After changing alternator my 850 doest run
1994 2.4
So my alternator went out and i replaced it, after that it started to run badly. It felt like it had some air intake leak (tried to find it with no results) and it runned pretty rich and it didnt want to find a good idling (bouncing from 500-1500rpm), it sometimes found it about 600-700rpm but it sounded off, usually it just turned itself off. So i asked some friends and finnish forums what would be the problem and many said that i might have broke the temperature sensor or the connector of it. So i changed it too and now my car doesnt even start. Im pretty much out of ideas that what i did wrong here. The alternator works so that is not the problem (maybe).
So my alternator went out and i replaced it, after that it started to run badly. It felt like it had some air intake leak (tried to find it with no results) and it runned pretty rich and it didnt want to find a good idling (bouncing from 500-1500rpm), it sometimes found it about 600-700rpm but it sounded off, usually it just turned itself off. So i asked some friends and finnish forums what would be the problem and many said that i might have broke the temperature sensor or the connector of it. So i changed it too and now my car doesnt even start. Im pretty much out of ideas that what i did wrong here. The alternator works so that is not the problem (maybe).
ECT sensors vary their resistance from high when cold to low when hot. If you damaged a connector to the ECT and created an open circuit. The ECU will think the engine is cold and will enrich the mixture. If you created a short, the ECU will think the engine is hot and lean out the mix. So what does the engine do when you try to start? For a no start, I'd say go back to basics - ie got spark? got fuel? Even if the cold start mixture is off, I'd think you'd get some fire. To check for spark you can use a strobe or similar tool or pop a wire and attach to a grounded plug. To check for fuel you can check for pressure at the rail (there's a schrader valve on the end of the rail - look for something in the 40 PSI range. If low you can jumper the fuel pump relay to engage the fuel pump to build up the pressure. After that you can see if you get a pulse at an injector. Check for some Youtube vids on the how to's for these tests. BTW, what is the system voltage (measure at the battery engine off, then measure when cranking). Its possible your alternator fail took out the battery or even took out a protective fuse so check those as well. What happens if you try to start with a jump? My thinking is, if the system voltage drops below 12V, the ECU will be unhappy and that may cause a no start - not to mention you may get a happy meal of OBD fault codes. Good news is the 94s have the diagnostic port so you don't need (can't use?) an OBD2 code reader.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hilton harvey
Volvo C30
2
Jun 2, 2021 11:49 AM



