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A/C Does Not Cool Good When HOT

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Old 06-26-2009, 08:36 AM
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Default A/C Does Not Cool Good When HOT

Last night when I left work the tempature was right around 100 and the car just would not cool down. The Air coming out was cool, but not cold. As I drove it never really cooled the car down much at all. When I got futher out I stooped at a grocery store. When I came out the temp was 89 and the A/C practically froze me out.

Any ideas what would cause this? Think I just need it flushed and recharged? That would be my guess. This was in the T5R. The other two cars work great which leads me to believe this one needs something.
 
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Old 06-26-2009, 04:43 PM
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My T-5R does the same thing. It has been 98 here for over a week now and it's tough. My compressor kicks off and on so I have to turn the **** down to like 62 and then switch the botton to recycle to get the car cool inside.

I had my mechanic check it out for me and he said it was 1/2 whatever low so he charged it up. That did not matter because 15 minutes later it was doing the same thing. I was thinking that I needed to do the compressor washer thing but maybe the Sweeds are just not good over 90 degrees.
 

Last edited by rspi; 06-26-2009 at 04:45 PM. Reason: Correction
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Old 06-26-2009, 05:53 PM
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Hey, don't say that about Swedes. Both of mine blow cold air and here in Arizona is over 100° and one of them is black. Any way, two years ago I had same problem AC would shut off after couple minutes and mechanic at dealership bypassed " overheat switch"
 
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Old 06-26-2009, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by blackbrick
Hey, don't say that about Swedes. Both of mine blow cold air and here in Arizona is over 100° and one of them is black. Any way, two years ago I had same problem AC would shut off after couple minutes and mechanic at dealership bypassed " overheat switch"
Not wanting to glom in but since any number of people with a similar problem might want to try this, what are the ramifications of doing this, if it works does it mean the switch is bad itself, and where do we find this switch, and how does one bypass it?

Adam.... hoping my problem is something so simple....
 
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Old 06-26-2009, 06:42 PM
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Had CEL and couldn't pass emission test. Took it to dealership and they diagnosed and replaced fuel tank pressure sensor and A/C pressure sensor. It cost me fortune $ 737.00 Passed emission test same day and realize that A/C is shutting off after couple minutes. Took it back to mechanic and they diagnose: ''99208 The overheat switch causing the compressor to turn off. Bypassed the switch to allow the compressor to run.''
No charge for this, and they wash my car two times.
Where switch is or how to do it, no idea. But I'm sure some of moderators here know.Wait for them to replay.
 
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Old 06-26-2009, 06:59 PM
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It's not normal for it to not cool when the temp is real high. My 94 cooled fine and so do my other two. Never heard of the "Overheat Switch".
 
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Old 06-26-2009, 07:08 PM
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Me neither, but I don't know anything about A/C anyway.
Got invoice in front of me and it say ''The overheat switch" and date is jun 30 2005 so it is four years ago not two(my bad)
 
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Old 06-26-2009, 08:11 PM
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The overheat switch is usually in the back of the compressor. The wires run inline. You can unplug it and then run the wire right to the plug.

But also make sure you are full of freon.
 
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Old 06-27-2009, 06:01 AM
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To me something called an Overheat Switch sounds too important to just bypass and I dont like jury rigging things on my Volvos.. I have tried recharging it myself with a kit and a can from Autozone, but that does not seem to do much if anything. Think I'll just take it somewhere and have it vacuumed and fully recharged.
 
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Old 06-27-2009, 08:04 AM
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Is your compressor cycling like crazy? Ours kept "losing its cool" so to speak until I shimmed the compressor clutch
 
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Old 06-27-2009, 09:32 AM
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Jim on the newer compressors they do not have the overheat switch. They found out it is not even worth wild to have them on there.
 
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Old 06-27-2009, 10:19 AM
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Would a 96 have this?

What I noticed is that mine would freeze me out at night and during the day cycle on and off like crazy.

Kind of ghey but whatever.

That's what I have a scooter for. But then I blew a tire...haha

But I have read that some people say that at 130,000 miles it needs to be vaccuumed out and recharged fully?
 
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Old 06-27-2009, 10:24 AM
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Then you might be low on freon.
 
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Old 05-05-2010, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by tech
The overheat switch is usually in the back of the compressor. The wires run inline. You can unplug it and then run the wire right to the plug.

But also make sure you are full of freon.
Do you have tips or additional detail on how to do this? I am comfortable attempting the bypass, and have done plenty of wiring in my days, but don't see what you are referring to by looking at my compressor.

I have a 2001 C70 with the HPT, if that makes a difference.

Thanks!
 
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Old 05-05-2010, 08:54 PM
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My '97 850 T5 needs a recharge every season...not sure why the refrigerant leaks out...obviously a leak...I get it recharged in late Spring and i am good for the season.AC blows cold...55 degrees on a 90+ day...
 
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Old 05-05-2010, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by volvoadam
Do you have tips or additional detail on how to do this? I am comfortable attempting the bypass, and have done plenty of wiring in my days, but don't see what you are referring to by looking at my compressor.

I have a 2001 C70 with the HPT, if that makes a difference.

Thanks!
Not all the compressors have the sensor in it.
If it does it will be in the back of the compressor. Like either above or below the lines. The connectors for the sensor are almost exactly the same as for the compressor to the car. So if you unplug the sensor you can just plug from the clutch into the car harness.
 
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Old 05-06-2010, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by tech
Not all the compressors have the sensor in it.
If it does it will be in the back of the compressor. Like either above or below the lines. The connectors for the sensor are almost exactly the same as for the compressor to the car. So if you unplug the sensor you can just plug from the clutch into the car harness.
This is my g/f's car, so I will be looking at it tomorrow. If I understand you correctly, I can unplug the wiring leading to the sensor, and then unplug the sensor from the clutch. Once I do that, I can plug the wires that originally went from the car harness to the sensor directly into the clutch itself.

Is that correct? Thanks for your assistance!
 
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Old 05-06-2010, 09:52 PM
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Yes that is correct.
 
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Old 06-15-2010, 04:28 PM
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Finally getting ready to try this. Is the switch white and sitting right on top of the compressor? I found what I think you are talking about, but not sure how to get both hands down there to unplug the switch to bypass it. Will go back out after the car cools down.

I want to drive my yellow car, but the AC is not working worth a darn when over 85 degrees, but will freeze you at when below 80.

Edit: Is this it?

 

Last edited by JimKW; 06-15-2010 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 06-15-2010, 07:49 PM
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Nope that's not it. When I cut the wire to that and straight wired it the compressor would not come on at all. I was careful enough to be able to splice the wires back together though, which I did. Then the compressor started kicking on and off real quick. I put a can of R134A in and that made it stay on longer for a very short time while the R134A was going in, and then it started kicking on and off again. The compressor does not sound good at all when it does kick on also.

The fact that it took almost an entire can of R134A means there is a leak which probably means evaporator and possibly compressor too. Not sure I want to put that much money into it. The AC works great in my Envoy, but I really miss driving my T5R.

Maybe I'll see if I can find the overheat switch and try that again, but not sure exactly where to look. It's a darn tight squeeze down in there.
 


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