Air conditioning is not working correctly
Now this is really strange. If I press the brakes, the compressor disengages.
For example:
- I start the car, engine is cold.
- Tranny in neutral
- Parking break is on
- I switch on the A/C, air is nice and cold.
- The driver´s window is open so I can hear the compressor
- If I press the brakes, the compressor stops working.
- If I release the brakes, the compressor starts working again.
Same thing happens if I press the brakes for a stop light, a curve or a speed bump.
This does not sound like normal behavior. There must be a Gremlin inside the engine cabin eating wires, lol.
For example:
- I start the car, engine is cold.
- Tranny in neutral
- Parking break is on
- I switch on the A/C, air is nice and cold.
- The driver´s window is open so I can hear the compressor
- If I press the brakes, the compressor stops working.
- If I release the brakes, the compressor starts working again.
Same thing happens if I press the brakes for a stop light, a curve or a speed bump.
This does not sound like normal behavior. There must be a Gremlin inside the engine cabin eating wires, lol.
He split the signal coming from the low pressure sensor to the ECU and connected that wire to the aux relay. He also changed the low speed ground input signal on the fan relay so it would take input from the new relay. Nothing else.
Maybe there is an electrical problem generated by the brake lights. The rear fog light fuse is blown, and very frequently I get the yellow lamp indicator on the instrument cluster. Gotta check out the wiring thoroughly. Maybe something is affecting the compressor relay in the glove compartment.
Maybe there is an electrical problem generated by the brake lights. The rear fog light fuse is blown, and very frequently I get the yellow lamp indicator on the instrument cluster. Gotta check out the wiring thoroughly. Maybe something is affecting the compressor relay in the glove compartment.
Maybe the way he tapped it in is making the computer think when on the brakes you are actually at full throttle and that is why it is kicking off.
Just a theory but still cannot see how they are related.
Just a theory but still cannot see how they are related.
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My 96 850 did the same thing. Caught a thread on checking to see if the magnet clutch is pulling the clutch to the compressor drive all the time. With ac on and set at lowest temp. setting, and clutch spinning, take a broom stick( careful of fan blade) and push lightly against the face plate of the compressor. If the face plate jumps in and clutch starts driving compressor, then there is too much clearance between the compressor drive and clutch plate for the magnet to pull the two togather.. There is a simple fix that worked for me now well over a year. Working from underneath, check the gap between clutch and compressor drive wheel. should be 20/1000 inch or less. I pryed up the tabs on the clutch plate(4) cleaned under each well with soap/water. blew dry, and then using epoxy, I placed a small piece of 30/000 inch thick formica under each tab, finished side towards tab, rough side down with small amount of epoxy on it (don't get the epoxy on the tab side.) This put my gap well under 20/000 and the fix works fine. Beats removing the compresssor and tearing apart. Took me about 1 hour for this fix at essentially 0 cost.
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volvoguy2323
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
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Jun 24, 2010 03:10 PM




