Hey Guys,

Basically I'm going to pick up a '93 Volvo 850 GLT Estate tommorrow and was wondering if anyone had any advice on what I should be looking out for? I've had a test drive, and everything I can see seems ok, but I'm no expert. The car has a full service history, and everything seemingly checks out.

I just want to make sure I'm not being ripped off here!

Any help would be much appreciated, can't wait to join the Volvo club!

Cheers,
Daz.

 

Having the service history is good. Talk to the previous owner if possible (if you are buying off a lot). You didn't say how many miles, options and price. If everything seems OK and the price is within http://www.nada.com or http://www.kellybluebook.com ranges then I think you will be OK. Let us know some of the particulars and we can better answer your questions.

 

Sorry, ok, it's done 136k miles... Not sure what options I should be looking out for? It doesn't have the 7-seater conversion, but does have heated seats! (If that's an option!). I'm buying in the UK, so not sure how that relates, but it's equivalent to $1,500 US dollars.

 

Well the GLT was the top trim level so heated seats, mirrors, premium sound system, leather, etc. would be standard. About the only options I can think of are the trip computer and power moon roof. Are there any rust problems with the body or frame? Does it use any oil? How about the suspension, steering, etc.? To be honest, based on the NADA & Kelly prices, it almost sounds too good a price. However, if everything checks out, then I would probably go ahead and purchase.

 

Make sure the timing belt has been changed recently. It's due every 70,000 miles or five years whichever comes first. That seems like a real good price for a car in even decent shape. It is the first year for the 850 though, and it has not held it's value all that well. Especially the non-turbo models which this one is. The turbo was not made until 94, at least in the US.

If it was me,I would have an independent Volvo mechanic or Volvo dealer check it out before purchase. It's money well spent especially if you buy it. And if they find something really wrong and you don't buy it, it's even better money spent.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

The only rust seems very cosmetic, and just on the surface above the wheel arch. Nothing Serious.

I will make sure the timing belt has been changed. Thanks! I will also ask about the Oil, and hope for an honest answer!

The log-book has a full service history though, and all of it at a local Volvo dealer. So I expect everything to have been changed when neccessary. I would hope so at least. (It is up for a service now though, which is a slight concern.)

I think UK prices may be a little less than over in the states, as the price wasn't a shock. I've been looking around for a while now!

Thanks again for your help,
Daz.

ps. It has a trip computer, and sunroof!

 

FYI, I have a '93 GLT which I paid $1800 for in March of 2005. The car does have a sunroof, but does not have the computer. It had about 218,000 miles on the clock at the time - 80k on a rebuilt engine. I've put money into it, but there's been a lot that I didn't need to do and/or I put higher end components than OEM. I absolutely LOVE the car, but do wish that I had a turbo model...

 

I agree that you should look into a Turbo model. If the price is close to the same, buy the turbo. They are just much more fun to drive and they last just as long. I have never had a problem with any of my Volvo Turbo's and we have a history of about 10 of them between me, my kids and my in laws.

 

Hello mate,

Greetings from Narita, Japan.

If I remember correctly, the timing belt on '93 model has to be replaced at every 60,000 miles (96,000kms) due to narrower belt width, unless the UK model has different service intervals. Also, I would visually check the condition of coolant & transmission fluid (automatic). Coolant should be clear emerald green (unless someone used different coloured fluid; there are green ,red, blue and even yellow coolant available), and the transmission fluid should be clear red and should not have any burnt smell. If not done, I would check to see if the brake fluid has been replaced, which is way too often neglected (should be replaced at every 2-3 years).

The following thread shouldclarify most of the basic maintenance questions.
https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm

>Any help would be much appreciated, can't wait to join the Volvo club!
Welcome to the Dark Side


JPN

 

Hey,

Well, bought the car..! Everything seemed to be in order, and it's run well so far. Have done around 100 miles already. (Needs 2 tyre's changed though!)

Thanks again for the advice! The cam belt was changed after 80,000 miles, good news.

Anyway, am looking to do an oil change and oil filter change, but am unsure where I can find the correct part numbers. Could anyone point me in the right direction? Some instructions as to how it's done would be good too!

Thanks guys!
Daz.

 

You should use either OEM or Mann oil filters. Mann makes the OEM ones, and they are cheaper. You can get them at fcpgroton, but not sure about shipping to UK. Since I have three cars that all use the same filter, I buy a case of 12 at at a time.

Pretty easy to change oil. Jack up car, put oil pan under car,remove drain plug,take off oil filter, at this point I lower the car onto the pan, jack car back up, put in drain plug with new crush washer, clean the area around the filter, wet the seal on the new filter with oil, instal new filter finger tight then about a 1/4 turn with an oil filter wrench, lower car and add new oil. I change my air filter, with OEM, about every 3rd oil change and change my oil every 3-4,000 miles. All three need an oil change right now.

 

Awesome, thanks for the response. Can I just ask, what do you use to jack up your car? Jacks, or a ramp? just looking at the clearance and it doesn't seem huge.

Oh, and regarding the previous posts, I did check the brake and coolant fluid. The coolant was green with what seemed to be a red tinge. It was see-through, but not totally. The brake fluid was the same, but a yellowish colour. Sounds ok right?

All the levels seem fine. In fact, everything has a well looked after feel to it!

Thanks again,
Daz.

 

Found this place for parts, seems good: http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/.

 

Hello mate,

FCP Groton:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo.htm#850

And their overseas shipping policy:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/shipping.htm

When I install oil filter, I only do it hand-tight unless if there is a leak after replacement. Then, I would give it another 1/16 of a turn with filter wrench. As to the crush washer, aluminum washer is recommended. When I did mine, I followed the torque in the service manual, but there was a small leak so I gave it another1/8 turn or so.

To jack up the front-end, a hydraulic floor jack would be the best. It should be lifted at the subframe, and I would place something between the jack pad & the subframe to avoid damage. A piece of wood works well, or you could use a thick hard rubber sheet. A pair of jackstands are imperative too, and I would stay away from cheapo that are made in, well, you know what I mean.

Coolant & brake fluid sound ok.

I guess you're good to go.

Come back if you have other questions or new problems arise.

Cheers,


JPN

 

Ok, got some new tyres on the beast today, and had the tracking sorted. It was some way out.

I just have one more question, only a minor ****le for me but still. Basically, the clutch is quite high, which is fine, but does that suggest the cable is stretching too much? Shouldn't they auto adjust? Secondly, the accelorator is really sticky, something I'm getting quite used to, but if there is a simple fix I'll do it right away!

I plan to do all the work next week, apparently my friend has some ramps I can borrow to get to the underside of the car.

Cheers,
Daz.

 

Ok, glad to hear that the beast is becoming a beauty.

As to the hydro clutch, there is no adjustment according to the factory manual. Also, the pedal travel is specified at 5.08 inches or 129.2mm. There should be no cable, as it is a hydraulically-operated clutch (but I could be wrong, so visually trace the clutch line). Simply check on the fluid level; it may share the same reservoir as the brakes but double check.

As to the stickypetro pedal, you could try following:

1. Clean & lubricate the pedal pivot points.
2. Clean & lubricate the throttle cable-driven components.
3. Clean the inside of the throttle body with throttle body (carburetor) cleaner spray & tooth brush. Be sure to choose one that is safe for O2 sensor & catalytic converter.
4. Exercise and beef up yourright foot[8D].

Be sure to keep safety in mind. When the car is on the ramp, apply parking brake fully and chock the wheels, then try shaking the car to verify that it is solidly secured on the ramp.

I hope this helps.

Cheers,


JPN

 

I had a really sticky petro pedal (is it really called that?) and just used WD40 on the pedal mechanism and on the cable area under the hood. Sticking went away just from doing that. It was only sticking when the weather was cold though, so I have see what will happen next winter.

 

Hi Jim,

I made up the word "petro pedal". I worked for British Airways at O'Hare and got some influence on my English. People there refereed to gasoline as "petro", so I tried to be fancy[8D].

You can also try "petro station", "petro guzzling", etc...


JPN

 

Hey guys, just did 700 miles no problem. Had to drive to the south of England and back.

Just have a quick question, when I do all the changes, how do I turn off the service light?

Thanks,
Daz.

 

I'm not sure on a 93. For 95-98 you have to take it to a dealer, or take the frigging bulb out.