I've been googling bolt patterns and fitment for more than an hour.

I have a '97 Volvo 850 T5 Bolt Pattern: 5x108,Offset: 43mm, width:16, diameter:6.5, lug size:12x1.5

would like to put a set of '01 MB E430 Bolt Pattern: 5x112, Offset: 37mm, width:17, diameter:8, lug size:12x1.5

Or wheels from an '01 Infiniti I30T Bolt Pattern: 5x114.3, Offset: 45mm, width:17, diameter:7, lug size:12x1.25

From what I understand, wobble bolts are unsafe.
Would wheel adapters be okay, especially with my statham-like driving every once in awhile.

I found this website that makes adapters:
http://www.wheeladap...el_adapters.php

I'm also unsure if the offset of either wheel would make them stick out the fenders unbearably.

 

I personally don't think it's worth the cost. But different strokes, so I'll try and answer some of your questions. Wheel adapters are safe. However the real problems come in to play as they will relate to changing the offset of the wheels that will work well. This will very greatly depending on a few factors. 1) factory wheel offset 2) the actual thickness of the spacer/adapter being used. 3) the offset of the new wheel being mounted. By no means am I an expert on wheels. But if you are truly set on going in this direction, I would suggest you either do a search for how spacer thickness changes offset. Or consult a company like tirerack.com, and inquire how much the offset will change with the addition of spacers. Perhaps even the company you are planning on buying from could give you advice. Since they will know the thickness of the adapters in question. At the very least get a second opinion from tirerack or a similar company, to at least confirm the fitment of the new wheels. Think it over greatly though. Is a $350-$400 cost to change the lug pattern on a few thousand $$ car worth it to you? If so, go for it. If it is just those rims you want, I'm sure you could find replicas with a 5X108 at a fraction of their price.
Anyway you decide to go, Best of luck to you.

 

Many thanks for your reply. I got a few ideas from another site, i'll call a company called Motorsport-Tech when it's time to install.

Hopefully it'll be a smooth/easy upgrade.

 

Personally I would not feel especially comfortable loading the lug bolts in a way they were not designed for on a daily driver. They are under enough shear stress as it is, with the turbo cars. Or if you need to remove one of the adapters from the rear in a pinch for some reason...can't easily do it on the side of the road without some way to lock the hub. What if you get a flat? Be a PITA to fit the spare.

If you must do it, make sure the adapter is machined so that it fits on the lip of the hub like a stock wheel. Also you will need to get a 4-wheel alignment...and there is no guarantee about whether they will be able to get it within spec so you may have to deal with uneven tire wear, especially in the rear with the delta link.

 

You make it sound like no one uses adapters? They are completely perfectly find for a DD. There is nothing wrong with running them.

And removing it on the side of the road? What would make removing an adapter any more difficult than remove a wheel? Exact same procedure...remove 5 lug bolts.

This is the entire point of an adapter. So you don't have to run the same old boring and played out factory wheels that everyone else is running.

All of that is taken into consideration when you order the adapters. You need to figure out offsets of the wheels, offsets of the factory wheel, distance from hub to fender and lip to fender, you can then order the exact thickness adapter you need. Also, motorsport-tech makes all of the adapters hubcentric, then no need for hub rings.

My adapters from Motorsport-Tech. Excellent quality product. I will not go anywhere else for adapters.



5x120 17x9.5 et55 BBS RS with a 36mm 65.1-70.3 hubcentric adapter.



You also get the benefit of getting rid of the annoying lug bolts and switch to studs, no more balancing the wheels to get them on.

 

Thanks alot, looks clean man! This is the route i'll take, Motorsport-Tech bookmarked..

 

I've always hated that!

 

If you have adapters, your spare will not fit anymore, unless you also get a spare with your new bolt pattern (which I don't think anyone does). So if you have a flat, you must remove the adapter as well to fit the spare.

When you break the lugs to remove the wheel, you do it with the wheel on the ground. With an adapter, you must first remove the wheel from the car to access the actual bolts (or nuts) on the hub. Now there is no wheel on the ground to hold the hub to break the hardware.

With the front wheels, it would hold via the transmission parking pawl, even though every thing I've ever read about it says not to do this because you risk transmission damage. With the rear, all you've got it the parking brake, and it would have to be in very good adjustment to work.

 

Well, yeah, remove the adapter and put on the spare, it's not a big deal. And your parking break will hold the hub while you loosen the lugs, that's how I removed mine.

If your parking break can't even hold the hub still so you can remove some lugs, than you have other problems to worry about other than picking out your new wheels, like maintenance. Your parking break is more than capable of handling that.

Even with the hub free spinning, you should be more than capable of getting a ratchet on there, and all it takes is one smack to loosen up the bolt. I've done it before.

 

Thanks Gilber for the help! Finally got enough funds to finish this stage.