front brake pads
#1
front brake pads
A question (eventually) for you.
Just replaced the pads on the front recently since I was getting a lot of squeak. Made a couple of mistakes along the way but figured it out in the end. First mistake was not actually checking that the front pads needed changing before buying the pads. Oops! Took off the old and there was plenty of meat left. Turns out the rear were the ones squeaking. Oops again!
So the changeover went smoothly for this first-timer although it untimately wasn't required. I did however come across something that I found curious. The pads on the right hand side were very even in wear. However the left side had the inward pad worn about 3-4mm more than the other 3. Thought it was odd since the pads were still quite endowed with material. They probably weren't more than a year old. What could the wear on only one pad mean?
Just replaced the pads on the front recently since I was getting a lot of squeak. Made a couple of mistakes along the way but figured it out in the end. First mistake was not actually checking that the front pads needed changing before buying the pads. Oops! Took off the old and there was plenty of meat left. Turns out the rear were the ones squeaking. Oops again!
So the changeover went smoothly for this first-timer although it untimately wasn't required. I did however come across something that I found curious. The pads on the right hand side were very even in wear. However the left side had the inward pad worn about 3-4mm more than the other 3. Thought it was odd since the pads were still quite endowed with material. They probably weren't more than a year old. What could the wear on only one pad mean?
Last edited by vpatrol; 11-05-2009 at 11:39 PM.
#2
#4
#5
#6
#7
you need to lube everything really well. I buy the ATE plastilube from FCP groton and it has cured my brake squeals. I've taken my brakes apart too many times this year and found how critical it is to lube everything.
incidentally the rubber that surrounds the guide pin has a cap to seal it on the OEM version but no cap on the aftermarket version. If you need to replace the calipers do yourself a favor and buy the OEM brake hardware that comes with the caliper bracket so you can lube it and seal it from the elements. : )
incidentally the rubber that surrounds the guide pin has a cap to seal it on the OEM version but no cap on the aftermarket version. If you need to replace the calipers do yourself a favor and buy the OEM brake hardware that comes with the caliper bracket so you can lube it and seal it from the elements. : )
#8
What needs to be done EVERY YEAR is a brake flush! Your calipers will rust because of the hygroscopic aspect of brake fluid. The fluid absorbs water and holds it in the system. I personally rotate ATE Super blue with "normal" ATE (which is yellow) and that way I know that all the 'old' fluid is removed and the new installed. Of course a benefit of flushing the fluid is a better brake pedal.
r.
r.
#9
Added some no squeal stuff to the rear brakes. They still had a lot of material left. Bendix brand which most over here say are quality. The anti-squeal was an elastomer style stuff. If works for the most part except it still squeals a bit when reversing. Hopefully its not the dreaded non-OEM thing. The brakes didn't squeal when I bought the car. What else might I try. Would half shims work? Do I need specific half shims or are there a number of vehicles who use the same ones?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
booyaolian
Volvo S60 & V60
1
05-24-2008 01:37 PM
dpm2340
Volvo 260, 760 & 960
1
09-21-2006 08:33 PM