JPN

 

Yes my Coolant gauge works fine. My car runs normal. As it warms up the Coolant temperature warms up as well. Is their any problem that this model is notorious for, that my be the problem here? Could it be the heater core?

 

I can only assume the heater core is ok. Recently, there has been several reports regarding the same issue. The door/panel that guides warm air is not opening due to inoperative damper motor/control panel (ACC) or the cable needs to be adjusted (MCC). There is another item that controls the heat; I forgot the proper name but in one of the recent posts regarding no heat, you will find a photo & description.

JPN

 

How long have you owned the car? Chances are that the heater core was leaking in the summer and the owner bypassed it. Look under the hood at the firewall under the brake booster and see if the hoses are connected there. If not, you need to get a heater core, replace it, then reconnect the hoses.

 

I bought it back in the beginning of 2012. But here in Louisville, KY we didn't have a cold winter so really didn't have to se the heat too much. I do notice kind of a sweet smell when I turn the air on and a little bit of film builds up on the windshield. I don't know if this helps in any way? I will also check the other suggested areas as well. Thanks for your input guys. You guys are AWESOME AS USUAL. When I do turn the control **** over to defrost, I can't feel anything coming out, though, either, whereas in the other settings I feel the air, it just doesn't seem to heat up even when the temperature setting is on max?

 

The smell and film may indicate a leaking heater core. If you get warm/hot air out of the other heating vents, that would indicate that the heater core is getting coolant flow, then I would consider that the door which directs the air flow to the windshield is not functioning properly. If you do not get any heat from other vents then the core is not receiving hot coolant, which it maybe clogged or bypassed as stated above by rspi. If your temp gauge is pointing in the same diection as it did before you had this problem, then that would indicate that the thermostat is working correctly.

 

The heater core box could have coolant sitting in it from before it was bypassed.

 

I just checked my hoses and my heater core's not bypassed. I filled up my coolant to the max level 2 days ago and I just checked it as well and it's down to the minimum level? Does this mean that the heater core's leaking and bad? On every selection of where the air blows it's blowing colder air inside my car than is outside and it's 30 degrees outside right now.

 

I just checked a code it's throwing from the B1-climate control position and it's throwing 1-3-1 which is Driver's side air duct sensor shorted to earth whatever this means. This wouldn't affect the heat would it? How do I fix this?

 

I pulled B1 1-3-1 Driver's side air duct short to earth
A7-1-2-2 Temperature Sensor Interval too Long.
Not sure what these mean?

 

Neither do I, maybe google will help.

If you get steam to the glass and coolant odor in the cabin, chances are that the heater core is leaking. Hopefully that is the source of the coolant leak, they can leak more than that.

Get the leak fixed where ever it is. If you overheat the car it will total it unless you can do the head gasket yourself.

That does NOT explain why you don't have heat. Drive the car to warm it up, then feel the heater hoses at the firewall to make sure they are getting hot. If not, you have a block somewhere.

The problem is likely in the climate control unit not working properly unless a air control door/lever is broken.

 

The linkage I'm referring to is just to the left of the blower motor, at the 10 O'Clock position. White in this picture.

 

A buddy of mine that's a mechanic said that the problem is thisB1 1-3-1 Driver's side air duct sensor short. But he said that he's not really familiar with the Volvo's as far as the location of this problem and how to fix it. I Googled it and I can't find out anything on how to fix it.

 

On page 29 there is a diagram showing the location of the duct sensors.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...55534169,d.aWc

There is also an "Air Mix" selector that needs to be closed to get the proper heat in this cooler weather.

 

Kiss4aFrog I didn't understand your link. Please send another. The link you show just goes to a new reply link.

 

For some reason it was the right link but it wouldn't open. Posted a new link.

 

Does this help?


JPN

 

Bobby: Can you open KFrog's link now? If not go here:
Volvo 850 Maintenance And Service Documents
and click on 3rd in list doc:
850 Auto AC Heater System. ECC
which is same as this link:
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/ser...ystem-Auto.pdf


JPN posted some relevant pages from that doc in his post above.

Search this doc for "1-3-1" and you will see diags for that fault. Unfortunately it assumes you have access to the official volvo break-out box (aka "test unit") which of course most of us do not have. So you have to read between the lines a bit.

Refer to the wiring schematics near end of doc. What the 1-3-1 fault is telling you is the yellow wire coming from terminal C1 of the ECC Control Module is either shorted to ground or the driver's side Duct Temperature Sensor itself is shorted. Refer the drawing in doc to help you locate where the sensor is physically located. Do you have VOM and can diagnose from there? I can give you more specifics if necessary.

Sounds like you have at least two issues; you need to find out where your coolant is going too. Report back what you find..

 

GDOG- I'll be honest with you, dealing with this problem, I'm out of my element. I can do the normal mechanic tune-up stuff but when it comes to this electrical stuff, I'm WAY out of my element. Is their a way to "BABYFY" this situation? You know put it in really STUPID_PEOPLE terms..lol I'm not sure with this problem it's even capable of simplifying it more than the rest of the guys have already done. The diagrams and links are GREAT but still not sure about what to do. With this code it's shorted to ground according to list. Anyways, thinks EVERYBODY for your help, you guys have been AWESOME.