Hi
I recently bought 1992-1993 850 GLT (made Nov 1992 in Belgium, 1st registration 1993), actually I bought 2 of 850GLT cars.
I found it difficult to buy Haynes workshop manual (I emailed Haynes Australia - they just ignored me, bastards) and so I hope somebody can give me some tips...?
Cab fan (in front of passenger) is not working at all, air cond is not working, REC and ACC OFF lights keep blinking. I checked all fuses - they are OK. Where to look for next ?
Also I would like to know if that is possible to check-replace main bearings shells, without removing the engine ? I expect to find some of them a bit worn (232.000km, some limited noise and vibration, I am still not quite sure where is that coming from but I expect main bearings).
Thanks for help in advance

 

For the A/C the blower motor and resistor might be bad. The lights flashing means codes in system. Read and clear codes follow link. A/C is pin #B1 http://www.troublecodes.net/Volvo/
The bearings the mains are usually good the rod ones wear when the motor is neglected from oil. When taken car of they hold up very well. I have seen cars with over 200k on them and look like new.

 

You should also add a cabin air filter. This will prolong the life of the HVAC system components.

 

Thanks but...
Where is the resistor and how can I test it ? I still don't know if its possible to replace main/con-rod bearings (shells) without removing the engine ?

 

The resistor is in the front of the air box under the dash.It is to the left of the blower motor. You should be able to test with an ohm meter and a wiring diagram for the resistor.

On the bearings the main crankshaft bearings no the motor needs to be split in half. Rod bearings yes.

 

I recently managed to buy Haynes manual and just spent some time trying to fix mentioned problems. I found the fan working (I powered it with round 12v from battery charger and it spins fast). I removed the resistor (car is 850 GLT with electronic climate control) and I hope to inspect it (the resistor) but I have no idea how could I found out if its ok, or faulty... - any advice please ? ( I have quality automotive digital multimiter).
Also I cheked codes for AC and that is what my beaty said:
131, 135, 231, 311, 312, 313, 314, 315, 411, 412, 413, 414, 416, 417, 418, 419 - a lot of them isn't it ? I don't know what to think about all that mess, just too many codes !? - is that reading reliable ? I also noticed that I was not able to delete any...I kept the button on for 5 or 6 seconds and it should (after 3 seconds) light again, but it did not ! What to think about all that ? Where to look for to get that bloody fan and AC working ?
Thanks in advance

 

Try holding the button down for about 10 seconds instead of 5 seconds to clear the codes. Also when you try to clear them you have to read all of them first.

Which style resistor do you have there is many different types.
I will bet it is bad.

 

I did as you said - I hold the button down for some 10 seconds. Some of codes were gone so I repeat canceling 2 or 3 times. Eventually she persistently displays only one fault: 314 which will not cancel. "Floor/defrost damper motor shorted to earth or 12V"....if that is the only problem, would that totally kill the blower and AC from working ???
The resistor i ALPS 4070 Japan, Volvo part number 9144355. It has two sockets- one with two huge terminals and the other one with 4 small terminals.
BTW: I was hoping to fit the resistor from my second 850, but to my surprice, this beaty (except somebody smashed her ***) has manual climate control and resistor is totally different.

 

Then you have the fully inclosed resistor. I would have to find a wiring diagram to give you then you would have to trace the circuits to try testing the resistor. But I am 99% sure the resistor is bad. I see this all the time.
No that code would not shut the blower off.

 

Thanks mate. I will try to buy new (or second hand but working) resistor.

 

keep us posted.

 

Just got new resisitor (second hand, from wrecker) and no any difference - fan is dead. Its too late tonight for me do check fault codes again, I will prpbably do that tomorrow. The only test I just made to connect test lamp (ground to car body, plus to red wire very close to the fan - there is some power there, test lamp is onk, but pretty dark (it likely has 24V bulb).
Also, when I connect other plug to the fan (there is some plug very close to the fan, just the same type and size plug) - the fan blows like crazy.
No idea what to do next

 

Can anybody suggest anything ?

 

Maybe there might be a problem with the used part.

 

I have just tried next one (also second hand) resistor - no any difference. Fan is not working, both red warning lights blink for some 20 seconds or so. This is the third resistor already with no any result - I think resistor is not a reason for all that problem. Any ideas what to do next ?

 

It is kind of hard to say now without knowing the codes.

 

OK, I checked ther codes again. Several days ago most of them were gone, but now there is plenty again: 135, 221, 231, 311, 312, 313, 314, 315, 414, 417, 418, 419
Also, I did some testing with multimiter and test lamp again. There is 8.8 Volts on plug that connects to the fan (engine on idle) and about 12 Volts measured between one of terminals on that plug and the car body. Test lamp connected to this plug (which connects to the fan) is dead.
These faults...417 and 418 seem to be especially interesting - how to undestand them ?
I have used 3 resitors already so I recon resistor is not the problem.

 

Sorry, 418 and 419 seem to be interesting, not 417...

 

Just trying to find some useful info (in workshop manual) about "power stage"...really nothing helpful in the book ! What is "power stage" ?

 

The power stage is basically the resistor it is another name for the resistor.

Now it might end up being the controller.