Hello everyone. I am currently driving a 91 240 with about 167k miles on it. It's basically a car I borrow from my parents for driving to school and work and I am currently looking to buy my own Volvo sedan soon.

I am very conflicted about whether to consider a 940 or an 850. The 940's are obviously harder to find, especially the turbos in my area. I can do a search for 850's and find nearly five times more cars than the 940's.

While looking at both models my mom told me to steer clear of any 5 cylinder Volvo's as they are more costly to repair and are more prone to issues than the 4 cylinders. Her personal Volvo mechanic also told her he personally hates them, which probably made her hate them too, so she's just a little biased. Something about an engine or sensor issue, can't remember. She basically tells me to only look for a 940, which are hader to find, and stay away from the 850, even though I love the look of the 850 as opposed to the older looking 940. Is there any truth to these statements? I am seriously liking the 850 better than the 940 right now.

As far as turbos go, do they lower mpg at all compared to the regular models? I am mostly commuting to school about 60 miles there and back 5 days a week. I'm willing to spend around 4.5k on a decent low mileage car, something around 100k would be great.

Please let me know what you guys think about both models and if there is even any disadvantage of going with a 5 cylinder as opposed to a 4. Any other tips or information you guys could give me would be most appreciated.
I hope I posted this in the right section, I apologize if it's not.

Last question. What's a good recommendation year wise? 940: 91-96 and 850: 93-97?

I realize this is an 850 section, but I'm hoping that some of you have driven both models. Thanks

 

Hello Italiano86,

Greetings from Chicagoland.

Before I start, please note that I have not driven 940, and my opinion will be based on my prejudice. Do read other people's comments as well, and before you make the final decision, be sure to have your mechanic do an inspection, for thisa $100 plus is worth it. Also, with any car with many years & miles, expect certain things to go wrong, and parts alone may cost minimum of $300 in the first few months. One of the most critical items on 850 is the timing belt & its related components.

>my mom told me to steer clear of any 5 cylinder Volvo's as they are more costly to repair and are more >prone to issues than the 4 cylinders

Well, of course 5-cyls are more costly to repair than 4-cyls, there is extra cylinder, piston, spark plug, etc... Other than that, I myself do not know any reason to say that 5-cyls are more prone to problems than 4-cyls, except 5-cyls do have more moving parts but overall durability wouldn't be much different. Ask your mom's mechanic for logical reasons why he thinks 5-cyls are no good.

As to turbo engines, yes in general they do consume more fuel than non-turbo engines. You cannot get extra power for nothing.

As far as the model year goes, there are ads/disads to newer/older models. I drive '94, and its advantage is that it has replaceable front suspension ball joints (depends on VIN), and if there is a problem in the electronic control system (850 is full of them), I can manually retrieve codes & clear them. I believe '96and newer models require scanner for diagnosing electronic control problems. However, newer models may have improvements to problems that were found in older models. One note: ABS computer on 850s are noted for failure, and many places do not repair/upgrade the computer for models older than '96. If you need an ABS (which I think is a great safety feature), go for '96 or '97.

Ethically, I would say listen to your mom, usually mom's advice can't go wrong. However, I believe I have more experience in automobiles than your mom does (sorry, not an insult), and the best car out there is the one you like. If you like your car, you will treat it better, drive it better (may not be true for some people) and you will be happier. But whichever car you decide to buy, make sure to test drive the car and take it to your mom's Volvo mechanic for a 1-2 hour inspection. Also, try to find one that has full maintenance record & owner's guide.

I wish you the best of luck in finding a good Volvo.

Sincerely,


JPN

 

^JPN is a solid poster, and I think he answered all your questions about maintenance and fuel consumption (Turbo puts more air in each cylinder therefore you need more gas to make the right mixture).

Is the 940 RWD? Because if it is, watch out if you live where there is snow.

When I was looking for my car, I talked to a guy who is a used car dealer and used to be a volvo dealer (saw a bunch of sales rewards) and he told me to avoid '96 850s. Most people have never heard of that, but I'm just passing along what he told me.

The difference between 5 cylinder and 4. Is that you have an extra cylinder = more moving parts and higher fuel consumption.

Generally, Volvo's are supposed to be solid cars (so long as you maintain is properly). Repair costs will probably be higher as it's a luxury car, but it's a nice car.

 

It sounds like a 95 would be a good starting point for me then, as there are probably 5x more 850's in my area than 940's. I live in the bay area in California so snow isn't an issue. I really appreciate your advice and I am hard to offend, I know very well my mom is being very bias (she drives a 940, lol). I was reading that most of the time the ac, heater core and odometer will go out on the majority of 850's out there. Is there any logic to this? If so would fixing the odometer and heater be a hard job? I have never really messed with cars, but I like to teach myself, or I can just go to a mechanic. I like the 240 I'm driving right now, I just hate the feel of it. I know I'm safe in this tank but I want something a bit more smooth and responsive, not to mention more appealing, as this will be my own first car I will purchase. Thanks for the input so far, and I hope to hear more from from the community.

 

^What's your budget? Give me a price range, and I can try to recommend some other cars outside of Volvos, but I can't assure you that they will be luxurious like a Volvo...Unless that's what you want...

Cali is a great place for cars. The emissions there suck, but there are a ton of cars.

Oh, and I just reread JPN's post. The 95's have ABS. Or it might just be that in Minnesota it is required...Since the cars Swedish (snowy and cold there) and Volvo's are known for safety, they seem to be the innovators of new safety technology (like ABS).

 

Get an 850 Turbo.

I was thinking of just leaving it at that, but I'm a story teller at times so here it goes.

I had an 85 760 Turbo Diesel, then a 89 760 Turbo Intercooler, then a 94 850 Turbo, then a 98 V70 GLT which I still have and now a 97 850 R. So I know the 4 cylinder vs. 5 cylinder.

First of all the main difference between the 850 and 940 isn't the 4 cyl vs. 5 cyl. It's FWD vs RWD and they are totally different cars. The 940 is the last of the RWD Volvo's and probably more similar to your 240 than the 850 will be. As far as looks go, I don't think there is any comparison, I love the looks of the 850 Sedan and I like the V70 wagon.

The only Volvo I didn't care for was the 89 760 Turbo Intercooler. That was the 4 cyl engine and it just didn't have the speed that I like in my cars. I love to blow the doors off of older Vettes with a Volvo and youcan do that with the 850 Turbo. I once had a 1980 Porsche 911SC and the 94 850 Turbo would run side by side with it up to about 100 mph. Trust me my son and I know this for a fact. I was driving the Porsche and he was in the Volvo. My Dad was with me and we went side by side til just over 100, and I started it not him. Dad was just shaking his head and said that's pretty fast. When I was a kid he used to take me out in his 55 Studebaker Hawk and race people. So this crap is in the blood if you know what I mean.

One time when I was driving through Kansas in my 94 850 Turbo I wanted to see when it would shift into overdrive with it floored. I mean the car would hit passing gear at 100 mph and just wanted to keep going. It finally shifted at 127 and shot over 130 when it shifted. The car felt like it was being sucked down to the road at that speed. It's very aerodynamic in design. Whereas the Porsche felt like it was going to fly off the road over 100 mph. Much quicker around bends though at speeds under 100.

My 94 850 was my 2nd favorite of all the cars I've owned. I liked it better than thePorsche. Favorite was a 69 Chevelle mainly because it was a sleeper that ran right with the SS 395 but was only a 350 with a 2 barrell carb,3 speed muncie on the floorand single exhaust. Never did figure out why that car ran like it did.

Well that's enough of the story telling for a while.

 

Thanks for your input Jim. Just another few things I'm curious about. What are the main differences between say the 94, 95, and 96 850's if any? If repairs needed to be done with an older 850, say in the 100k to 160k mile category, would I easily be able to read a decent manual and do the job myself, provided I had the right tools and time? After seeing so many 850's online and what peopel can do with them, I seriously want one now, lol.

Oh yea, my budget is probably 5k max. I have an account going just for getting a car and to start out my future with, so the less the better. Once my mom sells the 240 I may have a bit more to spend, don't know how much I can get for it.

 

This is the kind of service manual you can get for the 850:

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/dow.../Volvo_850.zip

I also have a Haynes service manual in PDF, the owner´s manual and there is an online manualwithwiring diagrams(I don´t remember the URL).

What I like about my 854 T5 (except for cost and availability of parts in my country) is the amount of space there isin the engine compartment and the power of the engine. IMO, it´s very comfortable to work in.

As I told you on the other forum, I´d get a NA stick for reliability and better mpg.

Regards

 

Basically the 94-97 850's and the 98 S70 are pretty close to the same cars. The 98 S70 has more changes in body style and some differences. I have read that the 97 850 is about the best of the bunch. I like the interior of the 850 better than the S70 and I have both. The V70 is basically the S70 only in a wagon.

 

Some additional advice:

I know many people are on budget when buying a car. However, I personally believe spending extra few hundred $ for a car in better shape is well worth it, even if you have to borrow some $ from your parents. Would you rather have a car in good condition and just get away with routine services, or try to save money for poorly maintained car without a maintenance record, and end up spending $3,000 in the next 12 month for repairs? I would consider long-term economics. Consult your financial adviser for payment plans (your parents, that is).

I drive my boss's cousin's 850, and it was almost neglected. I almost had to restore it, except for the engine & transmission, but the cost for parts alone exceeded $2,000 (timing belt, suspension, brakes, etc...). Since I did all the work myself (except 4-wheel alignment at the dealer), I saved the owner a few thousands in labour.

This is a repeat, but make sure to follow the list below:
1. Test drive and check for smooth operation, check for dash warning lights, listen for noise, etc...
2. Have your mom's Volvo tech do an inspection.
3. See if it has full maintenance record.
4. See if it has owner's guide.
5. Do final inspection by yourself (hey, it's going to be your car, right?). Open the hood and look for fluid leaks. This does not require much expertise (though it is still better to have it). Check the oil level, coolant level, brake fluid level and transmission fluid level if possible.
6. Reject the car if you see obvious problems.

I'll also provide a brief list of the tools you'll need:

1. Basic set of metric socket tools (1/4" + 3/8" 1/2" drive ratchet handles, short/deep sockets, 6-point is recommended). Avoid cheap sets you find at auto parts stores/franchise stores. Go with made in USA if you can afford. If you can't afford manysets, a set of 3/8" drive is usually versatile.
2. Basic set of screwdrivers.
3. 2 sizes of Vise-grips (6LN + 10WR).
4. Basic set of pliers.
5. 1/2" drive breaker bar & 1/2" to 3/4" adapter.
6. A set of Torx bits/sockets (absolutely required).
7. Eye-protection (must).
8. WD-40.
9. Battery hydrometer (when checking for battery, wear eye-protection. Some people have lost their vision permanently, because either the battery exploded or the electrolyte spilled in their eyes).
10. Coolant (antifreeze) hydrometer.
11. Flash light (bright LED is recommended).
12. Inspection mirror.
13. Hammer (metal & plastic/rubber head)
14. Torque wrench, if possible.
15. Awareness for safety.
16. Willingness to read & learn.
*Some auto parts shops rent tools such as torque wrench, you might want to check with them.

Haynes manual should suffice for entry-level to intermediate-level mechanics. Also, volvospeed.com has excellent on-line instructions. A set of Craftsman tools on sale might be a good place to start, if you can afford it (you do not need Standard size sockets/wrenches for Volvo).

Also, read others' opinions on tools & servicing. My opinion is based on my prejudice and may not exactly apply to your needs.

I hope this helps.


JPN

 

Whats the easiest way to spot a good deal on an 850? Most in my area look less than stellar, plus I know drivers in my area are horrible, and I don't even want to know how they run their cars. Whats a good mileage to look for? I want it to last me a long time and I'm willing to spend maybe 5k max. I could go a bit higher, but it may be difficult. I'm also a stickler for keeping things running and in top shape, so maintanance wouldn't be a problem. Any searching tips would be awesome, thanks guys.

 

Don't you live in California? I find more nice Volvo's out there than any where. The good think about the internet is that you don't have to buy that close to home. I use autotrader and e-bay cars to shop and I usually put a 300 mile radius on my search. I flew from Columbus to Norfolk, Va to get my 850 R, then drove it home. About 600 miles.

I would think you can get a very nice 850 for $5,000. Personally I would stick with the Turbo models, which will have 56 (low pressure turbo), 57 or 58 (both high pressure turbo 58 being anR) in the 6th and 7th position of the VIN. Make sure you get a Carfax report on any car too, I found one in Chicago one time that I thought was great, but before spending the money to go get it I spent $60 on a pre-purchase inspection at a reputable Independent Volvo shop. He told me the car was pretty well ragged out and don't waste my time. I thought that was a well spent $60, but you can't do that too often.

 

>I know drivers in my area are horrible, and I don't even want to know how they run their cars.
I think Chicago is a lot worse. Turn signals andstop signs are optional. When merging into a busy traffic, you have to wait a long time until a courteous driver comes along. I've driven in many places in the North East (including Boston & New York) and haven't seen anything like this.

As to buying options, I am not much of a help, since I'm an old-fashioned shopper (I have to actually see, test drive, inspect, etc...) so read others' comments such as Jim's.

As far as the mileage goes, some people have been getting 850's with less than 100,000 miles. If you can find one like that, it would be great but expect to pay more for less-mileage cars, but I believe the added cost is worth it. Think twice if it has over 150,000 miles. My 850 has had 140,000 miles and the cost for repairs, parts alone, went over $2,000.

Good luck,


JPN

 

Best way, since it doesn't seem like you know a ton about cars would be to:
-Carfax (sometimes, people will do it free (dealer) or some people have unlimited carfax on forums, and they'll do it for you) But be careful, Carfax doesn't catch EVERYTHING, I have heard about cars which have been in pretty bad accidents and carfax didn't show it. Do not completely rely on carfax. But make sure you do this because there are some bastards out there (or a lot of em). I talked to this guy who had an Integra, and told me the title was clean. I came to learn that the car was salvaged.
-Online sites like KBB (Kelley Blue Book) can give you nice estimates.
-Post the link/ad on here and have us take a look at it.
-Take the car and take it to your mechanic to check it. Only when you're pretty much set on buying the car, and just need a final independant check.

I got my car for $3500 w/ 124k miles. It is a turbo model. It's got some suspension issues (it's old) but otherwise it's a pretty good car. There was no haggling involved, and if I bargained, I'm sure I could have gotten a few hundred more off.

I highly recommend you stay away from anything more than 140k because you'll probably be able to find cars with less miles. If the car has over 160k, I highly recommend you just press the back button right when you see that.

Cali has a lot of cars. You can find almost every car in Cali, wheras here, there are plenty of cars which are "rare".

Good luck shopping, if you find a car, post it up, and we'll try to let you know what it's worth.

Oh, and I just thought of this. DONT HURRY and keep your options open. Don't be completely set on a certain car, because you might pass up some good deals. And if you pull the trigger too fast, you might miss a great deal coming later. I have had good experience w/ Craigslist because you can see multiple options. Finding a great car will take time.

 

Here's one on craigslist I just found. I'm waiting to hear back from her about the mileage and record keeping, but this one actually looks decent compared to most of the stuff I've been seeing, lol. My favorite color and leather seats to boot.

Edit: She replied back. Says the car was just serviced and the next due date is in april. Has maintenance records, current registration, nothing major broken, but the odometer died recently, guesses the mileage to be 95k. Supposedly she has a carfacts report, which I asked for, so hopefully she can get it to me, if not I also asked for the vin number, but I'll have to pay 20 bucks to look it up. I don't know how badly the car needs brakes, but that isnt exactly a major fix right? I may check it out this week so it will be the first real 850 I look at. Can't wait to test drive it if, I love to drive my moms 940 turbo, and I bet this car will be even more enjoyable. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks again,
Drew

Got the vin # YV1LS5712RZ139965 Would be awesome if someone has an account to look it up since I don't have one. If not, no biggie.

My parents just sort of crapped on my parade. Since I don't pay any insurance for the 240 (they do) I will have to pay for everything for the new car. I can afford the initial cost, but my part time job would barely give me enough to pay for insurance(I make like 350-400 a month average minus gas). I guess I really want a new car since the 240 has totally blown speakers, even though I can hear music sort of, and it has no radio. Oh well, I guess the 240 is meant for me since I'm full time student and barely part time worker, even if it's the most boring car, lol.

 

I have three kids all grown an married now, and when they got their 2nd car they were on their own too.

If you fix that 240 up, it wil be worth more than the 850. They are getting harder and harder to find and are in demand. Some say the 240 is the last of the true Volvo's.

 

The car looks good, and it's priced at around the same I paid for my car but I had more miles. Make sure when you think about price, you think about the cost for new tabs/tax/etc.

Are you sure it's 20 bucks to look up one carfax? Because I'm almost positive that 1 month unlimited is like 30 bucks...

About the brakes, does it need new pads or new brakes? Because if it needs brakes, it's pretty expensive..
About the insurance, I believe for liability, my insurance is like 200-300 for half a year. I am 16 so I'm a new driver. The Volvo safety and the age drops the insurance quite a bit I think...

 

I got a few quotes from geico and the average was around 5-600 for 6 months. This included 25k liability for property, with no coverage on everything else. I even put in a student discount in there too, I guess the high price is because cali drivers are morons. What state are you from to only pay that much? If you were a new driver here you would probably spend 1k for 6 months, lol.

 

^Minnesota.

The bare minimum was 5-600 bucks?

 

Yea, for half a year with only 25k liability, nothing else(500-600, sry for typo). I got quotes from 3 different companies with similar results, give or take 50 dollars.