The PCV parts are pretty much dealer or specality like IPD or FCP. You can find a number of parts at NAPA, Oreilly and Autozone.

https://www.ipdusa.com/customer_acco...rMessage=login

https://www.fcpeuro.com/login

 

ok I called all 3 of them and more they have nothing listed said dealer only unless they didnt understand me when i asked for pcv sytembut i will checkaround and se i am gonna have to wait for parts either way gives me time to figure out if the ptc is plugged . since the electrical part of the ptc was disconnected will that haveadded any more variables to consider and I forgot this on the intake tube very short distance after the maf sensor is 2 vacuum line connection spots I only have one of them being used as well i have the one hooked up that is in the middle spot of the tcv port . it looks to me in a diagram pic in the video the rspi sent me to be about changing the pcv system the vacuum line is sticking up in the air unless someone knows about it

 

ok I called all 3 of them and more they have nothing listed said dealer only unless they didnt understand me when i asked for pcv sytem

You called all three of who ?
For the PCV you'd need to go dealer, FCP or IPD. There are a couple more out there but most would be found on line.
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The reference to local auto parts sources is for "other" parts.

 

I was speaking of to the 3 parts stores you mentioned. I am finding some stuff now if i keep pushing or ask for more possible names of the oil catcher. since you have changed theses systems before is there certain lines that need to be replaced ? versus ones that you could say really havent seen some that need to be replaced. damn in eed a diagram of the lines or connectios to be more accurate and so we can all be on the same page here but i think it is safe to say the long one that attaches to the PTC on intake piping that goes to the oil catcher would need to be replaced

 

I was speaking of to the 3 parts stores you mentioned. I am finding some stuff now if i keep pushing or ask for more possible names of the oil catcher. since you have changed theses systems before is there certain lines that need to be replaced ? versus ones that you could say really havent seen some that need to be replaced. damn in eed a diagram of the lines or connectios to be more accurate and so we can all be on the same page here but i think it is safe to say the long one that attaches to the PTC on intake piping that goes to the oil catcher would need to be replaced

 

if i pull off the vacuum line at the ptc connection area of the intake breather tube should there be a good amount of suction from that hose? to try to test some of this in a effort to determine the actual cause of the problem. or does either of you know of any way to trace this and narrow down where and why its not doing its job?

 

What are you saying is not doing it's job?

 

I was just trying to find out if there is a good way to check vacuum at the lines anywhere that would give me solid info on what parts are bad. I have found 3 places that have the entire kits and need to get what is needed soon as the oil is coming out of the seal by the dist. cap and its time to wrap this job up hopefully . thanks frog for the websites to find those kits one place kind of hinted the 2 longest hoses the the oil seperator and the hose that goes back to the head are main things known to have problems. I was trying to determine if its more of a clogged oil separator thing or loss of vacuum that is main reason for failure of the system. I realize i may just have to bite the bullet and get it all but my cash is only flowing one direction at the time and its going in the wrong way.
OK I AM THRU DEBATING THIS N MY MIND I ORDERED A KIT CANT RISK NO CAR IF I wouldn't have all the parts needed for reassembly!!! Also it was brought to my attention when i stumbled into the answer about what parts are normally having problems and it is all having to do with the oil separator/catcher/trap from the sludge and line blockage from nasty oil with no where to escape in a sealed system but there may a method of maintaining the level of nasty oil in the new system that will improve the life of the system but that will have to be checked into more after the parts arrive. THANKS AGAIN TO BOTH OF YOU FOR PUTTIN UP WITH MY STUBBORN METHODS ALL YOUR EFFORTS WERE WHAT MADE THE PROJECT A SUCCESS

 

The way to maintain the system is to change oil on a regular basis and to use a good oil, preferably synthetic.

The way any engine builds up sludge is from lack of maintenance, mainly missed LOFs and a buildup of moisture. If you do more short drives you need to change oil more often than is recommended. If you're checking your oil level with your gas fills you need to pay attention to color and clarity and change it if it starts getting black and cloudy or milky looking.

In your case it's more expensive but better to just pull the whole system out and replace the components and you know your good.

It's NOT a success until you've torn off the intake, cleaned out the holes in the block the black box mounts to and drains through, installed the vacuum hoses and intake and have it running without tossing a new code from something you missed.
You also want to check everything over when you have it apart for brittle vacuum hoses and fittings as this is a perfect time to replace them as some run under the manifold.

 

The kit ,cam seal is to be delivered today when i get it going to go for it .you mentioned cleaning the holes where the oil trap mounts when i have it torn apart.
What is the correct way to clean them?
After reassembly and cam seal replaced oil change will be done but synthetic oil is not a option this change as funds wont allow.
Most of my driving was less than 5 miles at a time so wil keep a close eye on my oil color and not wait till recommended mileage to determine that but with no odometer working on the car isnt any way of keeping track unless i can fix that issue or the selector on the dash to track or get info from the car has a position on it that i can use to keep track of miles since the oil change (guess i could use the trip meter that i normally reset at every fill up on gas would work) and when this current project ends then the next one's can be started.
What would be first to look into for the odometer dials not functioning both the overall miles or trip meter have not worked since i bought the car. Also keep in mind that it had been in a accident before i bought it and front clip was replaced and done by someone else whom i assume was tired of replacing all the needed things and why it was sold to the person i bought it from or maybe who i bought it from bought it from the yard who knows but he told me he was selling it cause no heat and had replaced thermostat still no heat.
I saw that the heater core was bypassed when i test drove the car and it was such a good price and motor ran smoothly had to jump on it. but whom ever was doing the work it was apparent by the stuff left in the trunk that this was a car that been costing someone money and were tired of it reaching into there wallet to do the job right. various engine parts fuses bulbs misc. hand tools sockets etc were scattered all over in trunk it was someone else's project and they had reached the point that it was over for them. My lucky day!!!!!!!

 

There is no tool or procedure for cleaning them out. Use whatever fits to try and scoop out any crud you find in there and push what you can't get out into the engine. The idea is to have the largest opening you can for the oil and vapors to flow freely.

Very common on 850s to have one of the nylon gears on the odometer to loose a tooth or two and quit working. I would suggest replacing both gears so you don't end up having to go back in there in the near future when the other fails.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/odo...ix-how-to.html

850 Odometer Gear (without instructions)

 

This is so confusing my head hurts. What are you resetting every time you gas up?

 

the parts didnt show up so try again today

 

Take your time, we aren't in any hurry

 

no chance to work on it today either but parts showed up. I don't know why one or both of you didn't give me a hard time I was asking things that were answered in the video rspi sent about changing the crankcase vent system.
It turned out good to not work on it today gave me time to review the video but wasn't going to be that bad of a job either way.
rspi i was talking about the selector **** on the right side of the dash that has about 5 different positions that give you different info from mpg. to a trip meter this thing reads in digital what is broken is what everyone used to call a trip meter that is above the actual mileage that are displayed with each number 0 to 9 on the circular dials.
I did take out the air intake to make sure it was open and to peek inside the piping and again there was clear water inside. what I also did was pull the dist. cap and check it . no water and clean and dry no signs of oil leaking yet but haven't drove much. I didn't have it hot enough to do the dip stick test but doesn't matter changing the whole system

 

Good.

Thanks, now I understand.

 

ok well I quit at 10pm enough workin in the dark I have the car tore down to the point of routing the new lines and ready to mount new oil trap but have a couple things to ask and report to you. I believe the system wasnt working because after the intake manifold was removed the broken line was discovered I am not sure where it connects to yet as it was broken because of the heat damage over the length of time it has been in use and as it appears not enough foam wrap at the very end of the line where it connects to what i am trying to figure out but there may be a spot on underside of intake it hooks at ran out of daylight and haven't looked closely into this yet and the other end of this small line goes to hook up at the ptc connection on the intake piping.I have and am going to put more foam around here as I am the son of a heating and air conditioning repairman and new installation father/ plumber/retired dirt track legend with alot of credit to his brother uncle lawrence motor and car builder that was gifted enough to make things look easy for dad winning all his championships. So if I get a answer to that before I get back to work great otherwise i will find it my second thing I am not sure on the very bottom hole where the oil trap goes into the motor there is a short piece with 2 tiny hose clamps between the motor and trap when I took out old trap (that was empty and only had a residue of a yellow color and definately was not plugged from a sludge condition) it just pulled it out by prying on it nothing broke but I am wanting to remove and inspect this piece making sure hole is cleaned out for proper functioning after I am done. the kit came with a small piece that has the correct size to connect to the bottom hole on the trap but unsure if that is what is under the 2 small tiny clamps that are still connected on the motor these are one time use clamp but i have my own to use just trying not to break anything so i am unable to finish the job and wait for parts and have no car both. it may be what is under the clamps is the same part i got with the kit if so then that is not a issue and I can put it all back together. If I was trying to make it on flat rate as a mech. life would be bad but thats why I am here and taking classes from you guys and gonna keep my day job.

 

well the job is done. can I assume that since there was no oil in the old oil trap that I replaced that the vehicle had been getting regular oil changes and kept fluid levels where they needed to be?
I did also replace some other vacuum lines that were showing signs or were brittle hopefully I got them all. AGAIN THANK YOU BOTH SO MUCH YOUR HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!!!!!!! ps Robert I watched your video on the antenna replacement mine isnt broken off but wont go up or down so do I just need to get a new rip cord and replace it?

 

If you can hear the antennas motor run but the mast doesn't extend or retract than it's likely just a mast replacement. The nylon toothed extension to the metal mast is what can break or strip.

There is likely some really good youtube videos but it's midnight so this is the best I can do.

Power Antenna Mast Replacement

 

He seen my video on the antenna mast replacement. Yes you will need to order that part of the antenna. The cord is attached to the metal part of the antenna.

As for the PCV, glad you have it done. Those boxes are not suppose to be clogged but sometimes the ports get blocked. Those lines get brittle, break, and cause the system to not function properly. The car can run rough and get poor gas mileage.