Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Bad oil leak-timing belt cover

Old Jun 2, 2012 | 10:14 PM
  #21  
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To be clear, the front of the motor has the timing belt and faces the passenger side. The REAR of the motor also has cam seals, distributor, and cam shaft sensor and faces the drivers side of the car.

I thought you were here to get help and you seem to have a handle on it. Have a good night.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 10:23 PM
  #22  
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I do not know what you would call the side facing the firewall, the left side? I am stumped, I can not figure out the leak, although it appears that the likely sources have been ruled out. Tomorrow I will stare it down further, and pour more oil into the motor to try and pinpoint it, thanks for the help so far.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 11:00 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by tscarborough
1995 850 with a B3440 3.1 5 cyl.
Yeah......
I dont know where you got that from, but there is no such motor EVER in an 850.. All 850 motors start with B52...

In 95 there were only 4 motors with 3 fuel system options.. 2 motors only available in the US and only 1 fuel system available in the US Motronic 4.3... the motors only came in a 2.3L (turbo) or a 2.4L ( N/A)
Around the world there was a 10 valve 2.0L motor and a TDI
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And as far as I can tell B3440 is not even a volvo motor.. Its a chevy avalanche motor
 

Last edited by MattyXXL; Jun 2, 2012 at 11:04 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 08:51 AM
  #24  
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That number is molded into the valve cover.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 09:44 AM
  #25  
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It is the exhaust cam seal. It was actually pushed out, so I pushed it back in, no leak. I will order new seals and replace both, then plan on tearing down the PVC system. Thanks for all your help!
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 10:21 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by tscarborough
It is the exhaust cam seal. It was actually pushed out, so I pushed it back in, no leak. I will order new seals and replace both, then plan on tearing down the PVC system. Thanks for all your help!
Do the PCV at the same time.. otherwise youll just end up popping out the seals again or even worse you could pop a RMS
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 10:36 AM
  #27  
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That is the plan, all at once.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 11:33 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by rspi
Also, the pic of the cam gear that you took, which is the exhaust cam, looks as if the seal is out of it's place, which would mean it's not seated properly and would leak when the motor is running.
That's what she said.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 12:26 PM
  #29  
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Yes, that is what I noticed this morning. I reseated it, and the leak stopped. I hope it will hold until next weekend when I have the parts (and the time) to replace it and clean the PVC system.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 05:52 PM
  #30  
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I tore down the intake manifold (cleaned the TB and manifold while it was off) and cleaned/replaced the PCV system and all lines today, no problems other than with the 2 lower bolts on the manifold. Extension city on them!There is nothing sweeter than putting it back together and it cranks strong on the first pull.

Tomorrow I will do the cam seals.

Thank you to the forum and all the guys who post here, it really made it easy.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 05:56 PM
  #31  
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I would hold off on the cam seals to see if they start leaking again. Doing the PCV may have relieved enough pressure to stop them from popping out.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 06:11 PM
  #32  
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I have them already, but that is a good point, maybe I will just pull the covers, check them to make sure they are seated then wait.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 08:28 AM
  #33  
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I went ahead and pulled the cam covers to check the seals, they are both in place, so I will follow your advice and leave them be for now. It runs good, no more leaks. Thanks again.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 07:29 PM
  #34  
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No joy, still bleeding from the seals. I'll do it next weekend.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 07:52 PM
  #35  
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Cool. If the belt is wet, I would go ahead and replace it as well. Do you know the history of the belt, rollers, and tensioner? I seen some instructions where a guy actually secured the belt to the other cam sprocket and roller, pulled a cam off and replaced the seal and put the cam back on.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 11:55 AM
  #36  
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Well, I pulled and replaced the seals, marking everything thoroughly, put it back together and now it won't start. Turns over fine, but no fire.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 12:16 PM
  #37  
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Yes, I did both sides on the front. The alignment marks are all perfect, were is the cam position sensor?
 
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 12:18 PM
  #38  
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Did you do both sides?
Sounds like either your cam position sensor or timing is off
 
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 01:40 PM
  #39  
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The cps is under the upper torque mount, rear exhaust position.
 

Last edited by rspi; Jul 12, 2012 at 09:21 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 01:47 PM
  #40  
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I checked for spark and fuel, both are OK.
 
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