Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

bleeding the clutch

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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 09:56 PM
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Alex11's Avatar
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Default bleeding the clutch

i have a 93 850glt and im having trouble bleeding the hydraulic clutch, is there any special way to do it?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 01:34 AM
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its a pain in the but. so dont worry, its normal.

first things first make sure that your brake fluid is FULL. there is two sections in it, and it needs to over flow to the second section to get to the clutch (you will see the small square hole on the back side of the res.

once you have done that get a buddy, and a few beers (dark amber works the best). open the valve on the slave cyl a 1/4 turn and have ur buddy hold his thumb over it (can also put a hose on it to control the mess) have him let air/fluid through (like a valve) but nothing in (if that makes sense). then just pump.

you can also get a one way valve thing at some auto parts stores that is used for bleeding brakes, you will need to rig up some hose (to make it smaller). that that works slick.

the one thing that you need to watch is keeping that full of fluid up top.


once you are getting straight fluid out of the hose/valve (no air) go ahead and cap off the valve, fill the fluid. and pump it up. its an overly soft clutch, so dont base it on the push it take. but base it on how much the slave cyl moves the lever arm.


come back if u need any more help.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 10:16 PM
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I used a vacuum bleeder on mine with good results but I did find that when all was looking good I used my hand to push the clutch release lever farther back against the slave cylinder and doing so forced a little bit more air out of the master cylinder.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 03:26 AM
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  1. Remove the thin woven lining that is lying in between the master cylinder and the car's firewall. (To prevent from fluid spillage later on our rebuild process.)
  2. Work on a clean paper or paper towel.
  3. Look at the end of the master cylinder (the one that is connected to the engine firewall) and locate the circular clip that integrates the whole master cylinder. (a horseshoe like circular object with two holes on its end)
  4. Press the piston using a screwdriver and remove the circular clip with the use of the circlip plier.
  5. After removing the circular clip, the piston inside the master cylinder will eventually be removed. (You can then notice that only a cheap plastic were used as a component.)
  6. Shake the master cylinder until the remaining 3 components (spring, cap, circular plastic lining) are out.
  7. Make sure that the repair kit contains the the following components (piston, spring, cap).
  8. Clean the whole internal master cylinder body using fresh brake fluid and wiping it with cotton bud. (Do not use water or other solvents in cleaning this one.)
  9. After cleaning it, pour on some fresh brake fluid in it.
  10. Soak the new spring, cap, circular plastic lining, piston with fresh fluids.
  11. Put the cap on solid (flat) end of the spring and re-insert it into the master cylinder body.
  12. Next, attach the circular plastic lining and afterwards set the piston into the master cylinder. Remember that the flat side will be used to contact with the circular plastic lining and the side for the push rod should be exposed.
  13. Reinsert the circular clip by pushing the piston with a screwdriver and clipping the circular clip (like putting the clip on a Koni shock absorber in a reverse manner).
  14. Now, you have rebuilt your clutch master cylinder.
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 07:48 AM
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above post is spam.... delete
 
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