Alright I have a 97 t5 that runs great just has some breaking issues. There is alot of play in the pedal and the car does not stop on a dime. Replace rotors and pads still to no avail. Bled the brakes and it only helped minimally. The speedo has gone out 2 times but came back very quickly and it has never happen again.

Biggest issue is the bulbs for tracs/abs/ and check engine are burned out. First question is; would replacing the ABS improve my braking at all? 2ndly; would a failed abs module trip a check engine light? I just had my car scanned today and the only code pulled was for a bad o2 sensor. Lastly how would I know 100% that my module is bad without replacing the bulbs?

Thanks guys!!

 

Your ABS control module probably has the broken solder joints issue which you can repair yourself or there are many places that can repair just the module for $100 or less; you still need to R&R the module but that's pretty easy.

That should make your abs/tracs light go out (unless you have other abs issue..), and possibly your speedo issue too, but that shouldn't affect your brake pedal travel. Have you bled brakes w/power bleeder like the Motive products one?

 

Contact matt at MidwestABS.com.... He will take care of you with the abs module, under $100 btw...


As far as the pedal height, if your fluid is at all dark make sure you completely replace the fluid then do a solid bleeding, keeping the mstr cyl full as you bleed...
Check the vac line to the booster...
If that doest help,you might want to start looking towards replacing the master cyl ..

 

Thanks guys for all the feedback. I am in contact with midwest abs but I just want to be sure that I need a module. If all it will do is make my abs light/tracs light go off and not change my braking performance I can do with out it. The abs/tracs bulbs are burnt out any way.

As for bleeding the brakes, I did it myself and not with a power bleeder. I am hesitant to pay for either the tool or the service because the system was never opened or exposed to air.

Sorry for my ignorance but what are you referring to when you mention the R/R? Also I was thinking it could be a vac leak from the brake booster hose but have a hard time following where it goes.

Thanks again you guys are AWESOME!

 

R&R is tech shorthand for "remove and replace"; common term in the industry.


If you suspect the brake booster is not working try this:

1. with engine not running press the brake pedal with your foot till resistance is solid and hold your foot there keeping pressure constant.
2. start the engine;
3. if booster is working properly, the pedal will be pulled farther toward the floor.
4. if the booster is not working at all the pedal won't move. Keep in mind you could have a partial vac leak at the booster too.

Pwr bleeders are relatively cheap (about $60) and brake fluid should be completely flushed throughout the system every 3-5 years are part of normal maintenance. Will save you money in the long run. Ever since ABS became common on cars I won't even attempt to bleed brakes w/o one.



Here's one example of what I am talking about:
http://www.amazon.com/Motive-0101-Pr.../dp/B000TYJEWW


Given your symptoms would not be surprised if you need a brake master cyl as Matty said.


Also keep in mind when you change out brake pads the pedal will be a little spongy until the new pads seat in, but shouldn't take too long; 50-100 miles maybe.

 

MidwestABS.com is a dead website.

My mechanic says the module is bad, so looking for good price on replacement

 

Actually the web address is www.MidWest-ABS.com.

 

Looks like they don't do 1995. What is it about the 1995 that gets it ignored?

 

The '95's do NOT have an ABS module like the '96+ does. It has a ECU box near the brake booster. You can get one of those from a salvage yard if you think that's the problem. If you don't have access to a jy, let me know and I can likely get one for you.

 

My mechanic says its the ABS Module.

The label says
Ate
Controller
10.0941-0411-4
3X3 770
9401542
CONTROL-UNIT-ABS/BTCS
6840

I have removed the cover & taken off the internal torx screws & the two on the side edge by the connector.

So there must be a way to loosen the internal pins from the back of the connector in order to wiggle the board assembly out of the metal case?

 

All the posts on various Volvo boards that say the ABS module was designed to fail -- does that only apply to 1996 & later?

Nevertheless, the OEM part is over $700 and a refurb about half that.

So I'd like to try fixing it myself.

And what is the proper sealant for the cover plate? Acetic acid based caulks are bad for the board.

 

If you braking isn't as firm as you think it should be, it's probably not the ABS module having any affect. If it were kicking in, you'd feel feedback from the pedal and hear a 'bumpbumpbump' noise as it applied and released the pads, but this only happens in bad conditions – deep snow, hard rain, violent stomping of the brakes, etc.

When you say you bled the brakes, did you drain just a little from each wheel or did you replace all of the fluid in the system? Brake fluid is hydroscopic, which is another way to say that a fluid absorbs water. Over the years, brake fluid will break down from heat, absorb water and collect contaminants. It’s recommended that it be replaced every three or four years for a solid system.

I highly recommend the Motive Power Bleeder to get the job done if you’re all alone or don’t want to spend more than 15 minutes doing it. If you’re in the Chicagoland area, you can borrow mine.

 

Appreciate all the positive advice I have been getting and just wanted to take time to thank everyone on this board especially all the veterans around these parts. Going to take my car in and get the brakes bled and fluid flushed. I may be over reacting but to all the Volvo owners out there I have a question:


Generally speaking are 94-98 Volvos specifically known to have less than desirable breaking performance? I am talking in comparison to a similar aged & trim car would you guys consider your volvo's breaking as greater than, less than, or the same?


Personally, going from a 1997 civic, and 1996 ford 250 Powerstroke Truck this car has the worse breaking of the three. I know it is tough to compare since a civic is much lighter, and my truck is a completely different animal, but would think the difference wouldn't be as significant as it is. Especially since I put new rotors and pads in the front and did not see much of an improvement. I am starting to think the issue is with the booster or calipers not getting the piston out far enough. I trip a CEL for vacuum leak which could be from the Booster , but can not find where it would be leaking from since there is so much **** in the way under the hood.

Thanks in advance!!!

 

I too think you may have a brake booster problem. From my experience these cars' brakes are more than adequate and better than most other cars.

You need to figure out what the problem is and get it fixed... if you had bought a pwr bleeder for about $50 you could do this yourself. Brake fluid flush should be done every 3 years or so anyway, so this would not be a one-time process, but rather a tool investment.

The 1995 MY did not have the broken solder joint issue like the later models.

 

I think a leak in the brake booster will not trigger a CEL, so that may be your issue.