93 850 GLT. Recently replaced clutch but pedal only goes halfway down.
#1
93 850 GLT. Recently replaced clutch but pedal only goes halfway down.
About a year ago we bought a 1993 Volvo 850 GLT. It had one owner and was in great shape. The previous owner reported that the clutch was slipping and needed replacement. After we replaced it with a new kit and bled the system the pedal went right to the floor. After bleeding again we found the slave cylinder seal was broke and leaking. We replaced it with a new slave cylinder and re-bled the lines. The pedal only went halfway down but did come back up. However, the clutch was not disengaging and too much force was applied, breaking the push-rod to the master cylinder. After replacing the master cylinder and bleeding again the problem is still there. The clutch is not disengaging, pedal has very little resistance, as well as the pedal is only going down roughly 3 inches. We did discover that the release fork was very loose when we disconnected the slave cylinder. It moves up and down as well as left to right freely when disconnected from the slave cylinder. When connected the fork seems to be at roughly 6 inches from the slave cylinder but only moves to 7 inches when the pedal is depressed. I read that a temporary fix to the fork would be to raise it up until it’s snapped back into place until a new transmission is installed. Is this a good temporary fix and are there any other ways to fix this problem?
#2
Anytime you have a malfunctioning clutch you can damage the transmission, engine or both. Stop driving it and take all of those parts and return them for credit.
Start over with a different supplier and watch them look up the parts. Something is either wrong parts-wise or a very cheap and defective product.
Start over with a different supplier and watch them look up the parts. Something is either wrong parts-wise or a very cheap and defective product.
#3
I just bought a 1993 Volvo with this same issue. Previous owner tried replacing the clutch. The issue ended up being that the shift fork pivot had wore down and was further into the hole in the bell housing. The fix ended up being some washers loctited behind the pivot to return the shaft to its original depth. Runs great now!
Edit-obviously a new pivot pin would be desirable but time was an issue.
Edit-obviously a new pivot pin would be desirable but time was an issue.
Last edited by Jake0490; 03-31-2018 at 07:39 PM. Reason: added info
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