Hey all,
I have posted several questions on here in the process of removing my engine for a RMS leak and a desire to replace all hoses and leaking seals. I finally got it out this afternoon and wanted to post a few photos. A load leveler made the job a whole lot easier. I wrestled for 3 hours last night with no luck, got a load leveler, and it took 45 minutes. I am going to photo the assembly if possible, too freaked out to remember to do it taking it apart. If the old adage of "installation is the reverse of removal then I will organize the photos end to start and it should show the removal.

could not get my drivers side axle off the trans but pulled it fine with axle still on. It is in the garage now and I am going to replace all timing belt pulleys, tensioner, and belt as well as the RMS and all hoses. 140k miles on it and if I take my time and replace everything that is questionable it should be rock solid for another 140k.

That picture that show orange looking gasket maker between the trans and engine, is that a sign this puppy was pulled before? Or is that normal on the 97 850?

Rob

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Seems like you need an answer pretty quickly. I have no clue, but try VolvoSpeed.com also.

I've found that using these two sites in conjunction is very very helpful.

 

↑+1

JPN

 

That is normal sealer from the factory!!

 

Hi Tech, always good to hear from you.


JPN

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Thanks. Nice Cobra pic!!

 

Hey Tech and JPN.
Thanks for the advice. Glad to know that is sealer from the factory. Tech, I got the driveshaft out about an hour ago. I whacked it with the pry bar and a hammer and after 10 blows it started to move out maybe a quarter of an inch and from there it slid out smooth as silk. No damage done to it. New shaft seals may be in order for good measure. I removed most of the transmission to engine bolts but may have missed one or will be fighting getting the trans case away from the engine. I have all 6 torque converter screws out. It was dark as my brother-in-law [>:]stole an extension cord from me while I was out of town. I needed the compressor so the searching for bolts was with a flashlight and dim work light. [:'(] He has not earned the death sentence yet but don't mess with my tools and cords when I am out of town. I have killed men for less! I am dying to know if that RMS is torn or ripped the way it was dumping oil at a quart per 100 miles.

I will keep those interested up to date with photos, etc. I hope to put together a FAQ with photos after this is all over. Off to order some parts.

Thanks again,
Rob

 

Hi Rob,

Glad the stubborn drive shaft finally gave up. Yes it's definitely worth putting in new seals for the shafts. I also assume some tranny fluid leaked out, so you may want to have some Dexron-III/Mercon handy.

I thought of RMS=Root Mean Square([8D]), but I just got it=Rear Main Seal.

Yes messing with someone else's tool is a good cause for death sentence[8D].

Please do update the progress; some people are dying to know.

Regards,


JPN

 

Glad it came out.
I believe there is 5 screws across the top and 2 in the front to under and 2 or 3 in the back.
But you have to remove the hydrolic mount and brackets to get to all of them.

 

Hey all,
Made a little more progress tonight. Last night I got the drive axle out,,,, I think it was last night. Tonight I managed to seperate the transmission and engine, and got the torque converter out as well as removed the flywheel. I have pictures of it I will attach. I messed around about an hour and got to the RMS and it looks like it was the source of my leak without a doubt. I am having a hard time getting the seal out. Is there a seal puller or something of that sort? I poked around with a flat head and mucked up one piece of the seal but did not want to risk a gouge in the crank or anything so I stopped for the night and cleaned up my tools.

Any tips on the seal, like drilling a small hole and running a screw in to pull it? To risky????

Thanks,
Rob

 

The rest of the photos..

 

The only time I saw one of my cars disassembled like that I almost had a heart attack

 

I guess it is time to buy a couple of cases of brake cleaner. Lots of built up oil to remove. Anyone know if the brown specks on the torque converter are a bad sign or is that normal? Not a sign of overheated transmission fluid is it? Drove fine and shifted fine so hopefully I can clean it up and put it back in if I ever get the RMS out. Shop manual says to use a screw driver to pry it out.

Rob

 

Axelm,
I am not too worried about it, Yet. I tried to label hoses and wires really well with white duct tape and a black sharpy. I have to get my own hoist, the load leveler made a breeze of angling it out. I need to flush my trans cooler tomorrow and get that new rms in and bolt the trans back to the engine. From there I plan to replace all hoses, the timing belt and all timing belt components while the engine is still out. That should make it rock solid for another 140k miles. I have lofty goals!

Anyone know if I need to clean thetorque converter with solvent or can I just drain the fluid from it and let it refill with new fluid when I reinstall everything?

Thanks,
Rob

 

Hi Rob,

Your garage now looks like a professional shop.

I am not sure as to the specks on the torque converter, as well as draining & refilling. I assume the specks are all right, as long as you didn't notice any problem with the transmission. Upon reassembly, make sure to keep out even the smallest foreign object, but what do I know, you know it better than I do.

As to RMS, here's a quotefrom Volvo manual:

"Pry out seal with screwdriver. Tap in new greased seal using Drift (5430) and Installer (1801). Install flywheel. Apply Loctite to new bolts and tighten to 33ft lbs (45 NM). Plus, an additional 50 degrees."

I believe the gadgets with parenthesis are Volvo tools but theycan probably be substituted with generic tools. Tech would be able to tell you an accurate info on this. If a screwdriver didn't do the job, you could perhaps try an awl/pick?

I also thought that it wouldn't' hurt to replace engine/transmission mounts, as well as cleaning/replacing PCV components.

I hope this is of some use.


JPN

 

Hi JPN,
Good to hear from you. I did manage to get the RMS out finally with a flat head screwdriver. I am going to have to get the cat litter out to clean that floor and absorb the oil before the wife sees it. []

I am planning to replace all the PCV hoses this go round. I did the oil trap and flame trap but my hoses "seemed" clear so I just put new clamps on them. That was about 4 months ago or maybe longer than that. This time I will order all the hoses to make sure. The oil trap is still pretty new, maybe 400 miles on it since I changed it. I will throw a new flame trap on there, I keep a couple around for oil changes. Very cheap insurance but the previous owner never changed it so that is why I am changing the RMS. The mounts I did not even think about but that is a pretty good idea. I will check them over really well. The upper engine support mount is of course cracked in the bushing. I am thinking about the 3 piece urethane for a replacement. Heard bad things about vibrations with those. I could just as easily have the shop down the road press the volvo bushing in if I take them the bracket. What did you have on your engine stabilizer bar, the upper one?

I think on the torque converter I will just dump all the fluid I can out, clean the exterior of it and make sure all is spotless when I bolt the transmission back to the engine. I am going to run a quart or so of fresh Dextron 3 through the transmission cooler by pouring it in through the top and watching for clean to come out of the bottom of the cooler. That should flush the dirty out and assure clean fluid in the cooler.

With any luck I will have the new RMS in tommorrow and maybe even have the trans back together on the engine. I have to go see an Orthopedic Surgeon at 2:15 tomorrow so once I am out of there I will call it a day for work and come on home. That will give me a couple of hours extra, assuming they don't put me back in an ankle boot. My stupid achilles tendon on my right foot is giving me fits.

I cleaned out the bell housing on the transmission real good tonight after I popped the seal out. The flywheel was pretty easy to get off but use a 17mm 12 point socket. I picked up a torque angle gauge so I will be in business when it comes time to tighten everything up.

Dual pry bars rule when prying the flywheel or the drive axles off. Using one makes the other side want to dig in and bind. With 2 180 degrees opposite it makes things so much easier.

I need lots of brake cleaner to get all the mounts and frame cleaned up. Need to find a special at walmart on a case. [&:]

Talk to you later,
Rob

 

Good evening Rob,

> I am going to have to get the cat litter out to clean that floor and absorb the oil before the wife sees it.
Yes indeed, your safety first.

The PCV components seem they're good for many more miles/years. Yes I had the upper engine stabiliser. I believe FCP Groton sells the bushings. I've only replaced the pax-side mount.

I'm sorry about the Achilles tendon problem.Imyself am suffering mind-weakening problem (this can happen to anyone, after living in the States for a long time and suddenly being returned to Japan[8D]).

>Dual pry bars rule when prying the flywheel or the drive axles off. Using one makes the other side want to dig in and bind. With 2 180 degrees opposite it makes things so much easier.

Yes indeed, we all hate that "see-saw" effect. One note on the brake cleaner spray. Be careful not to inhale it; I once used it with a Styrofoam dish under the brakes and the next thing I knew, the dish was melting[:-]. This can't be good for your lungs.

Good night,


JPN

 

Hey JPN,
Sorry about the "mind weakening" problem. That really stinks that all that happened with the Visa.

I agree on the brake cleaner. Great stuff, much easier to use than engine degreaser but it does leave behind what has to be "harmful vapors." My garage is like a basement/garage due to the way the house is built into a hill and I used about 1/2 a can on the subframe to get rid of oil from the seal leak. An hour later I opened the basement door to go to the garage and the fumes hit me like a ton of bricks at the top of the stairs. I have a gas hot water heater down there too so I left the garage door cracked open to prevent a build up of flammable gas.

I just want everything to be nice and clean when it goes back in. Probably need degreaser and a hose for that. [&:] The cat litter is sokaing up the transmission fluid as I type. My goal today is to get the converter drained and back in and the tranmission bolted back to the engine. My torque angle gauge came in so I am ready for it. If I get the "all clear" from the Doctor I will be down there at it tonight. If not, I will be lurking on the board somewhere.

Rob

 

Definatly a good sprucing up of your car.

Nick

 

Hi Rob,

I do hope that you get all clear from your Doc.

Yes, brake cleaners are harmful, if sufficient quantity is inhaled. I don't know what ingredient caused the Styrofoam dish to melt, I may do a research on it. When I use engine degreaser (Gunk brand from Walmart, about $2/can), I use vapouriser (in the pic) to wash it off, as I'm afraid of soaking the engine.

>I just want everything to be nice and clean when it goes back in.
I'm always like that too.

Good night,


JPN

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