Hello,

I just recently purchased a turbo 850 which is a 1996 and bought it with the cylinder head off. It was 300 bucks so i said why not ill try to get it running again. Anyways im going to be starting to put the head back on soon and was wondering if any one had a diagram of the cooling system and vaccum system of the car and anything else that could help with this process.The turbo is bad on the car and im looking for that if any one has or knows of one. I was also searching around the forum and was seeing that only about 10-12psi on my car stock is about max. Why is this? arent the injectors and pump plenty for the stock turbo or is the ECU the problem? I was also hearing that the turbo model 850 had a lot of issues is this true or is everyone pretty happy with there cars?

thanks,

chris

 

Hey...What's up. Sorry for the long post.
The only reason they say 10-12psi is max...is that most people will really feel that much more boost (~30%-50% moreboost), and know their cars will still last as long. As long as they are maintained of course. Plus most of the people on this site are here for maintenance, and don't do much mods to their cars.

The ECU is theproblem as it has the fuel cut off at about 15.5psi (I believe). If you eliminate the cut off by a chip or ecu flash or upgrade then youwill have a knocking issue if you run the boost to high on standerd fuel. I believe that 91octane will support ~18psi on the 15g, but the turbo will be close to/out of it's effective/usable boost range, and could super-heat the charged air if it is raise beyond 20psi. I have seen some people run these turbos that high but they had supporting mods to go with it.
So if you want to run higher boost you will need to eliminate the Fuel Cut Off, might want to upgrade you IC (intercooler), will want to run higher octane, and your internals will need to be watched carefully.

If you need a new turbo...Check out turbobrick.com. Those guys have a kind of turbos for sell(used, new, and rebuilt) and they are prettywell priced.
You can always go to a junkyard and get one or have yours rebuit.

Here is a link to help you with the turbo selection:http://www.quickbrickmotorsports.com...lange_list.htm

Why was the head off the block? If it is offbeacus the timing belt snaped...I would look at the valves for theyare most likelybent.

Here is the cooling system with turbo:


And here is one on the head itself if you want:


Here are the torque settings:


And Here are some Directions from VADIS:
Replacing cylinder head gasket
Special tools: 951 2050 , 999 5199 , 999 5449 , 999 5451 , 999 5452 , 999 5453 , 999 5454 , 999 5509 , 999 5533 , 999 5670

Drain off the coolant and remove the front exhaust pipe
Disconnect battery negative lead.
Remove the expansion tank cap.
Remove the engine splash guard.
Open the nipples on the engine and radiator. Use hoses to lead off coolant.
Close the nipples.
Remove manifold/front exhaust pipe nuts.

Remove the exhaust manifold and the fuel rail
Remove
-the exhaust manifold, according to operation Check/replacing exhaust system .
-the belt transmission, according to operation Replacing timing belt .
Lift up and put the fuel rail with injectors to one side. Use protractor 999 5533 , for injectors.
Remove the two ground strips from the engine.
Caution! Take care not to damage injector nozzles and fuel needles.

Remove:
-the engine cooling fan (FC) and the intake manifold.
-the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing
-the camshaft pulleys, use counterhold999 5199 , mark up the pulleys (intake/exhaust)
-the inner timing cover screw

Remove rear components:
-the air cleaner (ACL) housing with hoses
-the camshaft position (CMP) sensor with trigger wheel
-the distributor cap with wiring and rotor
-the torque control arm with brackets

Remove the upper half of the cylinder head
Install tool 999 5453 (4 valve engine) or 999 5508 (2–valve engine) to secure the front edge of the camshafts.
Install tool 999 5454  to the camshaft housing cover allowing a few mm play.
Slacken off the screws (from outside and in) from the upper half, remove all screws.
Disconnect the camshaft cover at the stop lugs with tool 999 5670 . Start with cylinder 1 and work alternately backward.
Open and remove tools 999 5454  step for step so that parallel movement is ensured when removing the camshaft housing cover.
Mark up and remove the camshafts.

Remove the cylinder head
Remove the two coolant pipe screws.
Slacken off the cylinder head screws (work from the outside in).
Remove cylinder head.
Remove cylinder head gasket.

Clean:
-the exhaust joints exhaust manifold/cylinder head
-the cylinder block gasket face
-the coolant pipe gasket face
-the gasket face between the upper and lower cylinder head halves
Caution! Do not use a metal scraper. Use a soft putty knife and if necessary gasket solvent, P/N 1 161 340-3. The surfaces must be completeley clean for them to seal. When using gasket solvent a fume hood or extractor must be used.

Align the crankshaft as marked
Remove the starter motor.
Remove the blind cover plug.
Install camshaft adjustment tool 999 5451 .
Turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise until it stops.

Install the lower cylinder head half
Install the new cylinder head gasket
Lubricate the screws.
Tighten the screws in three stages from the middle and working out according to:
1. 20 Nm
2. 60 Nm
3. 130°, use bevel protractor 951 2050
Install the coolant pipe with a new gasket.
Install new O-rings around the spark plug wells.
Remove spark plugs 1 and 5.

Apply liquid gasket
Apply liquid gasket P/N 1 161 059-9 to the upper half of the cylinder head using a short-bristle roller.
Caution! Ensure that no gasket compound falls into the oilways. A thin layer is enough to form a seal.
Install the camshafts. Secure the front of the camshafts using holder 999 5453  and the rear using camshaft adjustment tool 999 5452  (without extensions).

Install the upper half of the cylinder head
Position the upper half.
Pull down onto cylinder head using press tool 999 5454  (two).
Install the upper section from the inside and outside. Tighten to 17 Nm.
Remove camshaft adjustment tool (999 5453 ) and tool (999 5454 )

Install the front camshaft seals
Use drift999 5449 .
Grease the seal.
Tap in the seal.
The later version of drift 999 5449 is made of plastic.

Install the camshaft pulleys
Position the upper timing cover
Install the camshaft pulleys, align according to marking.
Tighten the two screws until they just come into contact with the camshaft pulleys.
Lift out the upper timing cover.
Note! Check that the camshaft screw holes are centered, see illustration.

Adjusting the mechanical belt tensioner
If a mechanical belt tensioner is being used, adjust according to Adjusting the mechanical belt tensioner .

Install the camshaft belt
Install the tensioner damping unit. Tighten to 25 Nm.
Place the belt over the camshaft pulley, around the coolant pump and press the belt over the tensioner pulley.
Slacken off the two camshaft pulley screws.
Pull the lock pin out of the tensioner/damping unit.
Press hard or knock the belt twice in the direction of arrow (1) and twice in the direction of arrow (2) using a plastic mallet.

Tighten the camshaft pulleys
Install the third screw and tighten the screws to 20 Nm.
Install the inner timing cover screw.
Install the timing cover.

Remove the holding tools
Remove camshaft adjustment tool (999 5451 ) and install blind cover plug
Install the starter motor.
Remove the camshaft adjustment tool (999 5452 ).

Check the markings
Turn the engine crankshaft two turns.
Check that markings on the crankshaft and the timing gear pulley correspond.
Install the outer timing cover.

Install the rear camshaft seal
4– valve engines:
Use drift 999 5450 .
2– valve engines:
Use drift 999 5509 .
Grease the seal.
Press in the seal.
Hint: Normally the seal is positioned flush with the internal bevel edge. If there are grooves on the shaft journal the seal can be pressed in a further 2 mm by reversing the sleeve.

Install:
-the torque control arm, with the brackets
-the rotor with holder
-the camshaft position (CMP) sensor with trigger wheel
-the spark plugs
-the distributor cap and ignition cables
-the air cleaner (ACL) housing with all hoses and connectors

Install:
-the exhaust manifold according to operation Check/replacing exhaust system
-the intake manifold and engine cooling fan (FC) according to operation Replacing intake manifold
-the fuel rail
-the ground strip on the engine
-the exhaust pipe
-the splashguard under the engine

Top up coolant/Change oil and oil filter
Install battery negative lead
Top up with oil.
Oil capacity
including filter4.75 liters
excluding filter4.25 liters

Fill the cooling system.
Run the engine until the thermostat opens and top up if necessary.
Check for leaks.


Good luck.

 

wow this is great and greatly appreciated. so how about the reliability factor? are the turbo models pretty sound cars? and from what your saying i can run around 18psi on stock everthing if i have the ecu flashed or with that be a couple supporting mods as well?

 

They are pretty good cars from whatI have seen. I don't own one but would love to.

I have have seen these turbos that high.
If you getit tune or an upgraded ecu...they will tune it for like 17psi (I think) on a stock motor. If you are just usong a MBC, then it will only allow ~14-15psi

 

ok cool

 

You are going to want to look at a turbo-back exhaust though.
It will let the upgrade work to it's full potentional.
3in downpipe to 2.5in cat-back. A full 3in would help high psi output.

And maybe a K&N panel or cone filter to help get more air to the turbo

Edit: These are options to help prolong the turbo life when moded.

 

Dont forget to check out this: https://volvoforums.com/m_38606/tm.htm

It has a bunch of aftermarket and OEM sites. and you can also go to a muffler shop for the exhaust.

IPD, VIVA preformance, EST are gret companies, but there are many more.

Remember: "MOD at your own risk!"

Good luck

 

thanks for all the info

 

Sure thing....

Good luck and have fun with it.

 

My wifes car has 230K on the stock motor and turbo.

The motor itself is good up to 300HP if you do supporting mods 15-18 PSI should be pretty good.

I am running about 14 PSI on both cars at all times now. Yes 15.5 is fuel cutoff.

 

what can the stock motor hold with a big turbo and supporting fuel and tuning?


also what can the stock fuel system max out at your saying around 18psi?

 

There is people out there running 20 PSI with the proper tune and other small mods. When you hit 300HP you are borderline to breaking things mainly internals.

The fuel system should hold up to 18-20 PSI. I would just watch how far you go.

 

The turbo "orange tops" I think flow 310cc/mn? so they should provide enough fuel.

If you are planning on using a big turbo...get some forged internals (new rods, pistons, SS valves...ect) and bigger injectors just to be safe.

Listen to Tech...He is what some might call a volvo god (out of context of course).
We are not worthy.....
[sm=hail.gif][sm=hail.gif][sm=hail.gif][sm=hail.gif][sm=hail.gif]

LOL

 

LOL to funny!!!

 

I think these cars weigh like 3200-3400pounds....so ~280hp would hall azz.
If you do the bigger turbo and supporting mods and run ~330+hp...hold on to that steering wheel.

 

With what I have done to both cars ECU and MBC set at 14 PSI I estimate about 270HP now but thats at the motor but still fast.
When I take off from a stop at about 25MPH the tires brake loose and spin.

 

DAMMIT!!!!!
All this take makes me want to buy and build up an 850 T5-R.
Well maybe I will save and build up my B230FT .

 

My buddy has one that runs 12.0 flat in the 1/4 mile It is also using NOS.

 

That is sweet...

I was checking out those crazy guy on turbobricks, and i am impressed with their DIY levels of tunning.

This one guy has a really nice 242 which ran an 11.8.Twin CAM head plus a really big turbo and MS and WHOA.

Sorry for jackingyour thread TurboGT[sm=sorry.gif].

 

not a problem just reading everything as it comes.

i thought these motors were a little stronger than that. i mean even a 4g63 can hold over 500 stock