Couple of questions about 95 850. cooling, ac, maintanence.
I just bought a 95 850 for 800$ yesterday
it needs a new hood, and a regular tune up.
it runs great and no problems.
it has 192,000 miles
the ac does not work, owner said it needs a charge, it has a slow leak somewhere.
Where might it be? anyway to locate it easy
also when getting int he car and going to put the car in drive, i have to press the shift lock release most times. why? what is the fix?
what all do i need to replace and look out for on the car.
im new to volvo's so anything you think i might need to know please tell me. im very well knowledgeable about imports, but not german cars.
also what should the motor temp gauge be at? should right in the very middle be ok, or is it sposd to be below middle.
and also the baterry while driving how many volts should it read?
mine is ready around 10.5-11i think....
i thought it was sposd to be 12.5-13.5??
the window also is somewhat off track. any fixes?
'
thanks guys, try not to be too hard on the new guy.....
it needs a new hood, and a regular tune up.
it runs great and no problems.
it has 192,000 miles
the ac does not work, owner said it needs a charge, it has a slow leak somewhere.
Where might it be? anyway to locate it easy
also when getting int he car and going to put the car in drive, i have to press the shift lock release most times. why? what is the fix?
what all do i need to replace and look out for on the car.
im new to volvo's so anything you think i might need to know please tell me. im very well knowledgeable about imports, but not german cars.
also what should the motor temp gauge be at? should right in the very middle be ok, or is it sposd to be below middle.
and also the baterry while driving how many volts should it read?
mine is ready around 10.5-11i think....
i thought it was sposd to be 12.5-13.5??
the window also is somewhat off track. any fixes?
'
thanks guys, try not to be too hard on the new guy.....
Hello mordezmoncou,
Greetings from Yokohama, Japan.
>thanks guys, try not to be too hard on the new guy.....
Not to worry, we all are new once a while
.
Air Conditioning:
The A/C is leaking most likely at the evaporator. While the evaporator itself is not that expensive, the labour is. The reason is because on 850s, the evaporator is embedded in the deepest abyss of the dash, and much of the dash has to come out just to get to the evaporator, so it is a good one day job. If you can get by by adding R134a with a recharge kit, do so until you have the money to replace the evaporator. If you are mechanically inclined, you can replace the evaporator after emptying the system at a shop.
Evaporator seems to be at $140 at FCP Groton, an excellent parts source:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/VolvoAC/volvo850ac.htm#evap
Replacement instruction by Moderator Tech, the top-dog of the forum:
https://volvoforums.com/m_7364/tm.htm
Replacement info by Bay-13 at Volvospeed.com:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/ac.php
Shifting Problem:
The shifting problem is probably due to a faulty PNP (Neutral Safety) switch:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/pnpswitch.php
Price on the PNP switch:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850other.htm
Genuine Volvo is $30 more than Scan-tech (Swedish), but I would go with Volvo.
Normal Engine Operating Temp:
The coolant temp should stay at 3 O'clock but can be a hair above/below. If too low and the hot air from the heater is not hot, it probably is a time for new thermostat (French Vernet or German Wahler):
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850cooling.htm
There are two different temp settings for the T-stat, but the difference is negligible. I used Vernet's 87-degree T-stat. The new one comes with a new seal ring, but have a tube of water pump/T-stat sealant and put it between the upper & lower mating surfaces to ensure leak-free installation.
Battery Voltage:
With the engine running, the voltage across battery posts should at least be above 13V. When the engine is running, you're reading the alternator output (please ignore if you know it already), and it has to be higher than the battery voltage in order to charge it. The voltage may rise as you rev the engine but should not exceed 14.? volts (15V is too high), as the voltage regulator should prevent it from going up further.
Addition:
The timing belt is of most important item on 850. If your car did not come with a maintenance record, I would replace the belt. Remove the 12mm bolt that is holding the belt cover, to the left of the engine as you open the hood, wiggle the cover upward and visually inspect for wear. The belt has to be replaced at every 70,000 miles/5 years (I do mine at every 60,000 miles/5 years).
T-belt replacement instruction:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.php
T-belt components:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850timing.htm
Here's a helpful thread:
https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm
Let us know if you need any other info.
Good luck!
JPN
[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/BF198FBD646D4A75AE3351357646AA39.jpg[/IMG]
Greetings from Yokohama, Japan.
>thanks guys, try not to be too hard on the new guy.....
Not to worry, we all are new once a while
. Air Conditioning:
The A/C is leaking most likely at the evaporator. While the evaporator itself is not that expensive, the labour is. The reason is because on 850s, the evaporator is embedded in the deepest abyss of the dash, and much of the dash has to come out just to get to the evaporator, so it is a good one day job. If you can get by by adding R134a with a recharge kit, do so until you have the money to replace the evaporator. If you are mechanically inclined, you can replace the evaporator after emptying the system at a shop.
Evaporator seems to be at $140 at FCP Groton, an excellent parts source:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/VolvoAC/volvo850ac.htm#evap
Replacement instruction by Moderator Tech, the top-dog of the forum:
https://volvoforums.com/m_7364/tm.htm
Replacement info by Bay-13 at Volvospeed.com:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/ac.php
Shifting Problem:
The shifting problem is probably due to a faulty PNP (Neutral Safety) switch:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/pnpswitch.php
Price on the PNP switch:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850other.htm
Genuine Volvo is $30 more than Scan-tech (Swedish), but I would go with Volvo.
Normal Engine Operating Temp:
The coolant temp should stay at 3 O'clock but can be a hair above/below. If too low and the hot air from the heater is not hot, it probably is a time for new thermostat (French Vernet or German Wahler):
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850cooling.htm
There are two different temp settings for the T-stat, but the difference is negligible. I used Vernet's 87-degree T-stat. The new one comes with a new seal ring, but have a tube of water pump/T-stat sealant and put it between the upper & lower mating surfaces to ensure leak-free installation.
Battery Voltage:
With the engine running, the voltage across battery posts should at least be above 13V. When the engine is running, you're reading the alternator output (please ignore if you know it already), and it has to be higher than the battery voltage in order to charge it. The voltage may rise as you rev the engine but should not exceed 14.? volts (15V is too high), as the voltage regulator should prevent it from going up further.
Addition:
The timing belt is of most important item on 850. If your car did not come with a maintenance record, I would replace the belt. Remove the 12mm bolt that is holding the belt cover, to the left of the engine as you open the hood, wiggle the cover upward and visually inspect for wear. The belt has to be replaced at every 70,000 miles/5 years (I do mine at every 60,000 miles/5 years).
T-belt replacement instruction:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.php
T-belt components:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850timing.htm
Here's a helpful thread:
https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm
Let us know if you need any other info.
Good luck!
JPN
[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/BF198FBD646D4A75AE3351357646AA39.jpg[/IMG]
thanks so much! thats prob the best reply from any forum. good info, you answerd most of my questions with one reply! thanks, but one more, what would cause my voltage to read so low when running? it starts up and runs fine with no problems...
Hello again,
Yes, it is strange that the car is functioning fine with such low voltage, especially with the fact that Volvos are extremely sensitive to correct power supply.
I assume that the alternator may be reaching its life. Some people say that the alternators on Volvos last very long time, but mine failed at 130,000 miles/12 years, so my opinion is that it's good to replace it at 100,000 miles/10 years with safety factor concerned. When mine failed, I was stranded on a busy road and it was extremely dangerous. But if the battery hasn't died for a while, then the alternator is probably producing above 13V and the reading may not be accurate... May be a low battery in your multimeter?
Also, check the voltage with the engine off, so you can measure the battery's voltage. It should be between 12.2V-12.7V, or somewhere close to those figures. If you have a hydrometer, check each cell's specific gravity; each should read at least above 1.250, ideally 1.275. You seem knowledgeable on imports, but I strongly recommend that you wear eye protection when you check for electrolyte. One guy was upset with my recommendation in the past, saying that he was an expert, but I know of some people acting macho and regretted in the end.
Sorry I couldn't narrow down the problem, someone else may be able to jump in, as people on this forum, especially in the 850 section, are extremely knowledgeable.
Best wishes,
JPN
[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/0A0F42D0A4E845EF88867A286A4FF64F.jpg[/IMG]
Yes, it is strange that the car is functioning fine with such low voltage, especially with the fact that Volvos are extremely sensitive to correct power supply.
I assume that the alternator may be reaching its life. Some people say that the alternators on Volvos last very long time, but mine failed at 130,000 miles/12 years, so my opinion is that it's good to replace it at 100,000 miles/10 years with safety factor concerned. When mine failed, I was stranded on a busy road and it was extremely dangerous. But if the battery hasn't died for a while, then the alternator is probably producing above 13V and the reading may not be accurate... May be a low battery in your multimeter?
Also, check the voltage with the engine off, so you can measure the battery's voltage. It should be between 12.2V-12.7V, or somewhere close to those figures. If you have a hydrometer, check each cell's specific gravity; each should read at least above 1.250, ideally 1.275. You seem knowledgeable on imports, but I strongly recommend that you wear eye protection when you check for electrolyte. One guy was upset with my recommendation in the past, saying that he was an expert, but I know of some people acting macho and regretted in the end.
Sorry I couldn't narrow down the problem, someone else may be able to jump in, as people on this forum, especially in the 850 section, are extremely knowledgeable.
Best wishes,
JPN
[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/0A0F42D0A4E845EF88867A286A4FF64F.jpg[/IMG]
Couldn't say it any better than JPN did. SO, rather than repaet the great instructions, let me just say "welcome friend" We are an easy group to get along with and most of us are knowledgeable and will to help. Fire away with any questions and I'm sure you will get answers shortly. Again, Welcome.
Glenn
Glenn
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AnEskimo
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
9
Sep 25, 2010 08:32 AM
15v, 850, 95, air, alternator, battery, condition, conditioner, expensive, glt, maintenance, problems, voltage, volvo, volvospeed




