Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Front Passenger Window Works Sometimes...

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Old 09-24-2011, 08:50 PM
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Default Front Passenger Window Works Sometimes...

All my power windows for the 1994 850 work except the right passenger side, which comes and goes. It wouldn't go up so I drove it on a bumpy rode while pushing the switch and it went up. Now it goes up but I'm afraid to put it down lest it doesn't want to go up again (disallowing me to lock up).

Does this suggest a loose something or the regular/motor are bad? And is it relatively easy to fix if it is just loose? Do you have any diagrams to show what to take out first before I break things trying to remove the panel? (The Chilton skips instructions assuming you know what the sequence is)

thanks
 
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:12 PM
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It's likely a bad switch. They get carbon build up in them and loose good contact. I have taken them apart and sanded the contacts and put them back together with no reacurring problem. It's is tricky taking them apart and getting them back together properly because they have little springs, pieces, etc. that can get lost or misplaced. Most people just replace the entire switch assembly.

Most of these problem occur because people set stuff between the brake and passenger seat and stuff leaks into the switches when it sweats, etc. You may not have done that but the previous owner may have. Condensation also leaks off the bottom of the cup holder and leaks into the switches.

Link to switches: 1993-1997 Volvo 850 Window Switch Panel
Window Switch Pack 850
Use the discount code on the FCP site and you'll save $$$.
 
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:16 PM
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thanks rspi. But if it were the swtich, would the other 3 windows work without a hitch? Why just the front passenger side? Anyway, I'll remove the console, vacuum, and clean up around the switch (the easy kind of stuff) and see if it improves. How difficult is it to replace the switch?
 
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:21 PM
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If just one of them is acting up it's likely the switch. Usually the drivers side acts up 1st since it's use most often.

You can replace the switch assembly with the console removed. Just cleaning around it will likely not fix it. You can try to spray some contact cleaner in it to see if that helps, but I actually take the switch assembly apart (because I like breaking things down to it's innards).

Does the window go up and down FAST when it's working? If so, it's likely the switch.
 
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:33 PM
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Thanks rspi. I don't know what fast is but the driver's side groans a bit while the back windows are quiet.
 
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:45 PM
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I'm talking about the window you are having problems with. Does it go up and down as fast as the others, when it's working?
 
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Old 09-24-2011, 10:11 PM
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Well, I didn't dare move it up and down to test it, since once it's up, I can at least take it somewhere and lock it but if it's down and won't go up, it's stuck in the driveway. But when it did get it up over that bumpy road, it seemed to go up normally although I could have been so elated I missed the speed.
 
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Old 09-25-2011, 01:15 AM
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Another thing: about 10 years ago, a bolt fell out of the part of the door panel near where that little red reflector is. Does that have anything to do with the channel in which the window sits?
 
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Old 09-25-2011, 01:47 PM
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No. Those crews are just for the panel.

I wish they would have installed a switch in the front doors like they did for the rear seats. Would be nice to have 2 switches. Besides that, it's a pain getting to those switches with there is something in the cup holder. Not to mention the fact that I have over 1,000,000 miles of driving with a switch in my door and I always reach for a switch in the door before I have to regroup and reach the other way. LOL
 

Last edited by rspi; 09-25-2011 at 01:51 PM. Reason: addition
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Old 09-25-2011, 06:25 PM
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Thank goodness, that's nice to know the screw doesn't hold something important like the glass channels or something.

I tried to take out the console (not too hard, as the window is working again but I leave it up). There seems to be a million little hooks and things that must be removed first. Can the switch panel be removed without removing the central console? Is it attached underneath to something? I can remove that piece under the handbrake and see the insides and spray with the contact spray but it will be blind. Thanks rspi.
 
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Old 09-25-2011, 07:13 PM
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I have not been able to get mine out without removing the console. I think the clips are to strong. I would just spray a little from the top.
 
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by rspi
I have not been able to get mine out without removing the console. I think the clips are to strong. I would just spray a little from the top.
Thanks, rspi. I'll try that.
 
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Old 09-26-2011, 11:43 AM
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My pass. side does that too, I've pulled the button off and cleaned the inside where the ball and spring sits but i'll use cleaner on it today.
 
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Old 09-26-2011, 01:08 PM
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Well, I don't know how I pulled all four of them last time, this time even with a small flathead, no luck.

When I go to the junkyard again i'll experiment w/ a donor and break some ****.
 
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:03 AM
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Default stuck windows

Originally Posted by Vmax
My pass. side does that too, I've pulled the button off and cleaned the inside where the ball and spring sits but i'll use cleaner on it today.
I'll try first with the contact spray and see if it helps. And if the console cannot be removed without breaking things, I'll just leave the window up--helps when it rains.
 
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Old 09-29-2011, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Lulumike
Thank goodness, that's nice to know the screw doesn't hold something important like the glass channels or something.

I tried to take out the console (not too hard, as the window is working again but I leave it up). There seems to be a million little hooks and things that must be removed first. Can the switch panel be removed without removing the central console? Is it attached underneath to something? I can remove that piece under the handbrake and see the insides and spray with the contact spray but it will be blind. Thanks rspi.
Update on the console for those who have not taken it out--like me--just a warning. I did finally managed to remove (most of) the console, which was surprisingly rather painless. But one thing about it that those who haven't taken it out should know: it's counter-intuitive. The part that you think would come out doesn't, but stays, the part that stays comes out. But thanks to Chilton's, the hidden screws were all exposed and I didn't break anything. My only question now is, how do you remove the shift ****? Does it come out? If not, I can still get to the window switch since the console has come out enough.
 
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:37 AM
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Shift ****, pull up real hard.
 
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Old 09-30-2011, 03:43 AM
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There are two what looks like c clips at the base. I'm not sure what they're holding since they're under the **** and on the rod holding the ****. I read somewhere else that pulling the **** out means you cannot use it again since it breaks stuff inside. Is that true or can I use the **** again? Another diagram shows that it unscrews. Maybe a difference in the model year? Also, do I need to take out the **** to put a new boot on?
 
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:52 AM
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Well, since I'm good at repeating myself, PULL REAL HARD. You can try other methods but I doubt they'll do you any good. Matter of fact, if you try twisting something off you will likely damage it and not be able to use it again.

I have pulled several off, 850, S70, 960, S90, they all pull off and pop back on. Now anything cracked, brittle, already broken may not go back on, but if it's already broken, it needs replaced anyway.
 
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:25 PM
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rspi, any things I should be concerned about opening up the passenger side door panel to see if the problem is there? The switches are working so far, and the passenger window began working again after a bump or two, and it goes up sometimes only after I make it go down, then up again, so all sounds like something's not tight. Are there any drawings that would make the job easier for me and allow me to go in the proper sequence rather than getting stumped over a screw that should have been removed before another? thanks.
 


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