Well, I have been driving the 94, today I decided to drive the 93. Starts and runs great. Does not over heat but the heat never went past 1/4. So I figured thermo stuck open, so I changed it. Now it doesn't overheat and when I took it for a ride no heat, no blower, but every now and then the 'red radiator' idiot light flashes or stays on for a sec...Give me a little guideance. I am not afraid of this problem in that I am sure it is logical...but I don't see it...maybe ECT? Or? What would be the best diagnosis steps, dont' forget I have another car to steal parts from to try and the heater in the 94 ROCKS!!!

Thanks again for any expertise...

 

possibly a bad thermostat, or temp sensor? also check your coolant level?

 

The radiator idiot light is telling that the coolant level in the reservoir is below the minimum level. In rare cases, however, the light comes on even when there is sufficient amount of coolant in there. If the coolant level is low, I would bring the level back up to 2/3 the MAX mark with the engine cold.

Do you have ECC or MCC? It seems like the ECC as you have no heat/blower not coming on.

Will wait for your reply,


JPN

 

JPN...thanks Pal!

Yes I do have ECC, so perhaps I have a leaky Rad, if it is a slow leak it could be because I did park it in the street and I may not have noticed it...maybe today after work I will pull my radiator and get it checked?

 

You can check the coolant level in the reservoir only, as the cooling system on 850 is "closed" type and the reservoir sits at the highest point of the system, eliminating the need for additional air bleed port.

When you turn the ignition to ON, do you see the LEDs for A/C compressor & REC blink? If so, there is (are) trouble code set (B1 is the diagnostic port for the ECC). If not, the trouble could be mechanical.

If no heat/no blower is correlated, resetting the system may bring the system back to normal, or the ECC head itself has gone south. If, however, those issues are separate, I can only assume that the damper motor for controlling hot air is not working and as to the blower, either the fuse is burnt, the power resistor has failed (common/notorious problem, but did it exhibit fan not stopping at full-speed?) or the blower itself has gone south (which seems rare but is noted for making squealing noise).

Wait to see what Tech & others have to say on this.


JPN

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Ok buddy,
Here is the scoop or more information for ya. I pulled the code, it has a 4-1-7 stored, when I pulled them it had a 417- and 4-1- 8, the 4-1-8 erased, the 4-1-7 won't go out. I peeled the fan out and am looking at the rad, looks ok I am gonna start the motor, it seems like I am losing coolant. But I don't see where... I can read so what exactly does the passenger side inlet fan seized mean? Where is it? Ok back to my radiator...thanks again. I gotta get this thing fixed...

 

A little more info...I filled the coolant, let it run in the dry garage...saw a pretty good leak looked like the water pump, on the same side of the engine as the water pump...but pouring out pretty good just a little to the front side of the water pump. Lower on the motor there is a little cover of some kind 2 bolts...looks like it may be an oil supply for the turbo, i have an n/a car. almost looked like it was leaking from there...so I pulled the cover off, didn't think to put a catch pan under it, and well not sure if it was coolant and water combined...so I grabbed some Hi temp RTV and put a samll amount on the cover, let the oil stop leakin from the passage way, let it dry wiped it down and put it back in place...then refilled the coolant it is running in the garage right now...have to find the source of the leak...I am not to confident that the little cover is the culprit, but will report back in a bit...

 

OK, the little cover wasn't the problem, When I restarted the motor and let it run, this is what I have, now I wait for the pros...any Idea? Here is my vid...

http://ru.youtube.com/watch?v=6Xs-8XSFOSE

I moved the light midstream (no pun intended) anyone have any ideas as to What this is? besides a coolant leak???

 

Did you pull the timing cover and look around the water pump with a Mirror?

 

ya tech, still didn't see anything. I let it run with no fan for about 15 mins, I sprouted a small leak in the radiator which I will have to fix... here is a link to my utube video
[flash=480,380]http://ru.youtube.com/v/6Xs-8XSFOSE[/flash]
http://ru.youtube.com/watch?v=6Xs-8XSFOSE


Any Ideas?

 

Check from the top by the thermostat and make sure it isn't running back then down the front of the motor.
I also had one where the water pump gasket messed up and was leaking from there.

 

Well it isn't leaking by the thermostat at all, the leak must be coming from the water pump, I had a small leaky radiator, so I am taking it to the radiator repair shop tomorrow, and I will disassemble the water pump tomorrow see what that yields...Thanks again...

 

Bump for my own post, I pulled the radiator (small leak), and water pump, I pulled the gasket and material off the pump and the block, then I resealed it with RTV, Now I am off to the bone yard to pull the radiator off the car I just scrapped out...oh well, then I get another resistor and I should be in business...I will update...

 

Sounds like a plan.

 

Ok, well I resealed the waterpump, removed the radiator and replaced it, only to realize the replacement also had a leak, so I cleaned it very well, used some muratic acid and scrubbed it with cleaner, then I applied some JB weld, I have always had good luck with this stuff. Waited the required 16 hours and reassembled it, Filled the cooling system, replaced the resistor, and ...when I started the cars engine it started right up, so I let it run for 20 minutes, went to use the heater and all that happened was the lights on the ECC started flashing, so...I guess it is time to swap out the ECC unit...I pulled the codes...I had 4-1-7 and 4-1-8, I cleared the codes and started the motor, still no heater, but the 4-1-8 came back, so I see 4-1-8 .................... No Control Signal To ECC Power Stage What does this mean? If the fuse was blown, there would be no power to flash the lights? So, I changed the ECC unit, and still exactly the same thing, 418, anyone have any ideas? Not leaking coolant and everything else seems to be in good order, except for this damn Heater...LOL

 

I wonder if the other resistor is bad as well.

 

LOL, Guess what I am holding in my hands...if the 'resistor' fails, then are these the symptoms? I see from the manual that the voltage is supposed to vary between pins 6 and 42 or at least be between 6 and 12 volts, thus varying the speed of the motor, actually based on AMPS, (because as the voltage to the base of the transistor changes it allows a much higher current flow that is the way transistors work) which would work for these symptoms...so since I have 2 i decide why not take one apart...ends up the 'resistor' is another 'transistor circuit' Which I tested and it tests bad, once I confirm that this transistor is the culprit (really all it can be), I will post here the part number I get to replace it...and then you will have a fix for your 'resistor' issues...if in fact it works...I will update, but I fully expect this to be the problem...

 

I think you are inches away from winning the Novel prize. Be prepared for a trip to Stockholm and why not take a few days off to visit Gothenborg for Volvo factory tour.

I would like to see if there is a part number/country of origin on the xsistor.

That reminds me of the good old days at aviation school; base, collector & emitter. I believe Ozark Lee would be able to tell you more details than I possibly could.

BTW, is it a typical tiny 3-pin xsistor or is it a power xsistor?


JPN

 

The configuration is a Darlington transistor, which is used for high gain (POWER) circuits (that is why you see those huge FINS on the resistor, to dissipate the heat from the transistor), and I did check the motor it is responsive to the voltage variance, so my supposition is I have nailed the coffin shut on the 'resistor' which is actually a transistor problem. Depending on its load breakdown it could create the full on or full off condition...

The part number on the transistor is K1423 2L4...no other identifier, but I am 100% certain you can get this replaced at radio shack...like I did for this one when my power antenna failed...BTW JPN...it looks very similar to this except it is a higher power transistor, which means it has a biger and thicker heat sink which is screwed directly to the cooling fins from the back side, don't anyone else try to take it apart yet I will show how later...

 

Actually it is a MOSFET but it is now made of a rare material called unobtanium. The part is no longer available as a component unless you are willing to pony up for a 10,000 lot minimum order from some unknown supplier in China that I found on Baidu. Even then I doubt that they will work and they will have lead paint or something.

There was an extensive thread on Brickboard but I think he only got it close enough to more or less work. If you dig back far enough in the thread you can find the OEM part number.

http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/...al_update.html

There is a great Indy shop near me and I'm sure they have replaced a few and have dead ones laying around. My job has been sending me from coast to coast and state to state as of late but I want to collect a bad one and see what I can find for a good repair and do a writeup on it to share with all of the boards. The price of the replacement is obscene. I also want to get my hands on a bad ECC controller. I have not had one go bad yet since I only have one in the Platinum but I think I can come up with a $3.00 or $4.00home brew repair for that as well based on what other posters have described when their controllers fail.

...Lee