'95 Volvo 850T Automatic

So, this seemed to only act up during the winter when first starting up after sitting in the cold for a while or over night.

I would turn the car on and put it in drive and the upwards-pointing arrow on the dash lights would blink, while driving accelerating would be very slow but the RPMs would rev very high, I believe up to about around 4, until shifting up.

It was as if it was stuck in winter mode, even though I hadn't pushed the winter button.
Shifting out and back in to drive standing still would not work.
Pushing the winter button would not work.
And if I turned the car off and tried restarting it- it would not start.
I'd have to wait 15-20 minutes until it would start up again. And the it would usually still be stuck in the same mode, but sometimes drove normally again.

Could someone help me diagnose what could cause this problem? I'm no expert, but my guess would be something to do with the computer that controls all the dash switches and whatnot. Either that or the transmission is acting up.
Not in too much hurry to fix this right now since it only happens when it's cold. Knowing the problem would still be nice, though.

The transmission isn't in too good shape either..
I believe it's "flare-banging" as I've read similar symptoms I have be called on this forum.
So far it's only Reverse and First gear that slips, revs, then jerks into accelerating.
Does anyone know what needs to be repaired to fix this? I doubt I can afford to get a replacement transmission..

ALSO.. haha, this car isn't in the best shape I'm sorry to say. But, I'm also sure it's misfiring.
At high boost when the acceleration pedal is fully suppressed, the engine stutters and hacks VERY noticeably.
Would a full tune-up fix this, or are there other factors and parts I should take into consideration? Possible cracked valve? Gasket?

Any help is highly appreciated! Thanks

This car has been a huge pain in the *** since we got her, low income hasn't helped either. Coming into to some money soon, so I should have $1000 to put in to hopefully help out, may be a wee bit more.
Tune up and shocks and struts are on the list so far.

 

I would suggest you read the "new 850 owner thread" and go from there.

The car is dropping into what is know as LIMP HOME MODE, that is why it drives like that and the arrow is flashing. Trying to protect the transmission. Have you correctly checked and changed the fluid level in the tranny? You likely have a bad PNP switch.

As for it missing at WOT, if the plugs are older than 30,000 miles and the wires are older than 10 years or 150,000 miles I would suggest replacing the wires/rotor/cap.

Timing belt and PCV are important upkeep items on this car. If neglected you may not have to worry about driving it long at all.

 

Yes, I've read through that thread, just wanted to post something to get some answers of what seems most important to repair at the moment.

I don't believe the tranny fluid has been checked. The car has been in my mothers care, who isn't a big on putting money into maintenance. Though the car's current condition is entirely the previous owner's fault. And I'm no mechanic nor am I very knowledgeable of parts or repairs, and tools aren't something I can afford to be able to do it myself.

Would you happen to know how much a mechanic would try to charge on average to change out the PCV and timing belt? Timing belt was replaced not too long ago, but a new one couldn't hurt.

I'll try to look into what I can get repaired for what I have now.


Thanks for the information and advice.

 

For prices on what it would cost to get your timing belt replaced by someone else why not just make a couple calls to repair shops in your area and ask for an estimate. Then instead of second hand info you know what it's going to cost you to have it done locally.

If you're really short on money for parts and tools and knowledge of the vehicle it's best if you keep your foot away from wide open throttle, especially if it's not running well as you may damage it. That and you already know you have a transmission issue so why would you be doing anything other than trying to baby it along ?? The harder you are on the engine and trans the sooner they are going to break down totally.

Doing a basic tune up with spark plugs, cap, rotor and wires would be a place to start along with a good fuel injector cleaner like Lucas for the engine driveablity problem but I'd be more concerned you have a transmission going out on you.

If you're short of money a poorly running Volvo is not the place to start dumping money into, , , , , in my opinion. There are a number of much more economical cars that are much cheaper on maintenance and repair costs. The cost of purchasing a transmission and paying someone to install it (properly) will eat you alive and you still need to track down the driveability issue too

 

Frankly it sounds like the trans is shot, but you should have a transmission specialty shop look at it.

Like it has been mentioned, you have numerous issues here that are not friendly to a low budget, especially if a shop is doing the work.

 

What Kiss & Turkey is trying to tell you, an old Volvo 850 is not the car for someone that is not handy or for someone that doesn't have deep pockets. They are great cars when cared for but do require lots of care.

Do not do things that don't need done. Would you change a light bulb in your kitchen because "a new one wouldn't hurt?" I don't think so. That goes with a timing belt. If the belt has been replaced within the last 7 years or 70,000 miles do not waste money on that unless there is a good reason to, like a bad roller or leaking water pump. But make 100% sure it has been done. Not a guessing game with that one.

I promise you, it will be 20x cheaper to spend $30 for a set of tools that will take you through 90% off all needed Volvo repairs than to drop it by any shop for 10 minutes. So, if you are at all handy, take a deep breath, buy a cheap tool kit and start asking questions for help.

And before I forget again, since I already know you have a CEL (check engine light) lite on your dash, stop by a auto parts store like AutoZone and have them read the car's computer for FREE and write down ALL of the codes that the computer gives you and post them here so we can help you sort them out.

Average PCV job is $500, Average Timing Belt job is $650 at independant shops. I would only have a shop familiar with Volvo's do any work on it (pretty much a Volvo only shop).

 

My turbo car's previous owner was not mechanically inclined, and had a shop handle all the work.

I have over $10K in receipts for the less than 10 years he owned it. And he was HAPPY with the car!!!

 

Okay thanks for all the help, guys!

I have been babying the car, it's the reason it's still running, so far. I haven't tested the car since I noticed the misfiring.

I understand that a Volvo isn't a cheap car to maintain, it is only that just recently a bonus has left over some money that would be wise to put into the car. And buying a new or different car just isn't much of an option either, since anything we could afford will likely have it's own new set of problems. It'd be cool if we could leave that at that and not need to pour in a whole story about my financial situation. I wasn't the person that purchased the car, so it's pointless to lecture me that "Don't buy a car with problems if you don't have any money to begin with." It's something I'm well aware of.
Let's just talk about the car.

A tune up I should be able to manage, I am handy, just not so much with vehicles.

The check engine light is actually not on, which is probably even worse than if it were I guess.
I'll make sure to get to an Auto Zone soon, and post the codes once I do.
The timing belt has been replaced, about a year ago, so nevermind.


Thanks a lot for the help, I really appreciate it!

 

Ok, you say that you DO NOT have a CEL. Does the CEL come on when you turn the key to ON (position II) without starting the car? If not, the bulb is out or has been removed (eeek). Swing by a parts store and have them read the computer for codes anyway.

If you can handle a tune up you can do just about anything on the car with guidance here, at www.MatthewsVolvoSite.com and a few other Volvo sites. The only thing that you won't be able to do is stuff beyond your physical ability, like lift a motor out or special tools to remove a tranny.

Ask as many questions as you need to and keep the car in shape. They are great cars and will keep running for a while. I figure it cost about $75 per month (a heck of a lot cheaper than car payments) to keep one maintained at a indi shop, Turkey's receipts support that. However, if you can do things yourself you can cut that cost to about 20%, for parts and tools.

Hang in here...

 

I'll have to update you on that later tonight or tomorrow, don't have the car currently.
A NAPA store would have the same comp reading service for free maybe, right? I have one right down the street, so that would be good.

thanks

 

Stopped by an Advance Auto Parts for the computer reading today.
Cylinders 3 and 5 misfire and also random cylinder misfire. Planning for a tune up including new ignition coil to hopefully solve that problem.

Transmission was acting up as well, so I was recommended to check fluid levels, I will probably just take it somewhere for a complete fluid change.
Along with that I'll order a PNP switch replacement.
If I can afford it I'll try to manage a PCV job, if not hopefully I can take care of it in the near future.

Also the CEL bulb must be burnt out along with several others so I'll look into replacing those as well.

If you guys have any helpful information I should know about concerning parts or things to look out for it'd be appreciated. Otherwise I'll post any questions or problems I run into here that I can't fix or figure out by searching the forums and rest of the internet.

 

For starters, I would NOT take the car somewhere to have the transmission serviced. If it's fragile, a flush will surely finish it off. Look in the DIY sticky thread and service the tranny yourself.

Then you can take care of other things while there. I found a good PNP switch write-up on www.MatthewsVolvoSite.com. I have a switch that I can ship you, pm me if you'd like.

Those dash lights are kinda hard to get to. I suggest you take the entire dash pad loose and take the cluster out. The dash pad can be removed in 15 minutes.

 

So are you recommending I do not flush the ATF at all? And only add fluid if needed in the case it's not at the proper level?
Or are you just saying that I should do a flush myself and not let a service do it for me? If so, with the likeliness of it being fragile, how do I go about it differently?

As for a PNP switch, I think I'll just get a new one. Thanks for the offer, though.

Thanks for the tip! Might as well see if I can fix the odometer while I'm back there!

 

Nothing in your thread will take you anywhere near fixing the ODO. But that info is in the DIY sticky's as well.

 

If he removes the cluster to replace bulbs he could replace the odometer gears?

 

Do not pay someone to "flush" the transmission. They use a machine to push the fluid through and it's not a good idea on these cars with higher mileage. There is a good chance it can actually cause some harm.

Have the fluid drained from the drain plug like changing engine oil and just replace the amount that came out (3 to 4 qts.) Check to make sure it's full, drive it a bit and do it again. Rspi and others like this method and it will get fresh new fluid into the system with the least chance to damage anything.
I like to pull the hose off the radiator coming FROM the transmission and them let the transmission push the fluid out as I think it's a better way to get more of the crud out. There are threads on doing it both ways and you should do a little research to see which you'd prefer. In your case I'd lean toward the 3qts at a time method as it's easier and you need less equipment and tools to do it properly. Only warning is make sure you're pulling the TRANSMISSION drain plug and you're refilling the TRANSMISSION. Don't ask

If you have a random misfire a coil is the last culprit to go after. Plugs and wires are a good idea and don't forget to use anti-seize on the plug threads and some dielectric lube on the wires to help seal out moisture and make it easy to remove next time you're in there for something. You likely don't need a coil as you'd get a different code for it and usually if they fail, they fail. Small chance you have a crack in the tower the coil lead plugs into and that might cause the random code but save your money for the transmission. Plugs, wires and cap with rotor are almost always a cause of the random misfire. That coil new is around $125 and there are better places you can spend that.

Before you start to correct things on the engine I would make sure the transmission is working well. The transmission could be the big $$ to repair and it would be wise before you spend a couple hundred on tune up stuff to figure out if you'll have a properly working transmission to get that power to the road. Unless you think no matter what is wrong with it you'd fix or replace the transmission because you love the car.

 

Didn't see that he was going to replace lights. Only read PNP, plugs and tranny fluid change.

@Kiss: I'm now at the point that I only change my tranny fluid when it's stone cold, first thing in the morning.

 

Ah, okay. Thanks for explaining that. I'll look into the threads.

Yeah, I decided the coil was a little too pricey when I found it online anyway haha. Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are probably what I'll be replacing first.
The flush seems like something I would need or would have an easier time completing with a jack and some stands, I'll see if I know anyone I can borrow some off.

If I can't squeeze in everything for the flush anytime soon I'll try going for it next paycheck. The car only goes a couple hundred yards a day so I believe it can hold out a little longer.


Oh, and since the whole PNP switch with the flashing arrow thing is only something that acts up in cold weather, which is something I won't see in several months, I can wait with replacing that after all this other stuff, right? Or?

 

It's usually more efficient to change engine oil, power steering or transmission oil when it's fairly hot after use. The reasoning is that more of the "crud" you want to get out is in suspension by running the system and mixing it up and less likely to have settled out and be sitting on the bottom of a pan, component or line.
How much more you get out is pretty debatable though.

But it sure is kinder on the hand doing an oil change to do it cold or near cold for all the times I've burnt my fingers getting that plug out

Why do you do yours cold ??