96 Volvo Turbo Wagon - How Much Boost?! - Help!
#1
96 Volvo Turbo Wagon - How Much Boost?! - Help!
Hello,
I have a 96 volvo turbo wagon. Currently sitting 9.5 i believe on a stock turbo. The whole car is basically stock. Is it possible for me to turn it up a notch? To 15psi of boost? .. Without having any problems? Please help. Thanks for reading :] Only also 80k Miles.
I have a 96 volvo turbo wagon. Currently sitting 9.5 i believe on a stock turbo. The whole car is basically stock. Is it possible for me to turn it up a notch? To 15psi of boost? .. Without having any problems? Please help. Thanks for reading :] Only also 80k Miles.
#2
#7
Also, don't let 12 PSI MBC fool you. sure its only 2ish PSI more than stock, but It's mid range that pics up most. Because factory the ECU limits boost to 5psi till 5,000rpm, then it will hit 10. with the MBC (which I don't exactly recommend. I recommend a DP and a tune...but I'm cheap, and I got my T5 for $350, and have a new top end...so it's easier for me to risk it lol) you are hitting 10-12 PSI almost instantly. You won't gain a lot of peak HP, but I would guess I picked up a good 25-30hp mid range total. Which again, doesnt sound like a whole lot. but 1st gear is damn near pointless, and on a good day it spins second. with the gear ratio of the volvo automatic, thats pretty impressive to me for a boost controller lol. ALSO, with upping the boost, you really have to be careful about full boost at low RPM. If your car is automatic, it should shift down a gear if you give it enough gas to make any dangerous PSI, but if its manual, keep an eye on the boost. it doesnt take much to blow a rod because your in 5th gear going up hill at 2,000 rpm making 12psi. (which is another reason to just get the tune). Which brings me to my next subject. ANY sort of modified or upped boost, you need a boost gauge. You can get one at ADV. auto for about $25. or you can get a very nice one for about $50. I personally have been very satisfied with Glowshift.com products. I have the black 9 color LED gauge. Black case, black backed, with colored lettering. $42.99 with free (2 day) shipping. Happy modding!
P.S. Boost controllers are about $15. I got mine from DNA Motoring, $14.99 free shipping. showed up the same day as my gauge.
P.S. Boost controllers are about $15. I got mine from DNA Motoring, $14.99 free shipping. showed up the same day as my gauge.
Last edited by Sean Berger; 01-19-2013 at 01:21 AM.
#8
Also, don't let 12 PSI MBC fool you. sure its only 2ish PSI more than stock, but It's mid range that pics up most. Because factory the ECU limits boost to 5psi till 5,000rpm, then it will hit 10. with the MBC (which I don't exactly recommend. I recommend a DP and a tune...but I'm cheap, and I got my T5 for $350, and have a new top end...so it's easier for me to risk it lol) you are hitting 10-12 PSI almost instantly. You won't gain a lot of peak HP, but I would guess I picked up a good 25-30hp mid range total. Which again, doesnt sound like a whole lot. but 1st gear is damn near pointless, and on a good day it spins second. with the gear ratio of the volvo automatic, thats pretty impressive to me for a boost controller lol. ALSO, with upping the boost, you really have to be careful about full boost at low RPM. If your car is automatic, it should shift down a gear if you give it enough gas to make any dangerous PSI, but if its manual, keep an eye on the boost. it doesnt take much to blow a rod because your in 5th gear going up hill at 2,000 rpm making 12psi. (which is another reason to just get the tune). Which brings me to my next subject. ANY sort of modified or upped boost, you need a boost gauge. You can get one at ADV. auto for about $25. or you can get a very nice one for about $50. I personally have been very satisfied with Glowshift.com products. I have the black 9 color LED gauge. Black case, black backed, with colored lettering. $42.99 with free (2 day) shipping. Happy modding!
P.S. Boost controllers are about $15. I got mine from DNA Motoring, $14.99 free shipping. showed up the same day as my gauge.
P.S. Boost controllers are about $15. I got mine from DNA Motoring, $14.99 free shipping. showed up the same day as my gauge.
#9
Its actually not hard mounted as of yet. I do plan on getting pillar gauges as I get further into modding.
I wired the power up to the dimmer switch for now. I ran the wires under the speaker cover, and through one of the speaker mounting clip holes.
Once I get my pillar pod, and my wideband, I plan on running power to my ignition.
The vacuum line for the boost gauge itself is T'd on the line running from the turbo to the intake manifold. It is then run under the intake tube, behind the brake booster and strut tower, then I loosened one of the screws that holds the plastic around the fuse box so I could run the line under the fuse box without pinching the line. then you can just see where it comes out to make its way inside the fender. Getting it back out on the other side by the door was a PAINNNN! Normally you would pinch the line in the door, but I found that if you run the line under the hinge, their is enough padding on the seal that it actually doesn't pinch at all.
Pic comments:
Engine picture is to show that you can easily hide the vacuum line and boost controller.
The paper towel on the oil filler cap is their to help me see if the new cap and gasket fixed the oil leak without making a huge mess. So far so good. All the covers are off because of the leak, and I'm in the process of cleaning.
Also, don't mind the battery acid. Old battery lol.
I wired the power up to the dimmer switch for now. I ran the wires under the speaker cover, and through one of the speaker mounting clip holes.
Once I get my pillar pod, and my wideband, I plan on running power to my ignition.
The vacuum line for the boost gauge itself is T'd on the line running from the turbo to the intake manifold. It is then run under the intake tube, behind the brake booster and strut tower, then I loosened one of the screws that holds the plastic around the fuse box so I could run the line under the fuse box without pinching the line. then you can just see where it comes out to make its way inside the fender. Getting it back out on the other side by the door was a PAINNNN! Normally you would pinch the line in the door, but I found that if you run the line under the hinge, their is enough padding on the seal that it actually doesn't pinch at all.
Pic comments:
Engine picture is to show that you can easily hide the vacuum line and boost controller.
The paper towel on the oil filler cap is their to help me see if the new cap and gasket fixed the oil leak without making a huge mess. So far so good. All the covers are off because of the leak, and I'm in the process of cleaning.
Also, don't mind the battery acid. Old battery lol.
Last edited by Sean Berger; 01-22-2013 at 02:35 PM.
#12
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Sonoma County, California
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When I got my 850 Turbo the waste gate lines were reversed and I had to be very carful or the boost would go to 16+ pressure almost immediately. It made for interesting driving but now that I put it back to stock it is more controllable. I don't want to run high boost on this car but it could be fun on a younger engine.
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