Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Help!!!!!!

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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 08:42 PM
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I have a 94 850 with a 96 engine I installed three weeks ago. After installing, I tried to start but the coil was arcing to itself so no spark. I replaced the coil and it started right up. Ran great for 5 days and then died in our driveway as my son pulled up to park. Cranking but no start. Also, the battery was losing charge over the 5 days. Here is my status:
- when the battery is connected the ecu and the idle motor both heat up and stay that way, even with the key out.
- The fuel pump will not pressurize when the key turns, nor run as I turn the engine over.
- If I remove the ecu, fuel pump will pressurize and idle motor does not heat up, but injectors will not activate (even with the ecu in) I have spark and pressure with ecu out but no injector activity.
- I have replaced the ecu twice and no luck ( as well as the fuel pump relay)
- I tried to pull codes from no.2 socket but get nothing (other sockets are working)
- With the ecu out, I pulled one injector out and let gas splash its way into the inlet - the engine would fire on that one cylinder.

Any ideas would be incredibly appreciated!!!!
 
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 08:49 PM
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Did you reconnect all the engine ground wires good?
 
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 09:28 PM
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I am pretty sure but I'll go and re-check right now. It helps to know that's apossibility.
Thanks!
 
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 09:33 PM
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Default hi from jersey

Originally Posted by applecrk
I have a 94 850 with a 96 engine I installed three weeks ago. After installing, I tried to start but the coil was arcing to itself so no spark. I replaced the coil and it started right up. Ran great for 5 days and then died in our driveway as my son pulled up to park. Cranking but no start. Also, the battery was losing charge over the 5 days. Here is my status:
- when the battery is connected the ecu and the idle motor both heat up and stay that way, even with the key out.
- The fuel pump will not pressurize when the key turns, nor run as I turn the engine over.
- If I remove the ecu, fuel pump will pressurize and idle motor does not heat up, but injectors will not activate (even with the ecu in) I have spark and pressure with ecu out but no injector activity.
- I have replaced the ecu twice and no luck ( as well as the fuel pump relay)
- I tried to pull codes from no.2 socket but get nothing (other sockets are working)
- With the ecu out, I pulled one injector out and let gas splash its way into the inlet - the engine would fire on that one cylinder.

Any ideas would be incredibly appreciated!!!!
volvos are electrical nitemares if you swapped the engine you may have broken the ground to the ecu , look for broken wire in engine compartment
 
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 11:39 PM
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checked all grounds and all are intact - also no broken wires......
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 05:55 AM
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It has to be wiring somewhere the trick will be to find it.
Do you have 3 wires on the starter post?
Any way you might have 2 plugs reversed?
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 12:34 PM
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That sounds like a possibility - anyways, I'm getting the idea that wiring is the culprit... I'll check all again.
Thanks!
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 06:04 AM
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OK - checked and re-checked all connections. No difference. Still baffled by this (along with everyone I know with Volvo experience)
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 12:17 PM
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Default hi from jersey

Originally Posted by applecrk
OK - checked and re-checked all connections. No difference. Still baffled by this (along with everyone I know with Volvo experience)
ask a tech where the MAIN ground is , maybe near or on the motormount ? its the main central maybe in the engine comparment had this prob with a pontiac also have them send you a pic ! i will NEVER own another volvo NEVER !
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 01:06 PM
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Will do - I love my b230 Volvos (I have two 940s and a 240) but this 850 has certainly been a nightmare!
Thanks
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 06:05 PM
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If the engine you swapped in ran fine before you put it in, it has to be electrical. I swapped an engine (even adapted it to accept EGR). When I turned the key, it started right up.

It has to be electrical.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 10:24 AM
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What are the odds of a wiring harness replacement fixing this?!?
 
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 08:09 PM
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If you can isolate by logic which wires in the existing harness to check for continuity, you can possibly trim some labor.

However, it may take you much longer to chase the electrical issue (short - or worse - intermittent short) than to swap the harness. Just make sure the donor car ran fine before the harness was removed. Can you take photos of another car with the same harness as your to compare with?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 09:31 AM
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So...I have replaced the wiring harness and it at least solved one problem - the ecu and Idle Air Control don't heat up anymore. But still no start! Just cranking. One thing that is also different is that the main relay buzzes loudly with key in position II. I tried three different relays and all the same. Also, I get a code in A-6 (Ignition ecu) that indicates no signal from injectors. Does any of this mean anything to anybody??
 
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 08:23 PM
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Did the wires in the relay plug happen to fall out?
Maybe they are in the wrong slots.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 05:47 AM
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Actually, the old wiring harness had that problem - but I made sure this one was intact when I plugged it in.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 09:03 PM
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Cam sensor good?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 06:45 AM
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I have tried two different ones, but they are both used. It's just the odds of both of them being faulty seems unlikely. I'll procure another just to make sure.
Thanks!
 
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