argh- 132 low battery voltage
#1
argh- 132 low battery voltage
i've been looking because i hate it when people ask a question without looking, but i can't seem to find what i am looking for. So, i bought an 850 wagon for 1900 heater core is busted i assume that's why the floor is wet and the left front axle is crackin bad. none of that is what i'm worried about i've seen posts by tech and i'm sure i could change those. what i'm worried about is the car is stalling out, sometimes while i'm driving usually just jerks a coulple of times(like it loses power). if i just push the gas lightly for a few then let off it will stall. i plan to go get it looked at but right now i can't really go so i figured i would ask and see if anyone might have a clue thanks in advance for any advice.
josh
josh
#2
RE: argh
Hi Josh,
Welcome to the forum, and thanks for looking.
Situations similar to yours have beenreported often, and in many instances the problem was due to faulty MAF sensor or poor connections to it. However, the car may need more than just theMAF sensor, and the firstthing we would try is to see if there's a trouble code stored in the ECU. This eliminates the need for unnecessary replacement of sensors/parts. Specify the vehicle year so we can guide you to the right place. Did the car come with full service records? If not, the car could have been neglected too. Also, if the timing belthas not been serviced within the last 70,000 miles or 5 years, I would do it ASAP, along with pulleys & hydraulic tensioner.
Wait to hear from other members as well.
JPN
Welcome to the forum, and thanks for looking.
Situations similar to yours have beenreported often, and in many instances the problem was due to faulty MAF sensor or poor connections to it. However, the car may need more than just theMAF sensor, and the firstthing we would try is to see if there's a trouble code stored in the ECU. This eliminates the need for unnecessary replacement of sensors/parts. Specify the vehicle year so we can guide you to the right place. Did the car come with full service records? If not, the car could have been neglected too. Also, if the timing belthas not been serviced within the last 70,000 miles or 5 years, I would do it ASAP, along with pulleys & hydraulic tensioner.
Wait to hear from other members as well.
JPN
#8
#9
RE: argh
No it wouldn't; once the engine starts the electrical energy is supplied by the alternator. Only under certain circumstances the battery comes in to compensate for large electrical loads but that is rather unusual (driving on a rainy day at night, in a congested traffic is one where you're using multiple high-load devices).
If the car can be driven, I would visit a local AutoZone and have them diagnose with their OBD-II scanner; it's free.
Stalling problem is usually caused by one or more of the following on 850s:
- Fuel pump or pump relay.
- Faulty MAF sensor.
- Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor.
- Vacuum leak.
- Dirty throttle body.
- Neglected tune-up.
- Other faulty electrical/electronic devices or poor connections.
Wait to hearwhat others have to say on this. BTW, did youerase the code?
JPN
If the car can be driven, I would visit a local AutoZone and have them diagnose with their OBD-II scanner; it's free.
Stalling problem is usually caused by one or more of the following on 850s:
- Fuel pump or pump relay.
- Faulty MAF sensor.
- Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor.
- Vacuum leak.
- Dirty throttle body.
- Neglected tune-up.
- Other faulty electrical/electronic devices or poor connections.
Wait to hearwhat others have to say on this. BTW, did youerase the code?
JPN
#10
#12
RE: argh
See attachments for code clearing procedure. Once you've cleared the code, see if the same code comes back. Also, 1-3-2 is either LOW or HIGH voltage. If the latter was the case, the voltage regulator in the alternator may be shot, in such case it may have done some damage to electrical/electronic systems. Connect a digital multimeter across the battery with the engine running at idle. Then depress on the gas pedal, increase the RPM to 2,000-3,000 RPM to see if the voltage stabilises at 13.X~14.X volts. If it keeps shooting past 14 some volts, the voltage regulator has retired.
JPN
[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/94AC460CE2A84B9993BF053872456A16.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/C671D4FF122344A9A729863F032BDECC.jpg[/IMG]
JPN
[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/94AC460CE2A84B9993BF053872456A16.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/C671D4FF122344A9A729863F032BDECC.jpg[/IMG]
#13
RE: argh
ORIGINAL: JimKW
I didn't think the 94's had ODB-II?
I didn't think the 94's had ODB-II?
I was shocked when I saw it as well.
To clear the codes after you have read all the codes hold the button down for 10 seconds then wait for the led to come back on when it does then hold it 10 seconds again then it should clear the codes.
Sometimes it takes more than once to get them cleared.
#14
RE: argh
Hi Jim, certain '94 models do have OBD-II. My 850 was '94 Turbo T5 (Engine:B5234T) and it did have one. OBD-II officially did not come out until '96 but some cars came withit a bit earlier. Info2x said he did not have one in his '94, but I'm not sure if it was a turbo or NA. Those '94 & '95 that came with OBD-II have label on the pax-side strut tower that states "This car is certified for OBD-II blah blah".
JPN
JPN
#15
#16
#18
#20