Can someone confirm or share experience about having the rear main seal leak getting fixed after doing the PCV box?
My 96 850 wagon started leaking the oil from the housing where engine and transmission meets and It looks like the engine oil. I dont see the PCV box replacement in the history and the car has 222k KMS on it. I am hoping that the leakage might stop or get to near stop if i do the PCV box replacement because this might bring the pressure inside the engine down and the leak may stop. Also, if you can tell me where or how to clean the orifice which connects PCV box to intake manifold?

Thanks in advance

 

The vent box attaches to the front of the motor. Also there is a flame trap that mounts into the induction hose just before the throttle body. Check the hose connections first.

 

Thanks Tech...I checked the connections and the flametrap was reasonalby clean with exceptins of 3-4 holes clogged on the bottom side. I cleaned it with carb cleaner and mounted everything back. The only observation from the dipstick hole is a puff of smoke/steam whenI suddenly open the throtle to max.Is that normal?
Otherwise Tech, what is your opinion on that this leak will stop or get reduced by doing the PCV box? Its probably a difference of about 500$ in doing the PCV job and getting the main seal replaced. Can the same box be cleaned (I saw some post mentioning the cleaning of trap with brake/carb. cleaner)? If yes, then do I need to get some seals for putting it back on or the same seals/o-rings can be used?

 

Someone please please put your expert opinion(s) so that I can go ahead with either side of the repairs. ( PCV box or Main seal)

 

Sometimes you can clean them other times they are clogged. You will need new seals and clamps if you reuse the same box.

You can try the box first and see if the oil leak slows down then take it from there but it might be to late already.

 

Thanks again. I am going to order the parts tomorrow and will do the pcv box this weekend. Whast kind of seal is the main seal? I am thinking that if they start leaking because of high pressure inside the engine then dont thay come back to original sealing position if the pressure reduces after doing the pcv box?
I have grounded the car for now to avoid chances of further damage to this seal and hope that it will recover after this repair.

 

The rear main is just a round seal.
But you have to pull the tranny to replace it.
If there is to much pressure and you fix it with the vent box then it should slow down or stop.

 

I got parts for vent system and i will do it over the weekend if time permits. What is your experience with 'Wynes Leak Stop' or other similar products available in the market?

 

Depending on how it was serviced before you got it that may cause more problems than you want to deal with.

 

As per the record, it was serviced by one shop 'Centigard' for last 7 years and I dont see any sign of PCV done in the past and the only odd thing is that It just got fresh oil change just before I got it. What kind of further damage do you anticipate with the use of Leak Stop?
Also, will I need anything else besides the new PCV box, the seal that goes with it towards the block and manifold gasket?

 

If the oil changes were not done on time there might be sludge in the engine. Adding the stop leak could make the motor sludge up more and cause oil pressure problems.

You need the vent box,1 seal. See in the link below #7 hose breaks alot as well.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...category_id/64

Sorry forgot the link had to edit.

 

I tried the leakstop thingy but doesnt look like working. So, I am planning to do the main seal next weekend. I got Felpro seal and have setup with a shop where I can do it using their tools/hoist/engine craddle etc.
Tech, please put your expert opinion on this:
1- Pennzoil 10W30 engine oil if fine after this repair?
2- Planning to drain the transmission during this and fill it with new Autolab ATF, Is that fine?
3- Nescar concentrate coolant is OK (ofcourse diluted)?

Any other things to do at the same time?

 

1 - Yes
2 - Yes
3 - Yes
4 - Yes. Fuel filter. Oil filter.

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

+1

 

Thanks Guys, I appreciate your help and support.
Will keep you posted and I will try to take some pictures during the process to (maybe) help someone planning to do the same job.

 

Finally, Thew job is done in 2 days of hard labour but almost everything went fine until we found that the steering rod came out of the splines probably when we lowered the subframe and that made me lower the subframe again after completion of job but the BAD part is that:

-The SRS light is now ON and I have no idea of what might have triggered it.
- Also i saw ABS and Tracs OFF light come on few times and i m assuming that during the process one of the ABS sensor's wires got stretched - This is not bothering me too much because i m sure that i will be able to fix it probably by adding new wiring and solder/sleeve the joints.

Any input will be highly appreciated.

 

If the steering has turned to far when the shaft came apart then when you put it back together you might have broke the contact reel in the steeting column behind the steering wheel.

 

I am assuming that i have bronken the contact reel. Can you advise on the corrective action now please? - Thanks.

 

You need to remove the steering wheel. In the back of the steering wheel there is 2 holes with T-30 screws in there. You will need a long bit to get to them. If the steering wheel is straight the hole are at 3 and 9 o'clock turn the steering wheel to get the bit in.
Then the center screw is a 18MM. Once the steering wheel is off then remove the column covers off. Then the clear part that is screwed on the end of the column is the contact reel. There is 3 screws and 2 plugs.

If you get a used one and take it apart remember to install the screw in the contact reel before you remove the steering wheel. The screw is in the wheel under the air bag. You will see the hole in the contact reel as well.

Also remember to mark the steering wheel and shaft before slide the wheel off.

 

Thanks...Wonder if replacing reelwill remove the SRS light or will I have to get it done from a dealership?

Also, I repaired the ABS wire that was broken on left sensor and I checked the voltage accross the two wires on the connector with ignition ON (wonder if this is right/wrong) and it reads about 2.4V. But now the ABS and TRACS OFF lights are ON and Iwant to know if this means that there is a code there that need to be cleared using the special tool or this means that there is still something faulty?