Almost Time To Replace The Timing Belt
#1
Almost Time To Replace The Timing Belt
Hey guys...I've got about 5,000 more miles until my timing belt is due on my 850. I'm starting to look at kits and was wondering which ones you guys have gone with. I'm looking at the 2 on FCP Groton's site, the genuine Volvo kit ($485) and the aftermarket kit ($299). Has anyone used the aftermarket one? If so, have you had any problems with the parts failing prematurely? For most other parts, I've paid a little extra to get the genuine Volvo but, in this case, it's an extra $185. I plan on keeping this car until the wheels fall off and really don't want to have to do this job again anytime soon (not looking forward to it doing now).
Thanx, as always, for any advice.
Thanx, as always, for any advice.
#2
I went aftermarket with mine - all good quality stuff. Doing it is time consuming, but not overly difficult from a mechanical standpoint. I assume you're getting the kit with the water pump, right? If I remember right, the kit was pretty comprehensive - it came with cam seals, crank seal, etc, and serp belt.
I've been running it in my car since last October and have had no issues. Tech has told me in the past that the Hepu water pump is VERY good in quality, and what they use at the dealership a lot of the time.
I've been running it in my car since last October and have had no issues. Tech has told me in the past that the Hepu water pump is VERY good in quality, and what they use at the dealership a lot of the time.
#3
I may have been sucked into the shiny blue color and the words "High Proformance" But I bought the HP kit... This one --->Volvo High Performance Timing Belt Tensioner Kit (Minor) - TBKIT252RB | FCPEuro.com
#4
I went aftermarket with mine - all good quality stuff. Doing it is time consuming, but not overly difficult from a mechanical standpoint. I assume you're getting the kit with the water pump, right? If I remember right, the kit was pretty comprehensive - it came with cam seals, crank seal, etc, and serp belt.
I've been running it in my car since last October and have had no issues. Tech has told me in the past that the Hepu water pump is VERY good in quality, and what they use at the dealership a lot of the time.
I've been running it in my car since last October and have had no issues. Tech has told me in the past that the Hepu water pump is VERY good in quality, and what they use at the dealership a lot of the time.
Volvo (850 Non Turbo) Timing Belt and Water Pump Kit
#5
I may have been sucked into the shiny blue color and the words "High Proformance" But I bought the HP kit... This one --->Volvo High Performance Timing Belt Tensioner Kit (Minor) - TBKIT252RB | FCPEuro.com
Unfortunately, I don't have a turbo so, I think the plain 'ol timing belt is fine for mine as she unleashes her 168HP of Swedish fury.
#6
I may have been sucked into the shiny blue color and the words "High Proformance" But I bought the HP kit... This one --->Volvo High Performance Timing Belt Tensioner Kit (Minor) - TBKIT252RB | FCPEuro.com
Question about this topic; If the car does not overheat would one need to replace the water pump when the timing belt is done? Or is it just preventive maintenance?
#7
Question about this topic; If the car does not overheat would one need to replace the water pump when the timing belt is done? Or is it just preventive maintenance?[/quote]
Since it appears to be pretty labor intensive (haven't done one yet), it's one of those things you might as well replace while you're in there. From my understanding, the rule of thumb (anybody correct me if I'm wrong) is to replace the water pump everyother timing belt change.
Since it appears to be pretty labor intensive (haven't done one yet), it's one of those things you might as well replace while you're in there. From my understanding, the rule of thumb (anybody correct me if I'm wrong) is to replace the water pump everyother timing belt change.
#10
That kit looks good.
#11
#12
"Every other TB" is the recommended interval for the WP. But obviously it ain't hurting anything. If anything, a coolant change-over is still a benefit.
#13
I know I have typed this at least 10 times and nobody asked me to do it again so everyone can skip this post...
I do NOT change water pumps unless they are 1. Leaking, 2. have over 200,000 miles on them, 3. are over 15 years old.
Also, Change the belt, idler roller, tensioner roller, and tensioner if they were not changed last time or they are 10 years old.
Question: Why would anyone replace a cam or crank seal if they are not leaking? The deeper you dig the more problems you run into or cause.
I do NOT change water pumps unless they are 1. Leaking, 2. have over 200,000 miles on them, 3. are over 15 years old.
Also, Change the belt, idler roller, tensioner roller, and tensioner if they were not changed last time or they are 10 years old.
Question: Why would anyone replace a cam or crank seal if they are not leaking? The deeper you dig the more problems you run into or cause.
#14
In 25+ years of driving Volvos I have NEVER had a water pump go bad on me. At 221K I did change one though for the 1st time. Nothing wrong with the one that came off either. Just figured 221K is a good time to replace it. I see no reason to change it every time you do the belt, maybe every other time though. I put the Hepu water pump on mine. Everything else I got was OEM though.
Last edited by rspi; 06-23-2011 at 06:32 AM. Reason: typo
#15
In 25+ years of driving Volvos I have NEVER had a water pump go bad on me. At 221K I did change one though for the 1st time. Nothing wrong with the one that came off either. Just figured 221K is a good time to replace it. I see not reason to change dit every time you do the belt, maybe every other time though. I put the Hepu water pump on mine. Everything else I got was OEM though.
#16
When I had my first Volvo, a 760 Turbo Diesel, I did not work on it myself and I think the mechanic that worked on it did change the Water Pump when he did the Timing Belt. But that was a long time ago and I can't remember back that far. My understanding that 850's very rarely need a new water pump though. That's what the independent Volvo mechanic here in town has told me.
#17
850 NA 175K Will do a T belt soon (and a pump cause I don't know the history) but I have a different question... With all I have read about this job, I am wondering, do you remove the spark plugs to make turning the crank easier or not? Or is that a dumb question? I would think you do but never saw it mentioned. Or does it make it to easy to screw up the timing? P.S. I thank everybody on this forum for all the help and knowledge I have received since I joined it around last Oct. You're the best!!!
#18
If you can see the mark on the crank there is no need to take out plugs. That's a big IF though. I could never see it, but my eyesight is not that good.
With the old belt on, you can just line up your cam marks. At that point you are either at TDC or 180 degrees off. Make marks at this point and then put the new belt on and use these marks to align. Make sure you turn it over manually a few times to make sure nothing is hitting.
With the old belt on, you can just line up your cam marks. At that point you are either at TDC or 180 degrees off. Make marks at this point and then put the new belt on and use these marks to align. Make sure you turn it over manually a few times to make sure nothing is hitting.
#19
If you can see the mark on the crank there is no need to take out plugs. That's a big IF though. I could never see it, but my eyesight is not that good.
With the old belt on, you can just line up your cam marks. At that point you are either at TDC or 180 degrees off. Make marks at this point and then put the new belt on and use these marks to align. Make sure you turn it over manually a few times to make sure nothing is hitting.
With the old belt on, you can just line up your cam marks. At that point you are either at TDC or 180 degrees off. Make marks at this point and then put the new belt on and use these marks to align. Make sure you turn it over manually a few times to make sure nothing is hitting.
#20
Thanks for the reply JimKW, I totally understand about the marks. I was referring to how difficult, or how easy, it is to turn the crank by hand to get the timing marks to line up, and then to rotate it a couple of times after the TB is installed to make sure they still line up. I would think that with the spark plugs installed it would be difficult to turn the crank due to the compression with the plugs still installed. It seems to me it would much easier to rotate the crank if the plugs were removed. BUT.....would it make it to easy to screw up the timing without the plugs because the crank could turn so easily, there would be no compression to hold it in place...so to speak? Hope that's clear, whatdoyathink?