My 1995 Volvo 850 turbo pulls to the left while braking (a little). So I took off the right tire (actually both) and did find some play in the front control arm bushing. While on ipd's website, I noticed that they sell the bushing for $17. Can I just get that 1 bushing and replace it instead of the whole dang control arm?

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6888/105 ... rm-bushing

Has anyone tried this? Does the bushing have to be pressed in or can I just pull the two bolts, let it drop, slide the old bushing out and the new one in?

 

The bushing is pressed into the control arm.
I have a set of power flex ones I am going to install in a set of aluminum control arms for yellow.
I am going to the aluminum ones from the older cars so I can just replace the balljoint. The power flex bushings should last more than the life of yellow.

 

So that's not anything I'm going to be able to do in the drive way??? If I have to take the control arm off, will I likely damage the ball joint? Will a shop press that in for me?

What are you talking about "aluminum control arms"? Where did you get those from?

 

There were two types of control arms that came on 850's. I'm not positive but I think all the ones with replaceable ball joints were aluminum. Then there were the steel arms that the ball joint isn't replaceable so you need the whole arm.
You should be able to remove the ball joint from the knuckle without doing any damage to it, drop your control arm out and reinstall it after it's new bushing is pressed in. Pressing the bushing isn't a big job but I'd check around to see what a shop, Goodyear, Firestone, independant .... anyone with a press should be able to do. Not sure if there is a way you might be able to use a ball joint press from an auto parts store to DIY it ??

 

My guess is that the ones they sell today are NOT aluminum. So, my questions is, how can one spot the aluminum ones? If I went to a junk yard, how could I reconize them? I guess if possible, it would be good for me to get a set of them, get the bushings to have pressed in them, then keep them. Or swap back and forth as they wear. It sounds like they only come on '93 and '94 cars which have likely been swapped out since new.

 

I've never seen the aluminum ones for sale new. I think the stamped steel ones are an "upgrade" (at least someone thought so) and the only way to score a set of the aluminum ones would be a salvage yard.

I'm not sure about which would be better. It's nice to be able to replace just the ball joint if it's all you need but if you buy the control arm someplace with a lifetime warranty and you're doing your own R&R it's nice to be able to get a new ball joint with the bushings at the same time.

That was my thinking in getting them from Autozone. If the ball joint or bushings get worn I can pull the arm and exchange it for free. Only thing is now that I've read more about the Scantech parts it seems the quality is hit or miss. It's listed as a Dorman part at both Oreilly and Autozone but the ones I purchased at Autozone came in Autozone "Duralast" boxes but inside the box the part was bagged and had a Scantech tag on it.
Already have them so I guess when I pull the front end down for the steering and suspension upgrade I'll toss them in. If they do go out way early I might rethink replacing them with the same and instead beat on the counter till I get a refund.
Might be that the aluminum arm with a premium ball joint and poly or Delrin bushings might be the way to go.

 

Reading Tech's post again states that the ball joint can be replaced. So I'm assuming that it is NOT possible with my current set up. Maybe I can replace the frame bushings and not the ball joint. Heck, I don't fully understand so I'll wait till he post back, maybe tonight.

From what I have been reading on Matt's site is that the cheap after market ones will last longer if you set the car properly when you torque them down.

 

Just looked on FCP and iPD and could not find the ball joint on either site. Heck, the 2 bushings and a ball joint would likely cost the price of the cheap sets.

 

New control arms from Tasca motors are reasonably priced....$121ea. With bushings and new ball joints. Factory Volvo parts to last a long time....I just bought a set for my 850.

 

I just spoke to iPd and they pretty much told me to purchase the cheap assembly vs getting the bushings. They said by the time I get the bushings pressed in I'll be at the cost of the new entire unit that would include a new ball joint. So Kiss's thinking is right on. I was thinking about having oem arms and their bushings but heck, if their $17 bushings are from Scantech or something, I'd be in the same boat as getting the new cheap arms.

The option that Tech is talking about doing, with aluminum arms and poly bushings, that would be more of a lifetime application which would be better than oem, for 1/2 the cost. IDK, still interested in getting the aluminum ones I guess. So many decissions.

 

Ok, one last question Tech, will your new found control arm love set-up add vibration to the ride?

 

Not to sound like a wise a$$ or anything....but you could always take a magnet with you to the yard, the magnet won't stick to the aluminum.

 

If you have a lot of money you don't have that many decisions to make. Maybe that's why I agonize over each one

But if you wanted to go with Poly or Delrin bushings they would be DIY. They are a little more $$ upfront but because each bushing comes in two parts you'd save the shop labor for pressing them in ....... just a thought.

I hate this as now I'm considering the aluminum one if the salvage yard has any.

Yes it should give more vibration as anytime you stiffen a joint it's going to transmit more vibration. How much depends on how sensitive your butt is ??
The good side is it lasts longer and holds your alignment better when cornering as they allow the control arm to deflect less.

 

That's reasonable, it's just easier to look at the ball joint itself and see if it's bolted on or not. That and I've seen the aluminum ones and they are noticeably thicker than the stamped steel ones so it's pretty easy to tell them apart. But the magnet would be a failsafe

 

@ Kwalsky: Great point. I'll take one with me to the yard.

@ Kiss: We have to agonize over these decisions.

I'm going to a couple of yards tomorrow to see what I find. I guess the aluminum ones will fit the '95's no problem?

I didn't mind the poly motor mounts I put in the sedan I had to much. Just reminded myself that they were pretty much lifetime parts. The thing about these R's is that the suspension is already harsh. I think my shocks are gone. Every little bump feels like a pot hole. They are not bouncy like some shocks get but they don't absorb anything. The Bilsteins I put on the S70 are firm but not as harsh as these.

 

Here is a picture of the 93 style control arm.


Here is the bushings for them.
Eurosport Tuning: Front Control Arm Bushing (SET OF 4)

You will feel a little bit more through the car but not that much.

Rspi what size tires are you running?

The older control arms are a little lighter.

On the cheaper arms I have had many through the shop. They usually last to just out of warranty and then fail.

That is why I am going to the older ones. Depending on the balljoints you buys they start at like $20.00 and go to about $70.00.
So to me in the long run it would be cheaper to go with the aluminum ones.

 

So the aluminum ones will fit fine?

Also, are they missing some splash guard or something? Does that matter?

I have read so much about the front end suspension that I'm afraid to go over a speed bump, thinking that I'll blow a strut mount or something. I was looking at them yesterday and they look stressed and old.

I'm running the Titans with 215/45-17's. I'm rubbing a little on full left lock, probably due to the bad bushing.

 

Yes they fit fine.
Yes they do not have the splash guard but I do have any on my cars either. I remove them.
For the strut mounts get XC90 ones they will last 10 times longer.
Ok on the tires I am running the same size as well. But my car rides like a 850 on 15's.
So maybe your front struts are a little weak.

 

What struts are you running?

 

I am actually running weitec front struts.