Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Freshening up the rear suspension

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Old Jul 1, 2016 | 10:54 AM
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Default Freshening up the rear suspension

Rockauto likes to have different names for the same thing. An example is this part, which I need to replace, the lateral link / control arm bushing / axle beam mount

LEMFORDER 2681501 $207 each
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...0603&jsn=10603

DORMAN 523127 $134 each
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...8852&jsn=10620

ÜRO PARTS 3516122 $38 each
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...8852&jsn=10638

I'm sure the Lemforder is superior and probably OEM. But I can't afford it. I actually can't afford the Dorman either.

So I'm wondering if anyone has used ÜRO PARTS 3516122 and is it worth the effort it takes to replace it? Unless somebody tells me it is a complete pos and that the Dorman is very similar to the Lemforder and is 100% worth the extra money then I'm going to buy the ÜRO.

Thanks
Shawn
 
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Old Jul 1, 2016 | 11:49 AM
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I've been using a lot of Uro parts lately myself, however I don't have any experience with these rear links (haven't gotten into the rear suspension yet).

So far I have no complaints. I will say this much though (based on my observations on the front outer tie rods): Make sure you have a grease gun handy as well as a needle valve. Like most budget brand parts (in my experience), they don't seem to use a lot of grease. My outer tie rod ends will need a couple extra pumps for good measure, just to be on the safe side.

AFAIK Lemforder is the OE supplier for Volvo on these. That would probably be your best bet. Dorman does make a quality part, and if you can't afford the Lemforder I wouldn't hesitate to pick up a Dorman instead.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2016 | 01:29 PM
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Thanks for the reply.

I've got another question too. My vin is YV1LW5714R2024384. Monroe lists struts...

MONROE 71699
After Chassis # YVLS....S.175000; After Chassis # YVLW....S.078000

MONROE 71518
To Chassis # YVLS....R.174999; To Chassis # YVLW....R.077999

MONROE 71517
To Chassis # YVLS....R.174999; To Chassis # YVLW....R.077999

I can't exactly figure out where mine fits in there.

Thanks
Shawn
 
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Old Jul 1, 2016 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Mind Source
Thanks for the reply.

I've got another question too. My vin is YV1LW5714R2024384. Monroe lists struts...

MONROE 71699
After Chassis # YVLS....S.175000; After Chassis # YVLW....S.078000

MONROE 71518
To Chassis # YVLS....R.174999; To Chassis # YVLW....R.077999

MONROE 71517
To Chassis # YVLS....R.174999; To Chassis # YVLW....R.077999

I can't exactly figure out where mine fits in there.

Thanks
Shawn

Your chassis number is usually the last 6 digits of your VIN number. So you have chassis 024384 which falls in range of the last 2 that you listed
 
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 07:12 AM
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there are some other cheap brands of that rear delta link.
fcp has one called "Pro Parts Sweden" for $32
ipd has some brand (not telling) on sale for $29.99
 
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 09:44 AM
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I've used URO parts, and I paid for it twice the two times I used it. One to buy URO, another to buy quality parts to replace URO in a few short months. URO parts is what you call, penny wise, pound foolish. They may look ok, but they will wear itself out in less than a year.

Few months old URO vs new Dayco







 

Last edited by tryingbe; Jul 2, 2016 at 03:25 PM.
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Mind Source
$145
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...FZNafgodw1QOfw
 
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 11:34 AM
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Wow, those pictures really tell the tale. I think I'll have to dust off the wallet then. I'm basically doing a major restoration on the car, might as well do it right. The Canadian dollar is weak and shipping here is a pain, But I don't want to be working on this car during the school year. And I really don't want to be working on it in the winter. I live in Winnipeg. It's basically Siberia without the long string of dictators.

Thanks for that link. I'll probably have it shipped here. Border customs are a real hit and miss. I've had nice guys who just waved me through, and I've had some pants loaded shockers that doubled the price of what I bought.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 03:26 PM
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You'll also need a special tool to replace that bushings, get it before attempting!
 

Last edited by tryingbe; Jul 3, 2016 at 05:43 PM.
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 09:05 PM
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I saw some right ups of guys using a torch and basically destroying the old one to get it out and then pushing the new one in. Is this not a thing?
 
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 05:43 PM
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http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/mvs...haring-program
 
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 08:18 PM
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Thanks
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 02:38 AM
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Quick Question.

Are the left and right rear trailing arm bushings the same?

FCP only has genuine Volvo left rear
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...181013-9181014

They sure look the same for left and right, if so I can buy two of those.

I assume Proparts Sweden and Meyle are crap?

Thanks
Shawn
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 04:09 AM
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Another layer to the story. I found this part.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...-inner-9181027
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 04:33 AM
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Pelican Parts says it's this.

Support Arm Anchorage 9181027 - Volvo | Pelican Parts

Hoping to order everything today once I find out for sure.

Do these genuine Volvo sets come with the bolts? The pictures for the cheap brands show bolts but none with the Volvo brand. If not then which bolts are needed?

Thanks
Shawn
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 11:19 PM
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Well, I bought one of each.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 11:32 PM
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Looks like FCP also carries a brand Febi which is made in China and affiliated with Bilstein. Also about $35.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 11:41 PM
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I just hope the Volvo one's I ordered come with bolts, We'll soon find out. I must say, aside from the trailing arm links, the parts for this car where reasonably priced. I hope I can get all the parts to my house and on the car before we go on it's maiden voyage to Toronto next month.
 
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