850 2.0 T5 starting issues
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850 2.0 T5 starting issues
I just bought an 850 T5 and i have some starting issues. Sometimes it starts very well at the first key, sometimes i crank it for about 3-4 times very long to start her up.
I replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap, cam sensor, no difference...when she starts first 2 minutes before it warms, when I try to accelerate, the rpms are going very very slow, almost stalling, but after 2 seconds of pressing the gas pedal, and reach about 1800 2000 rpm, she revs up normally. Once it's warmed up, she drives fine, no problems, until i shut it off and try to start it again...
I replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap, cam sensor, no difference...when she starts first 2 minutes before it warms, when I try to accelerate, the rpms are going very very slow, almost stalling, but after 2 seconds of pressing the gas pedal, and reach about 1800 2000 rpm, she revs up normally. Once it's warmed up, she drives fine, no problems, until i shut it off and try to start it again...
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From: Burlington, VT
check fuel pressure at the rail - both after sitting over night and after running - should be in the 40 PSI range. If way lower on initial start suggests fuel pressure is bleeding out of the rail and it takes a few cranks for the pump to build the pressure back up. Any other symptoms - ie puff of black smoke after a cold start ? Do the plugs all look dry and the same? Looking here to see if you possibly have a leaky injector...
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check fuel pressure at the rail - both after sitting over night and after running - should be in the 40 PSI range. If way lower on initial start suggests fuel pressure is bleeding out of the rail and it takes a few cranks for the pump to build the pressure back up. Any other symptoms - ie puff of black smoke after a cold start ? Do the plugs all look dry and the same? Looking here to see if you possibly have a leaky injector...
All spark plugs look fine, the only think that i noticed is that in the cylinder number 2 thread, where the spark plug goes in, is a little bit wet and black that others...
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Burlington, VT
not sure where you are located - see if a local auto parts store will rent / loan a pressure gauge. there's a shraeder valve on the side of the fuel rail - screw off the cap and you'll see what looks like a tire valve to hook up the gauge. See the IPD video below.
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not sure where you are located - see if a local auto parts store will rent / loan a pressure gauge. there's a shraeder valve on the side of the fuel rail - screw off the cap and you'll see what looks like a tire valve to hook up the gauge. See the IPD video below.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ORA6adRVSc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ORA6adRVSc
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Kingsport, TN
In that case, my advice is to buy tools. The fuel pressure gauge is really not very expensive.
I am guessing you spend more than it would cost on "spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap, cam sensor, no difference"
I am not sure if you have the chance to see the coolant temperature with any scanner, but that might also be something to investigate. It may be that the car thinks it's already warmed up. We did not get the 2 liters here in the USA, but I will guess some of the sensors are the same. The engines we got have temperature sensor failures occasionally.
I am guessing you spend more than it would cost on "spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap, cam sensor, no difference"
I am not sure if you have the chance to see the coolant temperature with any scanner, but that might also be something to investigate. It may be that the car thinks it's already warmed up. We did not get the 2 liters here in the USA, but I will guess some of the sensors are the same. The engines we got have temperature sensor failures occasionally.
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In that case, my advice is to buy tools. The fuel pressure gauge is really not very expensive.
I am guessing you spend more than it would cost on "spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap, cam sensor, no difference"
I am not sure if you have the chance to see the coolant temperature with any scanner, but that might also be something to investigate. It may be that the car thinks it's already warmed up. We did not get the 2 liters here in the USA, but I will guess some of the sensors are the same. The engines we got have temperature sensor failures occasionally.
I am guessing you spend more than it would cost on "spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap, cam sensor, no difference"
I am not sure if you have the chance to see the coolant temperature with any scanner, but that might also be something to investigate. It may be that the car thinks it's already warmed up. We did not get the 2 liters here in the USA, but I will guess some of the sensors are the same. The engines we got have temperature sensor failures occasionally.
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Burlington, VT
plus, if you buy a guage with a hose, you can open the hood, prop the gauge up and see it from the driver's seat looking through the windshield - turn on the key get a measurement, turn the key to position 2 and listen for the fuel pump to prime - you can also try jumpering the relay if the pump doesn't come on directly, then go ahead and crank and see what values you get.
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plus, if you buy a guage with a hose, you can open the hood, prop the gauge up and see it from the driver's seat looking through the windshield - turn on the key get a measurement, turn the key to position 2 and listen for the fuel pump to prime - you can also try jumpering the relay if the pump doesn't come on directly, then go ahead and crank and see what values you get.
i even tried to put the contact 4 5 times to be sure that pump is making pressure, nothing, long crank.
i have a video with that, if you want to see it just let me know, i will send you somewhere
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From: Burlington, VT
vids don't add much value to the triage process. time for some tests. I'd consider doing: 1) measure fuel pressure 2) measure the resistance of the ECT sensor (resistance charts can be found by googling) 3) check plugs for wetness etc 4) check the fuel injector relay (its on the radiator shroud)
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can i use a regular tire gauge ? i thought that i need a gauge special for liquids or something..
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