Trying to help my friend with his base and I do mean base '95 850. I have 3 things I'd like some help with.

1. What all will I need to snag to do a power seat swap?

2. What is wrong with these brakes? The pedal goes about 3/4th of the way to the floor before they grab.

3. Does he need strut mounts or spring seats? When I bounce the car the top nut goes up and down with the body.

 

1. The harness should be there for the power seat. For it to plug into, however, I do not believe it is powered. I tried converting my passenger manual seat to power seat and even though the harness was there and I supplied it with a 12V power source. I could not get it to work. I dug through a wiring diagram and it looks like the power seat memory controls and everything are linked into the interior wire harness more than what is there. You can try it, but I wish you the best of luck and I don't think you'll get it to work.

2. Have you tried flushing them with new fluid and bleeding the brakes?

3. Strut mount bolts to the strut tower and is stationary, strut/spring sits in the spring seat which rests underneath the strut mount, I would say spring seat.

 

+1 on the spring seat, as far as the brakes i would try a good bleed and flush should make a big difference.

 

There is a nice set of power seats in the jy. Is there a missing relay maybe?

 

Check out the wiring diagram for the memory seats, there's a bunch or wires that go somewhere that isn't in a non-power car. Someone said all you have to do is jump the power for the seat in the plug, but I tried a few different ways to get the power seat to work and I could not figure it out. This is when I installed my S70 T5-SE interior and I ended up just putting the seat skins from the passenger power seat onto a manual seat frame.

 

I read somewhere that you have to get the circuit breakers that go in the fuse box to get the seats to work.

 

Not all cars are wired for the power seats. I know my wifes 96 is not wired for the passenger side seat. I used a relay and tapped into the passenger side seat heater wiring. You turn on the heated seat switch and move the seat then turn it back off. LOL

 

Custom wire the seat in, constant power feeding through a relay (forgot exact Volvo # for the relay 4 Pin one) to keep from burning a wire, and there you have it. I wouldn't worry about all the extra wiring. It goes into the CCM, and that is a completely different ball game, different computers, ect.

I routinely have to remove power seats to get stuff that jammed up in the gears or track. I test the seat by running a hot wire through. Works just fine -- just re-engineer it to work in the car and easy swap.

 

LOL, sounds easy to you. Remember, you're the one that can do a PCV without moving parts that others have to in 1-1/2 hours.

 

all about the tools buddy. 4 special sockets and 2 extensions. ratchet. all 1/4 inch. 27 torx. small screw driver. side cutters. My hands.

 

Well, the drivers side works great (seat), however the passenger side has no wires other than the seat heaters. But there is not seat heater switches.

 

run just as you would doing a custom radio install, tap the fuse box, run some 12-14 GA wire.

 

The guy wants the carpet out of the donor car so I'm going to see what the wires look like. I don't run custom stereo's. I actually removed the after market stereo from my wagon and installed a OEM head. I also picked one out of this donor car as well.

 

oh....wasn't sure I used to do custom custom....plixi glass, or fiberglass, or custom MDF (im a wood worker/carpenter as well) in the back, components, amps, and a head unit in the back of hondas and such (they were way to tiny to be packing that much equipment) for shows and stuff. One of my creations got 3rd in a region DB comp (that was the Tahoe)

BTW the OEM radios were simple to use, but way limited for what the speakers were capable of. Most of the OE radios out there are only 14 RMS or lower. The plane jane nothin fancy Kenwood (2nd best on market -- Kenwood, under Alpine) I run in my Cherokee. (1700 watt total output system I have in it) is 22 RMS output, way clearer and more powerful, and cost only $75.

 

Got the rest of the part to get this car cleaned up and to stage 0. About $600 in parts, including a nice dash, leather seats, carpet, control arm kit, PCV, knock sensors, etc. Less than 2 car payments.

 

Wow!!! Worked on this car almost all day. Left the control arms for last (with say bar end links) which was probably a mistake. The car really looks and drives good. Still need to fix about 4 more things and he'll be good to go.

 

Well, I now have a trip computer for sale, the one I got does not fit in the Yazaki cluster that my friend has in his car. This trip computer is for VDO clusters. Anyone wanting a Volvo trip computer for their car pm me. It will NOT fit Volvo 850's that have trip odo's with seperate digits in the trip computer area.

The trip computer tells you the following:

- Average MPH's since last reset.
- Current MPG real time.
- Current MPG average since last reset.
- Outside temp.
- Miles traveled trip computer since last reset.
- Miles to empty gas warning (usually very accurate, within 5 miles).



If interested pm me.