yep, that's important information. If it'll run on ether, then the only think you need to add to that is gasoline. So how's the fuel pressure? A tire gauge will fit it.

 

Yes, if you are able to get it to run momentarily on starting fluid, then it is NOT a spark issue, it is most likely a fuel issue. When you turn the key on before you try to start it, do you hear the fuel pump hummimg for a couple seconds? If not then check to see what kind of fuel pressure you had at the valve on the end of the fuel rail (looks like a tire air valve stem). You should have enough pressure for fuel to squirt out when you press the little stem in. If no pressure then check the fuse for the fuel pump, the fuel pump relay (loacted under the fuse panel in the engine bay), and lastly, the fuel pump itself.

 

oh *****, sick kids made me complete forget to post my response.

Switched on, let the fuel pump prime for a few seconds (left it switched on), stuck a tire pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, said just over 10 psi.

 

If I were you, I would bypass the fuel pump relay and try it again. The relay itself does not last forever, even if it's not rained on, but it would potentially get wet with the hood open.


If it turns out you need a fuel pump, at least they're easy to get to, but that would mean the rain had nothing to do with it.

 

Will do, this is a paper clip jumper wire situation, yes?

 

Yeah. It's a little hard to get in there, so you might seen to install it with needle nose pliers. I made a jumper wire with a spade terminal on both ends. When the jumper is installed, the fuel pump will run all the time that the ignition switch is on. The car is drivable that way, but you give up some safety in an accident. In an accident, the relay needs to be there to shut the pump off.

 

K, my paperclip just straight up didn't work. Got a snippet of romex and made me a jumper...

...which wouldn't fit in the terminal. So instead of potentially damaging the thing, I just sat there and held it with one hand and stuck the gauge on the fuel rail with the other.

..even with a mostly dead battery the jumper had it showing 22psi at the rail (and apparently climbing, my jacklegged stance had gas squirting everywhere so I pulled the gauge off)

EDIT: *K, drug the wife out there with me and did this experiment again. With a better stance the pressure at the rail got up to 40psi (whatsit s'posed to be?), until I let go of it,
still wouldn't crank, but I'm speculating that might be a function of the weak battery, which is on the charger now. Try again once that is juiced up... wonder how rough this is being on a oldish batt? (cheap battery, got about 3-4 years ago).

 

volvotips.com is a good resource for specs and diagnostic procedures. To quote: Fuel pressure should be about 43.5 psi (3.06 kg/cm ).

Read more: Volvo 850 basic testing service manual

 

HaaarrrrggghghOKay!

With a fully charged battery and a jumper it still wouldn't crank.

But! With a fully charged battery the fuel pump relay itself refuses to deliver more than 10 psi... let me double check that

EDIT: Yes, the relay itself won't get the fuel pump past 10psi. so that's on the replacement list.

The engine coolant temp sensor doesn't have anything to do with fuel delivery does it? Because I know its bad.

 

Coolant temperature is important for starting. It does affect fuel delivery through the injectors (not to the injectors).


By the way, when diagnosing things on the internet, you need to be real clear about the words "crank", "start", "turn over" and all that. I use the word crank to refer to the starter motor rotating the engine. You don't need any gasoline for that.

 

Start then, my bad. Still won't start.

 

Replace the coolant temperature sensor and fuel pump relay and then try it......

 

If it was me, I would spend 10 cents making a jumper wire that fits great before I would buy a new relay. But that is just me.

 

@ Psaboic: They're on the way.

@ firebird: thought about a perma-jumper, wife said no


Guys, You have no idea how much I appreciate the time you've spent on this thread. Thanks much.

 

Gald to help....we want to get this thing running almost as bad as you do.....

 

Hey guys. Sorry for the lack of updates, I've been working out of town for a while now, so the project car has fallen by the wayside.

A'ight, after our last round I ordered another fuel pump relay and a engine coolant temperature sensor, and beyond that my mechanical karma seems to have kicked in.
Ascertained that replacing the sensor would require removing the thermostat housing.
Was delighted to find that I actually owned a T40 bit.
Loosened the thermostat housing bolt closest to the fuel rail.
Promptly rounded out the bolt farthest from the fuel rail.
Tried to remedy that with an appropriately sized allen wrench, made it worse.
Gnabbed a bolt remover and matching drill bit.
....failed at removing the bolt entirely (now I've got a stuck bolt with a neat 1/16th inch hole through the center).
Gave it one more solid go, tapping the bolt remover with a ball pein...
...snapped the thermostat housing in two.


Where I'm at now is researching the least painful way to get the power steering pump out of the way so I can completely remove this bit I've broken now and either replace it or have it TIG welded and then replace the sensor I was actually after and see if that fixes the no-start.

Hope the summer is going well for everyone.

EDIT: Ah bollocks. Just realized the compressor and alternator and the bracket they're mounted to are going to have to come off as well, and I need a $100 thermostat housing in addition to whatever else.

EDIT EDIT: Got it off!, every accessory is off the motor and the bracket thingy besides. And looking at this thermostat housing I entertained and discarded the notion of JB Welding it.

 

Once you get the new housing, get some regular hex head bolts and replae the damn T40 crap that the factory put in there. A lot of people put hex bolts in so next time you have to change a thermostat it is a lot easier. BTW, don't feel bad about rounding off the torx and getting into trouble, a lot of folks have done that too.

 

PM me your address and I will send you a thermostat housing for free.

 

OkaY! juxstapo's no-start episode 12!

Saint Firebirdparts totally hooked me up with a complete thermostat housing, can't lay the gracias on sufficiently dude. Even when I forgot to mail him the shipping for a solid week

Then went out of town to work again, ordered a new thermostat and gasket on general principle.

Now finally, after a four day bought with the flu, 1. went back to work, and 2. came home and started reassembling.

which leads to the extremely embarrassing realization; I have no idea how these brackets go back on. Does anyone have a comprehensive link to what goes where with the accessory brackets? (Up to an including the big slab of aluminum that snuggles next to the block)

p.s.... I love you guys. (comparatively)

 

Got it all back together...


...same situation. Turns and turns turns but won't start.