Hello,

I had a check engine light with error code 2-4-1 (EGR sensor). The car stalled few times.

I decided to bring the car to a technician who cleaned the EGR sensor, changed the sparks + fuel filter.
After 150-200 miles the car stalled again two times. The check engine light is off. There are no error codes. The temperature of the engine is fine.

Do you have what could be the reason?

The car is a 850 Wagon, year 94, about 150000 miles (don't know exactly - the odometer does not work).

 

Could be a fuel pump or pump relay.
Or many other things.

 

Hello tech,

Could you tell me some instructions what should I do in order to locate the problem. I really don't want to invest too much in this 13 year old car.

Any information would be much appreciated.

The engine runs strongly, but sometimes it will stall - usually when the car is on hold. The problem happened 2 DAYS AFTER my technician replaced the oil pan (it was cracked) and when I tested the cruise control on the highway.

 

Does it just die or does it sputter like it is running out of gas?
Is the check engine light on?
When it stalls does the Tach drop to 0 before the engine stops running all the way?

 

It will sputter like it is running out of gas. After few seconds it will stop completely. I have to wait 30-40 seconds and I will be able to start the engine again. Usually the problem happens when the car is on hold.

The check engine light is off. After the technician cleaned the EGR, I deleted the 2-4-1 error code. The car has been driven 200-250 miles already and the check engine light is still off.

I did not look at the tachometer and am not sure. Next time, if it stalls, I will tell you.

 

Maybe the fuel pump relay is going bad.

 

Could be the fuel pump? Or if the fuel pump is bad, the engine will not start at all? What about the O2 sensor?

Thank you for your help!

 

The tachometer will not drop to 0 immediately - it will show some different values for 1-2 seconds.

 

The easiest thing you can do is try to get ahold of a fuel guage that connects to the fuel rail.
Connect it and leave it hooked up when driving.
Also connect a light bulb to the wiring for the fuel pump and run the bulb to the center console.
Drive it till it acts up and see if the light goes out then you loose fuel pressure. If so the relay is bad. If the bulb stays on and the fuel pressure drops then it stalls the fuel pump is bad.

Usually if the O2 is bad it will smoke black really bad and eventually foul the plugs.

 

I just bought a new fuel pump relay controller on eBay. In few days I will receive it and will be able to test the car.

Few more facts that I forgot to mention - when the problem happened for first time and I opened the hood to take a look, I noticed that the small cooling pipe that connects the radiator and the ECU was disconnected. Probably the computer was overheated because we drive the car like that since we bougt it.

Second thing: I am hearing a misterious alarm sound when the ignition key is plugged in. It will not stop while I am driving. Checked all fuses - all of them seem fine.

Third thing: the car has not been driven for few months. When I bought it, the battery was completely dead and would not charge at all. So I bought and installed a new battery.

When the check engine light came on for first time, the computer gave me 4 error codes that I currently don't know. I just decided to delete them. Only the 2-4-1 code came again. Since my technician cleaned the EGR, the check engine light is off.

 

Definetely it is not the o2 sensor - the smoke seems fine (almost invisible).

 

That hose is no big deal. The climate system cools the computers.

Do the interior lights work?

 

Yes, all indoor lights are working.

The only light issue that the car has is the check light when I press the breaks pedal.

I bought the car with a cracked oil pan. The radiotor was loose and the holding brackets were broken. I attached the radiator to the frame using 2 very big cable ties. The problem happened 2 days after I did that. There were no leaks and the car was perfectly driveable, but the radiator was loose and a little bit below of his normal position.

Could be the coolant sensor, what do you think? The engine tempereture is fine.

 

May be but I doubt it.
That usually makes it run rich to.
It ususlly won't make it stall.

 

Hello Tech,

First of all I would likt to wish you happy Thanksgiving. I hope that you will have a great time

About my old Volvo - I am still waiting for the fuel pump relay.

I noticed today that the ignition wires have not been replaced for 14 years - I can see the yellow mark "93-31".
Could be that the problem? The rotor looks pretty new and the sparks are brand new.

My brother has driven the car today for about 20 miles and it did not stall at all. Sometimes It will stall 3-4 times in a row and sometimes it will drive as expected.

 

I received the fuel pump controller and will install it later today. What do you think about the ignition wires and rotor? Could be that the problem?

 

I doubt it would cause your problem but it is a possibility.

 

Hello Tech,

I installed the fuel pump relay and my Volvo 850 did not make the problem so far (more than a week driving).
The problem has been fixed!

Thank you very much for your help! Me and my technician would never manage it without your help.

 

Glad I could help.

 

My inlaws have the same problem, loss of power, car stalls, wont go over 30mph, etc. half the dash wont light up. the fact that you brought that up makes me wonder. after removing the heat shield on the exhaust manifold i noticed that the egr hole in the drivers side runner is plugged! so my guess is its taken out. what is the possible cause of the problem?

and how do i check for engine codes? sorry i am from the vw and honda scene. i just want to fix their car so that i can get mine back! big heart guy uh!

btw, its a 95 mfi dohc 2.4 non turbo