I don't know anything about brake cleaners and what's in them. But if they are petrolium based, there's your culprit.

 

Here's info from MSDSin PDF format for everyone's benefit:

http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/cg...uct_detail.jsp

*Toluene: 22-32%
Methanol: 15-25%
Acetone: 45-55%
CO2: Less than 10%

*Toluene may be the main culprit. In Japan, delinquent teenagers like to inhale toluene (or may be different stuff as of now) and they're missing some teeth. Pretty bad stuff if mishandled.

Danger:
Extremely flammable. Vapour harmful. Harmful or fatal if swallowed. May be fatal or cause blindness if swallowed. Eye & skin irritant.

Potential Health Effects:
Inhalation: Dizziness, breathing difficulties, anesthetic effects, nausea and irritation to respiratory tract.
Eyes: Irritation.
Skin: Irritation, defatting.
Ingestion: NA.

Chronic Overexposure:
Contact dermatitis. Chronic overexposure may cause nervous system damage.

Medical Conditions Aggravated by Exposure:
Breathing problems.

First Aid Measures:
Inhalation: Remove to fresh air. Give artificial respiration if necessary.
Eyes: Flush with large amounts of water for 15 minutes.
Skin: Remove contaminated clothing and wash area with soap and water.
Ingestion: Call a physician. Do not induce vomiting.

This MSDS is for CRC Brakleen only, and other products may have different ingredients.


JPN

 

Dont forget to put some Loctite on the flywheel screws when installing them.
Or oil will leak out from the screws.

 

Thank for that info Tech. Will locktite be okay or should i use RTV at the head of the bolt and coat the threads with locktite? Never heard of locktite being used for sealing but I guess the threads get blocked by it. That must be the white stuff on my bolts, locktite from the factory. Medium okay or does it need to be heavy duty?

Thanks again,
Rob

Hope to work on it some tomorrow but we are packing and preparing to head to your part of the World next Friday. Wife seems to be in charge of all of my time right now.[:@]

 

Medium will be fine.
I use red because thats all we have there.
Loctite only will be fine.

 

>Hope to work on it some tomorrow but we are packing and preparing to head to your part of the World next Friday. Wife seems to be in charge of all of my time right now.[:@]

I believe your wife will be sitting in the "captain" side? Be sure to follow her commands[8D].

It may not hurt to have some oil & pre-mix coolant in the trunk of your wife's vehicle during the trip.

Have a safe trip,


JPN

 

Hey JPN and Tech,
I don't think I am taking it to Florida. I have not even installed the new seal yet. After that I have to bolt it all together. Have to run to Autozone for some locktite, I am fresh out. We are going in two cars to Orlando, she is taking her parents and my daughter down early so I will probably rent a car or take my Explorer. I will be in Orlando for a week and then head home while she and her parents head to Vero Beach for another week. That leaves me a week to PLAY which translates to working on the car at my own pace and washing my hands anywhere in the house and not getting fussed at.

I am going to try to get that seal in today and get the flywheel back on. May have to get an extra set of muscles to lift the trans back into place and run a couple of bolts in. IF I get it together today I will post some pics.

Anyone know if I need to fill the torque converter with fluid if I dump the old out? Will it fill on its own or do I need to put some in?

Thanks,
Rob

 

Hi Rob,

If the torque converter came off with fluid in it, it is natural to think that it should be filled upon re-assembly. However, this is only my assumption, and Tech would definitely be able to tell you an accurate info.

Good luck on re-assembly. Look forward to hearing good news.

Sincerely,


Kanji/JPN

P.S: I finally hit the 4-digit on this reply.

 

You can add some if you want to. But it should fill up when you start the car.

 

Thanks Tech, that is what I needed to know. I guess I will just let it fill on its own. I guess adding some would not make a big mess though if I was careful.

Thanks,
Rob

 

Well,
I have ruined the new RMS I think. I tried to drive it in the a piece of 4 inch pvc drain pipe and teh spring is all crimped up. I am attaching a photo of it. I am assuming I will have to get another RMS but anyone know how to prevent this from happening again? I loaded the inner part where the spring was up with grease and it still wiggled its way out.

Rob

 

Well, the seal is shot, chunk of it came out when I pulled it. Guess this project is on hold till a new one comes in. Dang it![:@]

Rob

 

Hi Rob,

I'm sorry to hear about the incident, but we ALL do things like that once a while. When I was 23, I bought a water pump for my Accord at a dealer, placed it on the roof of the car before I got in, drove away and did not notice until about a half hour later. I went back to the dealer, found the water pump on the side of the road, run over by God knows how many cars/trucks. That was the end of my $70.

Anyway, I'll attach a page from Volvo manual, which is probably similar to Haynes. The page indicates three Volvo tools for RMS re-installation (Gear Sector to keep the crankshaft from moving-5112, Drift-5430, Installer-1801). I wonder if you can visit a local dealer to see if they can show you what the tools look like, unless Haynes does mention alternative methods. Or Tech may know other ways to re-install the RMS.

The seal at FCP Groton is $11.50/ea. I know this is dumb, but I would order two of them just in case, and if it goes fine the next time, I would keepthe other oneas a memento for learning.

Also, after re-installation, you may want to turn the crank with a socket & a breaker bar to see if the seal stays in place without causing damage, unless you've done it already. Or, I wonder if the flywheel has to be in place to prevent the RMS from popping out.

Anyway, I hope it goes fine the next time. Been there & done that, though not the exact situation.


Kanji/JPN

Attachment deleted.

 

LOL, that was a funny story. It reminded me of a friend of mine who put his new mobile phone on the roof of the car while he was searching for his car keys. Then he drove away with the phone still on the roof. Can you believe the phone was found in pretty bad condition about 2 miles from his house?

Regards

 

May my water pump rest in peace.


JPN

 

Thanks guys for the stories. Those were pretty good. May the phone and water pump both rest in peace.
$11.50 from Groton
$26.95 at dealer in stock
$29.99 at Autozone
$56.00 at Advance Auto (Is it gold plated???)

Guess where I am purchasing two from? Yep, JPN, I had thought about getting two "in case" yesterday as I was wallowing in misery staring at my freshly ruined "new" seal. [:@] I guess great minds think alike.

Could not hurt to have two on hand. If nothing else, sell the spare on ebay or something. Our trip may get cancelled so I may have time to mess with it more. My wife's father is ill and we will not know till tuesday if he can go on the trip or not. This was a "big family trip" so I might take a couple of my vacation days and see about making more headway with the car if the trip falls through.

Will post more later,
Rob

 

Hi Rob,

When I did the pax-side cv-joint boot, I went through 3 boots until I finally decided to pull out the drive shaft and replaced both inner & outer boots, as I broke the tangs on the circlip on the outer cv-joint and there was no way of separating the joint. Haynes was not thorough on this procedure; they should have mentioned of the possible risk of dealing with the circlip.

I don't know why AutoZone & Advanced Auto charge so much more than the OEM seal at Groton. For Volvos, I wouldn't buy parts from franchise stores except for items like oil, fluids, light bulbs, etc...

When everything is back in place, I highly recommend that you buy a funnel with long extension to fill the transmission, unless you already have one.

>Yep, JPN, I had thought about getting two "in case"
I think you would've made a great aircraft technician or medical doctor. Unfortunately, airline executives are not aware of the importance of aircraft maintenance and cutting costs & outsourcing it to other countries where labour is cheap.Airlines in Japan are having quite a few problems by doing this (incorrect installation/missing parts, foreign objects lying around, etc...). They get what they pay for[8D].

>Could not hurt to have two on hand. If nothing else, sell the spare on ebay or something.
Or someone here may want to buy it, you never know.

Will wait for updates. I hope it goes fine this time but I would still visit the dealer to see what those special tools look like, just to be perfect.

Regards,


JPN

 

Well,
I am back from vacation and back at working on this beast. I used a tip from Tech and managed to get the new seal around the crank and recessed into the block about 1/4 inch or so. Not sure that is far enough, seeking suggestions. I am thinking of pushing it further in with pipe and a plate using the flywheel bolts. For all I know it is on there far enough, but I would hate to fire it up and find out I was wrong. [:@]
Thanks,
Rob

 

Looks like the seal is seated far enough in. Time now to bolt the flywheel on, bolt the trans to the engine, and bolt the torque converter to the flywheel. got my locktite, torque angle gauge and ready to roll. As time permits I will start reassembling and taking pictures for the FAQ ultimatley.
Rob

[IMG]local://upfiles/1785/BA5E144955CF41E5BDFE26B0D26E4403.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/1785/44643D24742D47ECA79A4A83C1A532F7.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/1785/2F1A059E035040F09EB49B48D3ACC568.jpg[/IMG]

 

Hi Rob,
I am about to pull my 97 850 GLT engine as well.
I would like any information that you would like to share.
I did notice that you will be posting pictures that you took along the way, I am looking foward to seeing them.
My engine has no compression in # 5, so I was thinking about pulling the head to look for valve damage, before either getting a junk yard engine or rebuilding my engine.
I have not see any rebuild kits for it, so do you know where the best place to get parts fora rebuild?

Thanks.....Tom