Hey yall, I just rigged a home depot dryer duct to my stock airbox. It was a 3" unit which I thought I could flex and squeeze on the box but it was 1-2mm too short.

So...I got it on as best and tight as it'll squeeze w/o tearing it anymore, then used alot of clear tape to get it sealed.

My thing is, over time i'm sure the heat would cause the tape to warp, so does anyone know what kind of tape I can use that is heat tolerant?

And afterwards i'd like to wrap it completely with the exhaust manifold wrap.

Here's a pic, tell me what you think.


You can see the end of the CAI tube through the hole I cut out for fog lights later.

 

I don't think exhaust manifold wrap would wrap over that very well. Why not just route it to where the original air feed was? Shorter route. Bust looks good though. :tup:

 

Use duct tape. not what is commonly referred to as duct tape, but the adhesive backed foil tape that is used to seal heat ducts. You can get it at most hardware stores for around 10 bucks for a roll.

http://www.venturetape.com/product.p...&cat=28&page=1

 

ha, didn't even think of that. I'll go that route when I get bored again and have free time. I could hook up the air duct (just answered my own question regarding what tape to use) and tape it up to where the maf sensor meets the stock airbox.

Will have to locate a high flow cone filter for that route.

 

While you're at it tape up some of the other stuff you have hanging loose in there. Like the upper torque mount, the throttle body cover, the spark plug cover, etc...

 

Ouch man, really. lol. Yea those engine covers, i'm not a fan of.

 

Wait, what? Put a filter in route or what?

 

no no, to go the route of complete cai, removing the airbox and just running the air duct from lower bumper to turbo hose, then finding a way to splice the maf inline, then go buy a high flow cone filter.

I think i'll stay with my current setup for now. Duct tape ftw.

 

So I finally got around to rigging a few inches of rubber hose and a big *** clamp to cover up any sign of duct tapage, it'll be our little secret...

 

To put on the end of the ducting down by the bumper?

 

Id be careful with water getting up in there, There is always that risk. Big puddle equals no fun.

 

No gilber, no cone filter along with panel filter, it's either or.

What I have now is the cai duct attached to the stock box which houses the k&n panel filter.

I cut off a little more of the tube that sat behind the bumper due to safety reasons...
The end of the tube sits right above the subframe. Water should have a hard time getting inside the duct.

 

thats good, It looked like it was very low before, I also always wondered the effects of pavement heating if this would be effective on a very hot day.

 

Pavement heating may be an issue at low speeds around town IF I hadn't shortened the tube to where it sits just above the subframe. I doubt it would be hot enough to affect performance.

I made this cai for highway uses really, @ 75+ is where drag takes effect and need all the power I can get. I feel it makes a difference even if it's only 1 tenth of a second. In real world scenarios, one tenth is life and death.

 

Are you missing the original OEM cold air plastic hose? I still have mine but what I did was remove the metal cover behind the grill that blocks the place where that hose feeds in too. Nice little cold air feed now. There is only one bolt that hold's that cover place.

 

I still have the factory plastic tube, but I decided to change to a larger diameter duct for more volume.

The stock one seems a bit, small and skinny don't you think?

 

Actually it's not that bad. The difference is probably neglible and you would never really feel a difference I wouldn't think.

 

You did nothing to increase the performance of your car. All you did is waste your time and a little money. 1. The stock air box does have a ram air effect because the inlent is in the front grille so it gets plenty of cold air. 2. The "ram air" set up you used has more sharp bends in it so it will actually impede air flow. 3. The bumpieness of the tube will actually cause turbulence in the tube and even slow down the air delivery more. 4. There is a reason the engineers put the inlet up in the grill: do eliminate the risk of hydraulically locking up the engine if you go through a big puddle after a thunderstorm, now you have almost guaranteed it happen. 5. Any idea of using a so called cold air intake on a turbo charged engine is also a farse why do you think they put the intercooler between the turbo and the throttle and the turbo not before the turbo. The idea is that colder air is denser thus the oxygen molecules are compressed and you actually get a more volital explosion in the combustion chamber. The turbo charger actually does the same thing only much more effectively becasue it compresses the air allowing it carry more o2 for combustion. Unfortunately the air being compressed is going to get a lot hotter thus requiring the intercooler.

I would guess that your cold air intake will cost you 8-12 horsepower, produce less torque and slower throttle responce and leave you vulnerable to hydrolocking your motor.

 

You are actually going to loose 8 to 12 hp because you put a sharp bend in a formally straight air path plus the corrugation of the flexy tubing is going to create internal turbulence and slow the air even more (why do you think they make intake ports as smooth as a babies but) Also any reduction in air temp, if there is any which I doubt, would be more than negated by the superheating the air is going to get in the turbo both from the high manifold heat and the friction of compression. Why do you think they put the intercooler after the turbo? CAIs are a total waste of $ on turbo cars.
Plus now you made your car more vulnerable to hydrolocking by lowering point of intake. Big Puddle = Bent Rod.

 

You did nothing to increase the performance of your car. All you did is waste your time and a little money. 1. The stock air box does have a ram air effect because the inlent is in the front grille so it gets plenty of cold air. 2. The "ram air" set up you used has more sharp bends in it so it will actually impede air flow. 3. The bumpieness of the tube will actually cause turbulence in the tube and even slow down the air delivery more. 4. There is a reason the engineers put the inlet up in the grill: do eliminate the risk of hydraulically locking up the engine if you go through a big puddle after a thunderstorm, now you have almost guaranteed it happen. 5. Any idea of using a so called cold air intake on a turbo charged engine is also a farse why do you think they put the intercooler between the turbo and the throttle and the turbo not before the turbo. The idea is that colder air is denser thus the oxygen molecules are compressed and you actually get a more volital explosion in the combustion chamber. The turbo charger actually does the same thing only much more effectively becasue it compresses the air allowing it carry more o2 for combustion. Unfortunately the air being compressed is going to get a lot hotter thus requiring the intercooler.

I would guess that your cold air intake will cost you 8-12 horsepower, produce less torque and slower throttle responce and leave you vulnerable to hydrolocking your motor.