So i've decided to go with the ARD green tune after communicating with Lucky and doing a bit of research. My car is stock w/170k miles, it just had a tune-up and new trans fluid put in.

Are there any other supporting mods that I should go with to accompany this tune? Lucky insisted that none were really needed but I thought I'd throw out a line to see what you guys say. I was thinking of doing a boost gauge, and maybe a wideband O2 setup. Or what about a BOV?

Should I worry about having higher miles and putting the extra boost stresss on the engine? Also I have an oil leak(rear main I believe) it will be getting fixed soon, but should I wait until it's fixed to slap the ECU on? Thanks guys

 

Save yourself a few bucks and do what Lucky says. You can always toss a few bucks at it but it will likely not matter.

 

If/when I get an 850, I'll be tuning through Lucky as well. He tuned my S60R and I love it, great guy to deal with too. I don't recall from my previous ownership but can you do a BOV on these cars without many implications? Not many have done them on the S60 because of how rich it makes the car run when you get back on the throttle.

 

Slap in the ecu. Get a proper boost gauge (I got a sunpro, good enough).

Car will feel like a rocket. Keep watching the oil level a few times a wk, add accordingly.

Keep in mind you have an old car, any and all old parts will fail. Get ready to replace a bunch of stuff within the next year after the remap...my personal experience.

The car can handle the power no problem, the 16 yr old rubber oil lines and all other old parts won't.

2 years and 7k later in maintenance and mods later here I am.

Enjoy the ride, not all that bad.

This is mine a wk after the remap, all else stock. This run cracked my hotside:

 

A wideband is not needed unless you're pushing more than 18lbs on a 19t or bigger.

A bov is unnecessary.

 

I do drive hard though, and maintain it harder.

Mods are 16lb green tune,16T,2.5"cat back. No quicker than a 15G and green tune.

 

Until you really start modifying and have stronger connecting rods in the engine and a much bigger turbo a BOV is just for show.

I'd recommend better exhaust. It's always an improvement no matter what and in the future should you want to go bigger on turbo you're already set.

After that it's a never ending slippery slope of better stock or aftermarket parts depending on your budget and goal.

What is it you'd like to do with it ?

 

What is the "hot side"?

I would have expected the tach to be in the red above 140 mph.

 

On a turbo you have the intake side and the exhaust side (hot side).

Not sure on stock tires what the red line speed would be ?? I know it's above 120mph.

 

The hot side is the turbine housing. The darker side of the turbo is the hot side.

The shiny side is the compressor housing a.k.a cold side.

ARD's tuning is so sweet that at 145mph, it drops the engine speed from 5300rpm down to 5000rpm keeping the engine in peak power.

Thus moving me along to 156mph @5300rpm, essentially top speed.

Peak power is at 5280rpm according to the owner's manual. Over the years of spirited closed course vmax cruising, my experience is to keep rpms between 4000-5300. Any lower or higher and the power is nowhere to be found.

According to my GPS, my speedo is 4-5mph optimistic.
Be safe and enjoy the ride.

 

Am I the only one that this doesn't make sense to?

 

One of my bucket list items is to run in the BBORR. I would not qualify over 140 mph but would likely do it just to experience it. A lot of stuff has to be right on your car to cruise over 110 IMO.

 

I'll be your navigator!

 

Thanks for all the replies guys.

I guess I'll just pop the green ECU in and be prepared to fix the things that want to start to going, lol. Boost gauge sounds like a plan too, being as it's a pretty inexpensive deal. I plan on doing silicone hoses all the way around(rad, inter, turbo?) and I'll hold off on the BOV and exhaust for a while.. okay well maybe just a bit

My main goal for this car at the moment is a very easy to drive, reliable, but quick and well handling daily driver. I want to keep the auto as long as I can, as I just got rid of my civic 5 speed, I'm simply sick of commuting a damn manual trans.

Jumping the gun a little- What is the next ideal upgrade to keep this car DD-able? 18T turbo? Green Injectors? Black tune w/E85? Trans cooler? Like I said, I want to be able to retain the auto, and keep it user-friendly.

 

Ordered the green. Along with an autometer boost gauge and lotek single pod.

I also just picked up a turboXS BOV for $60 that will be put on at some point.

I want to know what my next "bang for the buck mod" should be. I was thinking of just putting on a lower mileage 16T, I found a junkyard locally that sells them for $190. Would an "R" manifold be worth the money? The manifold will be off anyway for the turbo swap. Then I know for sure the OBX exhaust will be coming soon, just cat-back will be put on for now.

 

If you're planning on going to a bigger turbo you should start considering replacing the connecting rods. There is no bang for your buck in this but there is no "BANG" that costs you an engine and a lot of down time.

Have you already replaced all the rubber ?? Both cooling and vacuum, if not now would be a good time to consider silicone for at least the vacuum lines and new coolant lines everywhere. Again not any bang for your buck just more insurance against disaster. With the silicone vac hoses I think you have better turbo control than the old worn rubber ones. Just my opinion.

I was getting ready to order some from this suggested site:https://www.siliconeintakes.com/chec...b94109acec035b

It's 4mm for the turbo vacuum control lines.

 

Rods? I've heard people say the stock rods are good for 400bhp

I already have silicone vacuum lines, coolant is next

 

Since you're getting a tune from Lucky at ARD I'd ask him at what point it would be a good idea to beef up the bottom end. It's never a bad idea it's just something you want to do before you have an "Opps".

The ARD has better control and it's usually a bigger turbo coming on too soon that bends or brakes rods. There are people who warn about 19s being a problem with rods and guys running 19s with no trouble. I believe the heavier the foot the more bulletproof you need the build the entire engine.

 

The rods are good for 400 but can be bent at 200 if the tune is not right or something goes wrong and you detonate. You cannot just assume the rods will hold, it all depends on how the car is driven. So really its a crap-shoot. Lucky will not say you'll be fine, he wont. Any time you modify your engine you run the risk of damage. When you buy anything from ARD you will find a nice letter inside that states your modifying your engine and with that comes risk.

 

Then we're back to it would be a good idea if you plan on going with a bigger turbo and more modifications to do the rods sooner than later. The down side is it won't give you any seat of the pants power increase but it will save you from having a nightmare. More so if you have a heavy foot.