I've seen a lot of posts about different wheels for 850's and anything aftermarket never really seems to be 'right'. Most (including myself) will opt for a higher-end Volvo wheel, such as the Pegasus, Volans, Tethys or my favorite; Cratos.

 

As promised I said I would post a pic of the difference in my plastic after using "Showroom New." Gotta say for the $16 its very nice. Love it.



It does not fade back either. When it dries, the sheen becomes uniform and the blackness remains. Good stuff. I will order more when the bottle runs out. Did the back bumper and side trim, still have 1/2 bottle left.

While I was in there, I went ahead and cleaned under the side trim. They come out really easy (just one screw each in the back of the door jam- careful not to drop it!

I also waxed the area for the heck of it.



Next was to do something about the window trim. I decided to pull the plastic off of the top and polish the aluminum underneath as best I could. Not perfect, but much better.

Before:


After:


Also not sure about this, but it looks like my passenger wiper is cutting into the hood. This is with it pulled back just a bit, it rests on the hood when in the "rest" position. The wiper seems to be where it should be on the windshield.

 

Your car has V70 roof rails. I also installed them on my 850. The only problem is that they dump water inside the car when it rains and the door is opened.

I painted the roof rails with bumper paint, looks good on the S70 that I did. You can also use that plastic dip paint.

The wiper arm bolt may just be loose. Should not contact the hood. When tight, it pulls it down closer to the windshield. Take a full pic of the blade so we can see if the proper arm is installed.

 

Glad you brought this up. I have a set of standard rails I just bought on e-bay. I'm going to paint them with VHT bumper paint and put them on my wagon as soon as I get time.

Dumb question on installation though -- how far under the rail should the existing roof molding go? Looking at things after roughly mounting the rail, it would seem you could possibly want to cut it at the point of the first "mount" on the bottom of the rail so some rubber goes under the rail. I guess you could also cut it at the very end of the rail but that would leave a gap that water could get into unless you made a perfect cut. Let me know what you think.

 

Got the new Volans in today. The wheels look decent, about what I was expecting. Two of the tires are garbage, despite being described as "80%." It looks like I need a new set for the back. Ugh.

No doubt about it, these sure change the look of the car.

 

Forgot to mention; the wiper arms are different lengths, between the bottom where they're bolted on and the hinge. Odds are good that they've been reversed.

 

I had mine balanced with stick on lead weights, instead of the kind that clamp around the edge of the wheel. Much cleaner look IMO. Wasn't significantly more than the clamp on weights.

They look good on your car!

 

Well I got a new problem now. Seem to have a pretty big vibration coming from the back. It was there with the old tires and I thought it was just a tire with a flat spot from sitting for so long. Still there.

Anyways...almost feels like a flat or something. The whole car just kinda "bounces" down the road, almost like I had a flat. Ideas?

 

Rear Shock Mounts. Mine were completely destroyed and I got a nasty bounce around 40 mph. I'm sure it looked totally ghetto as I headed down the highway.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...mounts#p136486

 

Ok, here is an update. I am getting some fault codes after driving the car for about 30 miles. They are as follows:

P0331
P1310
P0304

Also loading a youtube video of my vibration issues. Will post it soon.

Alex

 

0331 - rear knock sensor
1310 - general misfire
0304 - misfire on #4

Sounds like a review of Stage 0 is in order.

 

Here is a video of the vibration. It really sounds a lot like road noise, I wish the camera picked it up better.


Alex

 

Hard to tell from the video. How are the shocks & struts? Have you had an alignment? Did you check your shock mounts? It's easy to check them; remove the rear hatch cover and they're right there. You just have to bounce up & down to see how they hold up.

FCP has a complete suspension kit for $600 ~ $700 which you may need. I installed everything myself from reading how to do it all here and over at MVS. It's missing the inner tie rods, but you can toss those in the basket, too!

Looking real good. Nice job.

 

where did you buy your rims? need one. check your axles, mine was going and had vibrations from 40mph on the highway after tire balancing. vibration vanished after changing my drivers side axle. also how good are your tires? that counts. worn suspension will make your car bounce around on rough roads.

 

replacing axle was pretty straight forward for me. didnt remove noo brake calipers, just loosened up the axle nut, my strut bolts and baam it came off. should have have shot a video of it.

 

My Uncle was saying the lack of hub centric rings might cause this. Searching google I have not found anything on installing them or checking to see if they are there, anyone have a picture of them installed? That would be an easy fix.

Alex

 

Are you talking about the CV axles? He said the problem is in the rear.

Video: Where is your seat belt??? This is a Volvo MAN!!!

Alex, how do you like the car so far, other than the rear end bouncing, how do you like the car?

 

Haha, a bad habbit of mine! I should wear my seatbelt more often...

As for liking the car, I don't have an opinion on it yet as far as using it as a driver. I have only put 20 or so miles on it, as I have not figured out this vibration issue, and one tire is far enough gone it worries me. I have not ever registered it yet, so it will probably happen next week sometime.

Going to put two new tires on the back, as well as find the hub centric rings and see if that does not take care of the vibration issue. I really want to have that worked out first. Then I will start using her as my driver.

Alex

 

Well, I swapped back one of my snow tires in the rear and the vibration went away. Lesson I guess is never rule anything out just cause you replaced it. Rides nice and smooth now.

Now I am tracking down my oil leaks. It leaks....a LOT. Pain in the butt. I'm still trying to figure out where it is coming from. I was expecting a lot under the turbo, but it does not seem to be in that area. It looks more below the timing area. After looking around I found this:



You can see oil down near where the timing cover slips into the lower cover. Funny, but it seems to come from behind there somewhere. That brings me to this:



The hard hose dead center of the image. Please tell me this is a water line. It took forever to get those stupid bolts in, and getting the gasket to fit in was a nightmare. I am really hoping I do not have to get back in there. Could that be my source? What goes in that line, oil or coolant?

Alex

 

That hard hose is a coolant line for the turbo. As for the oil, have you checked the cam seals? I haven't read through much of this but I can't think of much else that would leak under the timing cover. Since you've done a full head job, I really can't say what it is that's leaking.I decided to read the whole thread through and get an idea on what you've done so far. Just to be sure, has the PCV system been checked or serviced? I read a lot about plugged a PCV system causing the cam seals to blow out. I would replace that other rubber coolant line in the picture if possible. Mine was dry and brittle. I pulled it to rebuild my turbocharger and it tore away. It didn't even leak or swell. Just broke.