We purchased our 1996 850 R in July/06. Since then one time last year and now 2 times this week it has died in stop and go traffic. the conditions are every time:
1) very hot outside 94 F +
2) When it dies the outside ambienttemperture gage reads very high, I.E -125 - 139 F then after
starting returns tonormal temp.
3) After 1 -3 minutes of restarting it finally starts but very slowly. Coughing sputtering for approx 10 secondsbut then runs fine after that.

Any ideas ? What do I need to look for ? Testing ?


Thanks to anyone that can offer suggestions.

Guy

 

How is your coolant level? Have you noticed that it has been dropping?

Make sure the coolant mixture is correct. 50/50 coolant and distilled water. There was a Malaysian guy on this forum that had this crazy heat problem due to the fact that he had been topping off the coolant reservoironly with water.

 

Hello Guy,

Sorry about the problem.

First of all, is Check Engine Light (CEL) on? Whether it is on or not, visit a local AutoZone or other auto parts shop that provides free diagnostic service. Then let us know the code, if there is any.

Tell us when the car had received a good tune-up, if you would. Refer to the following thread:

https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm

Here're suggestions from the factory manual:

Difficult to Start When Hot:
1. Ensure fuel pressure is correct.
2. Check for gasoline in oil.
3. Ensure fuel injectors are not leaking.
4. Check ignition and sensor wires for proper connection.
5. Ensure spark plugs are not fouled.
6. Check ignition and coil circuit.
7. Check engine speed sensor or Hall Effect sensor.
8. Check throttle switch and connector.
9. Check idle valve. Ensure airflow arrow points in correct direction.

Engine Stall:
1. Check cold start injector (I doubt this one in this weather).
2. Check coolant temp sensor (ECT sensor).
3. Check ignition and sensor wires for proper connection.
4. Check fuel injectors.
5. Check throttle switch and connectors.
6. Check engine speed sensor or Hall Effect sensor.

Yes, check the coolant condition & level. It must be emerald green and should not have fuel odor. The coolant level has to be between MAX & MIN when the engine is stone-cold.

Actually, plain water dissipates heat better than coolant mix, but this would result in loss of rust inhibition, boil-over protection (I don't know why that is, even though pure water can dissipate heat better), proper operation of water pump, etc... If you live in North America, 50:50 mixture would suffice, but for hotter regions (Southeast Asia, South America, Africa, etc...) I would use 60% water and 40% coolant.

I hope this gets you started.


JPN

 

Hi JPN,

I think it's the other way around. To compensate for more heat you need more antifreeze in the mix. Our antifreeze (and antiboil) is Ethylene Glycol plus some additives. Check out this link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze

Regards

 

Just thought I'd comment in... I had the high ambient temperature readings in our 99 V70 and I replaced the intake ductwork to the ECU box and air filter. Now, the temperature seems more accurate. Mine had a high reading anytime we weren't moving - with the car on or off. Now that it's actually taking outside air instead of air that has been circulating around the engine, it seems to be doing better.

Just a thought...

 

Do you know where the ambient temp sensor is located?

 

Hi Axel,

If Wikipedia (edited by volunteers, as you know) were to miss one vital info, it was the upper limit of concentration; 70% coolant maximum. I do not know of any service manual or textbook that suggested using of more than 60% coolant (except for arctic regions). I remember Accord's service manual stated that use of more than 67-68% coolant would result in overheating.

My verdict: 50:50 for most parts of the world (including hot climate), 60-70% (coolant) for arctic climate. If you notice problem, alter the mixture according to service manual or manufacturer's recommendations.

http://www.prestone.com/carcare/faq.php#q3
http://www.peakantifreeze.com/faq.html#A

Ethylene Glycol + additives is the industry standards, they're even used for aircraft anti-icing.

I searched several Japanese web sites, and they all said that if too much of coolant is used, it will lead to overheat. If someone could try using 100% concentration in hot climate, it will be an interesting experiment.

Years ago, antifreeze used be, well, antifreeze and they had to be changed every winter. But now, even though they're still referred to as antifreeze, the correct terminology is "Long Life Coolant-LLC".


JPN

P.S: Sorry that I hit the wrong button on your post, I meant to hit "quote" and ended up hitting "edit". A mid-age moment[8D].

 

JPN, if I see a Japanese plane crash in the news then I will know who has been testing different coolant mixes at the office.[8D]

If you get caught drunk during working hours you can say you are suffering from antifreeze poisoning and that Wikipedia says you have to drink ethanol. That's not a bad excuse!

 

Thanks for all the help guys. I will keep you posted.

The car is with my son at college now. It was running fine today he says.The two times it cut off were with him earlier this week. Here are some answers to your replies:

1) Coolant isabouta50/50 mix. It has not been going down. The cooling system is not overheating.
2) The check engine light is not on.
3) I think the ambient temperature sensor is located under the front bumper.
4) I will check some things that JPN had suggested this weekend.

What about fuel pump and relay ?

Thnaks again.

 

What does the temperature needle on the instrument cluster show when the car dies? 130F is not THAT hot. I wonder if the hot air blown by the fan when it couples reaches that temperature.

Did you check the fuel pressure?

 

Hello Guy,

The fuel pump & relay could very well give you a problem like that. Some people replace the relay anyway just as a precaution, and I personally feel that's not a bad idea. To test the fuel pump, a gentleman named RedTurbo850 could tell you better diagnosis & repair than I could.

Will wait for your finding. Also if you would, please tell us asmuch details about the car's condition as well as the details on symptom.


JPN

 

I will get the car tomorrow and make the checks at that time or Saturday. The 130 degrees is the ambient temperature gauge not the coolant temperature. I don't really know if the electric cooling fan has been running while this is happening. I will say that when it normally does come on in stop and go traffic the ambient temperaturenever goes that high. So it is unusual. It does sputter like it is more fuel related than spark related. The true test is if it happened again is to check the fire (spark plugs ) right away to eliminate that from the equation.

What is the best place to check the fuel pressure ? Do I need to make a gauge with fittings ? What pressure range should I see ?


Thanks again. Please advise and I will keep you posted.

 

Hi,

There is a Schroeder valve (sort of looks like a tyre valve stem) in the engine compartment, along the fuel lines. You'll know it, as it has a plastic cap on it. Some people use fuel-pressure gauge, while youmay be abledo this with a tyre pressure gauge.

The factory manual states the fuel pump output pressure is 43.5 PSI. Double check on the number though, if you have a service manual such as Haynes.

I hope this helps.


JPN

 

Shrader valve is like a bicycle/tire valve. You press the inside and it lets stuff out.

There is one on the fuel rail (metal thing across engine). Unscrew the cap and see if any fuel comes out to check for pressure. Watch your eyes.

And have a friend listen to check if the pump is priming.

 

Ok

 

Thanks I will check the fuel pressure there.

More information - My son says if he doesn't turn on the AC it doesn't happen. If heturns on the AC then the ambient temperature gauge climbs and after approx 20 minutes gets to the the 125-140 F range then the car dies.

 

Hello Guy,

The ambient temp climbing while the A/C is on is probably ok, as the condenser (radiator-looking thing in front of the radiator) gets warm as the A/C is used, and since the ambient temp bulb (sensor) is located close to that area (front left, embedded in the splash guard unless dislodged), it may pick up some of the additional heat. That ambient sensor isn't very reliable.

Check the cooling fan to see if it's working. On some cars, the fan kicks in the moment you turn on the A/C. If it does, I can only assume that the ECU isn't doing its job with the A/C on (though electronic control problem should trigger CEL, unless the bulb is shot or removed). Idle speed has to be boosted just a tiny bit with the A/C on, and the ignition timing must be advanced as well, since the A/C puts load on the engine. BTW, is the 850 turbo or non-turbo? I'll see if I can find something in the factory manual.


JPN

 

Hello Guy,

At this point I am suspecting either the ignition control module or the engine ECU may be having problem maintaining idle when hot & A/C on. If not, it could be as simple as a relay that is affected by heat.

Will wait for your reply.


JPN

 

?

 

Hm.........My dad had a problem like this on his 626. The a/c was causing the car to over heat. Eventually, he justunhooked the a/c out because it was such an annoyance.

I believe the shop changed the t-statand somethings related to thecooling system but it never did the trick. I wish I asked him what the shop did, and frankly, he doesn't really care about cars, so he probably doesn't even remmber...