I sure hope somebody has some answer for me this problem is still continuing after many hours.
Just to give you guys an overview this is how it started.
The car stalled and after a couple of minutes it will start up and run again for 15-20 minutes.
I then replaced the Fuel filter and the Fuel Pump relay but it still did the same thing.
I started looking at the vacuum lines and connector spark plug leads etc. and then after adjusting the idling up a bit I could get it to run but it was running rough and backfiring into the intake manifold.
I checked the fuel pump pressure and it was constant 210Kpa.
I also cleaned the injectors and tried other used injectors but no difference.
I had error codes;
1-2-1 MAF sensor absent or faulty.
2-2-3 IAC Valve signal absent or faulty.
4-1-1 Throttle switch absent or faulty.
1-1-3 H02S Interrogator at maximum enrichment.

I replaced the MAS, HO2S, Throttle Switch No difference.
I reset the diagnostics codes and checked a couple days later it showed the MAS again.
I checked the wiring to the ECU and it was all good.
It checked the cam timing and it was correct.
I replaced the ignition leads, distributor cap and rotor as well as the plugs but still the same.
I replace all the vacuum lines and took the EGR valve off and cleaned it also replaced the temp sensor on it still the same.
I checked the wiring from all the sensors back to the ECU and Ignition controller- all good and Ground are good.
The battery and the wiring are all good no bad connections or wires.
I replaced the ECU and the Ignition Controller – No luck same problem.
I loosened the distributor cap and rotated the cap both was about 20 Deg and there is no difference it seems the computer compensates and corrects it self.
I replaced the cam sensor, engine RPM sensor and Knock sensors but still the problem continues.
I removed the intake manifold and cleaned the whole thing and inspected everything it is all good.
I checked the cylinder compression and it was all the same at 245Lbs/in.
When the car starts the first time and it is could it tend to rev up to about 3RPM and then comes back slowly it does run very rough at first and I need to pedal it a bit at first.
I also found that when it’s still cold after about 2min or so that on hard acceleration it cuts in and out and when if I lift up on the pedal it just picks up and goes gain.
The same thing happened when I’m on the highway at 60Mph when I accelerate hard it will shift down and rev up to 3500Rpm and just stalls there it doesn’t loose all power it just won’t rev up more.
It will go past 3500RPM when I accelerate slowly and there dos not seem to be any backfiring at higher RPM’s
I thought it may be the catalytic converter opened the plug on the opposed side of the HO2S sensor but it still did the same.
The engine runs quite no mechanical noise so I don’t think there are any mechanical issues.

If anybody has some advice please let me know.
I would appreciate your advice

Thanks
Stephen

 

disconnect maf connector while motor is running and see if it changes,if it runs better then clean maf with contact cleaner. also check engine temp sensor located bottom of thermostat,check connector for backed up prongs,replace sensor if possible.

 

I got about halfway thru your post and i saw 210 KPa fuel pressure which (correct me if i'm wrong..) is about 30 psi which is at least 10 psi too low; supposed to be around 43 psi at idle for a NA; it should dip a bit when you blip the throttle. Either your fuel pump is dying or the fuel pressure regulator is bad... Pull the vac line off of the fuel pressure regulator and see if there's fuel in there; if so, it's definitely bad.

Really like (not) your shotgun approach to diagnosing the problem..
hope those were used parts you installed...


BTW: you got a real monstor of an engine if you have 245 psi compression across all cyls!! spec is 189-219 psi. Hope you're running AvGas or E85!!

 

There is no change at all when the MAF is disconnected or connected I have replaced it with a new on already.
I have replaced the temp sensor with another one but still the same.

There is no fuel in the vacuum line of the fuel regulator.
when I pinch the return line there is the pressure goes up but it makes no difference.
It has been about two months since it did the tests I will redo them and confirm the Cylinder and Fuel pressures again.

Thanks
Stephen

 

Correct me if im wrong but wouldnt "Interrogator at maximum enrichment" would most likely means you have a vacuum / air leak causing the ecu to enrich the fuel mixture to max..? have you smoke tested your manifold area for leaks..

If you cant smoke test, carb cleaner works well also

 

Bad fuel pump throws all kinds of wacky codes. Your symptoms point to that. Heck, since you already replaced everything, go ahead throw another fuel pump there...

On the idling issue: have you tried to clean the IAC valve?

 

I agree I also thought there is a leak but I have tested for leaks but found non I replaced all the vacuum lines as well.

I did a fuel pressure test again and it was 43psi at idle when I rev it up it comes down a bit.
I have cleaned the IAC and the MAF sensor 3 times but it made no difference.

 

Search here -- there is a thread on how to test the fuel pressure regulator. Is your car a wagon or sedan?

 

I have a wagon.

 

OK Stephen, thanks for the additional info and clarifications; that helps a lot.

Below are instructions for testing the fuel pump pressure from the 850 manual, FYI. But based on your input so far, don't think you have a problem there. To verify, you could actually drive the car with the fuel pressure gauge hooked up and tucked under the windshield wiper to monitor the pressure while the engine is acting up. This can be dangerous; make sure all your connections are fuel tight!!

So once you clear the codes, which ones come back on? All of them, or just the MAF (1-2-1)?

The backfiring would indicate either a lean fuel/air mixture condition, or ignition timing way off. Doubt the latter since timing controlled by ETM...

So did this issue start happening out of the blue, or did some event/repair precede it? This isn't a junkyard car you're trying to resurrect, is it?

What about the coolant temp gauge; does it work? Once up to temperature, is it right in the middle (3 o'clock position)?



Fuel Pressure
1) Before disconnecting, cover fuel line connector using shop
towel to absorb any fuel spray. Connect Fuel Pressure Gauge (5011)
between fuel line and fuel rail. Seal free end of hose using Plug
(5266) or use Fuel Drainage Unit (981 2270, 2273 and 2282).
2) Lift cover on central electrical unit located in engine
compartment and remove fuel pump relay. See Fig. 1.
3) Connect a jumper wire between relay terminals No. 1 and 3.
See Fig. 2.
4) Turn ignition on. Fuel pump should start. Fuel filler
cover can be removed to determine whether main pump is operating. Fuel
pressure should be about 43.5 psi (3.06 kg/cm  ). If pressure is too
low, pinch return hose by hand and check whether pressure rises. DO
NOT allow pressure to exceed 86 psi (6 kg/cm  ).
5) If pressure rises rapidly, pump and lines are okay.
Replace pressure regulator and recheck line pressure. If pressure
rises slowly, fuel filter, fuel pump strainer or fuel lines are
blocked. If pressure does not rise, fuel pump is probably faulty.
6) If pressure is too high, remove jumper wire between relay
or fuse terminals. Remove return hose from pressure regulator. Blow in
pipe. Remove vacuum hose from pressure regulator. Blow in pipe. If
both hoses are open, pressure regulator is defective. Replace
regulator and recheck pressure.

 

Another option for you is to open the hatch on the passenger-side in the rear of the wagon, unscrew the fuel pump (large pastic jar-like lid-cap) and look. Pump is made out of several parts, which were falling apart (literally). I always say -- it is easier to change the fuel pump on these cars than the oil + filter.

Do you smell gasoline?

 

I drive the car daily for years.
The problem was that it stalled and after a couple of minutes it would go again.
When started looking and trouble shouting everything the problem went from stalling to rough idling and back firing I'm not sure what happened and why it changed I did not find anything that was a problem.
Initially I had a lot of codes but after clearing it the only one that came back is 1-2-1 MAF I cleaned it 3 time and them replaced it with a new one but still the same.
The coolant temp is good at 3 O'clock position.

I will definitely look into the fuel pump pressure some more when I did the test the pressure was fine at idle when it rev up it came down about 32psi I also pinched the return but it didn't make a big difference.
when I accelerate hard it does jerk and at 60Mph when you accelerate hard it does not rev up over 3500rpm it just sits there with no power but it doesn't completely stall.
Do you think these symptoms points to fuel pressure?

 

First off your fuel pressure is too low. Secondly (as Gdog quoted), if fuel pressure does not increase when you pinch the return line -- pump is faulty.

My personal experience and others that I have read here -- bad fuel pump produces your symptoms.

Do you have a problem with looking into it?

 

No, I dont have a problem looking into it.
I was planning on doing it tonight I just wanted to get your opinion.
Thanks again you guys are terrific.

 

Where are you located?

 

Boynton Beach , Florida

 

If you were close, I could offer a fuel tank with a pump and sender in it for free. I think the pump can be put together / fixed.

I just need to get rid of this thing laying around...

 

That’s real generous of you. I don’t need the tank but could I take just the pump and sender. I will appreciate that greatly.

 

Sorry, I won't ship... If anyone wants to come pick it up, fine, otherwise it's going to the dump.

 

Will you consider if I pay shipping?