I got the engine separated from my transmission a couple nights ago, and last night finally got the exhaust manifold and turbo off. It looks like my turbo at the very least needs a rebuid. There is a pretty good amount of lateral play in the shaft. Anyone know of a good place to have one rebuilt?

When i took the exhaust manifold off the gaskets were all toast...which i was kinda expecting. It kinda looked to me like there could have been a couple sets of gaskets on there by the way they fell off. Is that normal? It may have been that if it's a multi-layer gasket, the layers could have separated, but to me it more looked like 2 different shapes.. Curious if that may mean that it was leaking and someone jsut put 2 sets on to band aid the leak.

at this point, seeing how worn and stessed out things are looking, i'm seriously considering just going all out and rebuilding hte engine..i'm doing all the seals anyway...how much more work could it be to do the head gasket, bearings, and stuff.

One thing i am wondering is how to mark the timing belt and timing gears...wanna make sure i get that part right so nothing crashes when ti's put back together.


Here's A couple pics from a couple nights ago before the turbo was off...




I was wondering why the torque converter was blue at first, but it's been pointed out to me that it prolly is just a sign of a rebuilt one.



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Yes the torque converter must be a rebuilt it is not OEM.
Unless the car was run with no oil I wouldn't mess with the bearings.
I have seen bearings on these things with 150k on them and look like new.

 

My thought would to be as long as you have it apart, replace what you believe needs to be replaced...if anything, for the peace of mind. If Tech says the bearings are probably good, I would believe him. Definitely do all seals, hoses, gaskets, etc....


As for the timing, I would set it as per the way you would when changing the timing belt. You could also ensure #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke, and then mark the camshafts and crank pulley. As always, turn it over by hand a few times after it is all together to make sure nothing will bind/ crash.

Good luck,

Glenn

 

is there a way to check the condition of the bearings without pulling the crankshaft out?

I think there was one time that the oil was pretty damn low when i had it changed it was barely shoting on the dipstick. That and I don't know at all how the previous owners of the car treated it...

 

You could put a dial indicator on the crank and check for play. Problem is I don't know if there are any specs. A good engine rebuiling shop could give you an idea though if Volvo doesn't have the info.

Keep the crankshaft lined up with the mark and I believe it can't hit the valves. Don't put it on TDC for #1 cylinder! Then it may hit a valve if the belt is off and the crankshaft is turned.

If it were me, I would probably do the head gasket (It's a lot easier now!) and look at the cylinders while you have the head off and make a further determination at that point about the lower end.

That torque converter is scary looking! It's not a Volvo part, probably rebuilt by a transmission shop.

B

 

When you say check for play, are you thinking to put the indicator on the shaft and spin it to see if it's wobbleing, or more for in and out play on the axis of the shaft?

Wouldn't it spin differently now compared to if it had oil being pumped through it since it wouldn't be 'floating' on the oil anymore?

 

Nice work. I believe the exhaust gaskets are multi layer. Usually there is a middle metal and then a layer on each side of that. On the bearings, I messed around with some on a 740 and it was not fun. The engine was in the car though so your story will be easier. I had just dropped the pan and took the bearing caps off.

I would do the valve seals if I was going to have the headgasket off anyway. That is just me though. YMMV.

Good job!

 

Yes check for in and out play on the crank.
No way to inspect the crank bearings without splitting the lower halves of the engine.
But if you want to remove the oil pan I would pull one rod bearing cap and inspect those bearings they would give you a good idea of the rest of them.

As long as the oil was still showing on the dipstick when you checked it you should still be fine.
I have seen cars go 3 quarts down many times and not cause all that much damage.

 

Got the flexplate off and mounted the engine to the engine stand today. Also started cleaning up the outside of the block a bit. I thought i did really well, until i was going to start taking off the oil pan, then i realized the through holes we used for the engine mount were the lower holes...on the oil pan part of the block. DOH!



So that made for a good stopping point for tonight since i'll have to get some more help to reposition the engine stand.


I was going to replace the bearing inside the crankshaft that the flexplate attaches to or maybe the torque converter... I got the clip out, but didn't try to get the old bearing out yet. What's the best way to do that?




When taking off the engine bracket for the front engine mount, the upper bolt looked like it had some white goo on it...wasn't sure if this was a sealant that i would need to have on there when i put it back in. It wasn't the typical white rust buildup that i've seen on other bolts.



I pulled the distributor cap, and i think the hole on the block may be stripped one of the 3 bolts was out all the way already, and the bolt pretty much slides in and out w/ little friction. I'll take a closer look at it tomorrow. If it is stripped is Helicoil the way to go for fixing it (assuming it can't be cleaned out w/ a tap)..? I've never used them myself so i don't know how well helicoils work. Also noticed some oil dripping out from behind the rotor...so i'm plannin on going those seals now too.




Tomorrow will attack the oil pan, and maybe the valve cover gasket. Gotta start thinking about pulling the timing belt sometime soon. Any tricks for that one?



Also tried on the new exhaust manifold...looks a lot better than the old one..that's for sure!






Cleaned up and done for the night...

 

Helicoils work very well. Just follow the instructions and you'll be fine.

Good luck.
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I would check the threads and the bolt very well.

Are you sure it is a bearing where the torque converter meets the engine?
Usually it is just a metal sleeve.

The white on the screw just looks like corrosion.

 

VADIS is showing bearings on both sides of the torque converter now that I look closer

#23 below
Part Number: 9495017 - Sealing Ring




And this one in the crankshaft - #15
Part Number: 3507190 - Bearing Bushing



I have the one for the crankshaft already...bought it a while ago when i first looked at the diagram, but didn't notice the sealing ring on the trans side until now.