My dad was driving the Volvo recently when all of a sudden the car died at the stop light. He got it started again, but all the dash lights turned on. He turned around and took the car home and parked it... Does this sound like an alternator gone bad? Any tips/info I need to know about when removing/replacing the alternator? I've never done it on tje Volvo. I'll be looking at the car this weekend.

 

That would be my guess. If you have a obd tool you can hook that up and read the live data.

The only special tool you'll need is to remove the tension off the serpentine belt tensioner.

BTW, aren't you a little old to be street fighting? LOL

 

K cool. Thanks rspi. & cmon man im still a young 39 lol!

 

These alternators aren't as cheap as i thought. Any suggestions ordering online vs. the local auto parts stores?

 

nope, order online, get an oem one, get the core refund shortly thereafter and call it a day for another 100k.

RSPi, the quote is epic mang!

 

The other thing to check is the positive side of the battery connection. You'll notice it has nuts on both sides. If you tighten one side it doesn't tighten the other side. I found this out the hard way with the side that has a red wire smaller than the main cable attached. It was loose from me taking the battery out and charging it and it died on me. Took a while to figure it out. One side tightens the battery clamp, the other side just tightens the minor positive leads at the clamp.

Or go with a parts store remanufactured which would be a Bosch part with a lifetime warranty and you get your core $$ back as soon as you plop your old one on the counter. Better yet, pull yours and have them test it to make sure it's bad. Call ahead and have one ordered (likely they won't have it on hand) so it will be there when you bring yours in.

I bought one at Oreilly and it was a Bosch which is the OEM one for a Volvo. They will need to change over your pulley as the new one normally doesn't come with one. I'd take the battery in too to have it tested, it's free and it covers your bases.

I have a spare new remanufactured Bosch alt for sale if you're close? It's the one in the first picture.

 

Opps, I see you're in California. Shipping would eat the savings.

 

I'd check cars in the local jy, you'd be surprised as to how many of those cars have newish parts on them. Not sure how CA is with that, legal may say don't pull parts it's not safe. Then on the other hand they'll say, recycle old parts to save the enviormant. Can't make up their minds. LOL

@ VMax: LOL, you're a mess.

 

So how easy would it be to swap pulleys?

Any special pulley tool i'd need to get if i'm replacing an alternator, or just unbolt the pulley with a socket and ratchet?

 

If you buy it from a local parts store they switch it for you. If you order on line you could still take it in to an Oreillys, autozone, NAPA or ..... and ask them to switch it over for you. Some of the imports don't come with a pulley so most auto parts stores have an electric impact they use to remove and replace the pulley and nut.
I've used my own air impact gun to swap them. It may sound harsh but it works and I've never know it to cause a problem with the alternator.

 

I'm getting the one from fcp, it does not say that it does not come with a pulley anywhere in the product description.

Illustration pic shows a pulleyed alternator...

 

My nephew has a new alternator from my sister's previous '98 S70 GLT, which was thought to have needed an alternator, but was another electrical issue... This should fit on my dad's '96 T5 right?

 

This is what I found for fitment on the bosch 100 amp :

VOLVO850(1993 - 1996)
VOLVOS90(1997 - 1998)
VOLVOV90(1997 - 1998)

 

I would think so.

 

So what tool can I use to remove the serpentine belt?

I understand I gotta relive tension to get it off.

Would any of you recommend reusing a 20K mile old serp belt. I got the water pump and t belt replaced last week (leaking water pump).

I'm replacing the alternator soon myself and want to know if reusing the serp belt is alright or not.

 

You can reuse it, should you ...... maybe. If it's a quality Goodyear, Gates .... belt it should have an easy 15 or 20K left in it. If you bought the "economy" belt 20K ago it's likely to be due to be replaced at this point.

Dependind on the tensioner you have you either need the special tool that fits in the center of the tensioner or just a 1/2 drive breaker bar if you have the replacement.
I bought a replacement tensioner just so I wouldn't have to get the special tool as I had used a pry bar to do it a couple times before I broke down and spent the $$$ on a Gates replacement.

There is this tool for $23 on Ebay.
VOLVO Serpentine Tension Belt Removal Tool 4708 | eBay

First photo is the replacement with a 1/2" dive square hole to relieve tension. Second photo is the original design with the big square opening in the center of the spring that takes a special tool.

Can someone with the tool post what the size of that square is ??? Metric or SAE doesn't matter, I would like to make one just in case.

 

Do you still have to use the allen key while using the tensioner tool?

Update: Yes, yes you have to use it to lock the tensioner.

I have a continental serp belt.

 

Continental is a good belt and if it looks OK I'd put it back on. If in doubt, get a new one.

 

Am I missing something? Based on above you think the alt is bad?

Did it crank after it died?

 

The hole in the old style serpentine belt tensioner is 11/16". I use a plumbing plug and pipe wrench.