Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

installing springs

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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 06:02 PM
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ROKCHEVS850T's Avatar
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Default installing springs

Anybody have an install write up on installing some new springs on an 850? I have done a ton of them on Jeeps, but obviously a whole different game all together. Compressors, mm? socket for hub? Anything else I ned to know? Any idea on time to install all four corners? Thanks. A write up or schematic would be awesome for the front end.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:52 PM
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Default RE: installing springs

http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut/

If you have any questions, ask. I just did this this past weekend. I had to replace my spring seats.

However, I didn't tighten my passenger side enough so I will have to redo them this weekend...
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 08:14 PM
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Default RE: installing springs

What size nut is it on the strut itself? Car is torn apart in the garage and can't get back to it till the weekend, so help now is much appreciated. Thanks.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 08:26 PM
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tech's Avatar
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Default RE: installing springs

21MM or 13/16 6 point socket. Thats if you are talking about the top single nut.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 08:48 PM
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Default RE: installing springs

The top nut could be so tight that the hex (Allen) hole may get stripped (Keep the piston rod from turning with a breaker bar + Allen socket, while loosening the nut with box-end wrench). This happened to me. On one side, I stuck a small prybar into the slot in the special washer to keep the piston rod from turning. On the other side, this did not work so I destroyed the nut with a chisel & hammer, but you may be able to loosen the nut by hitting the edge of the top cap to counter-clock wise with a chisel & hammer. I need to buy a nut-cracker.

I believe you know by working on Jeep, that utmost safety precautions must be observed when compressing the coil springs.

Replace all hardware, except the cross-shaped nut unless damaged. The nut usually requires special tool but mine was loose enough to turn with a punch & hammer. I would replace all lock nuts with new ones, as stated in service manual.

The 2 parts vendors some of us use:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850shocks.htm
http://www.eeuroparts.com/home.aspx

FYR:
https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm

FRONT SUSPENSION:
1. Upper mount (bearing) with new nuts x 3 each side (total of 6 nuts).
2. Upper springseat (notorious for wearing out & causing clunking noise).
3. Bump stop for strut
4. Special washer for strut
5. Top cap for strut
6. New bolts & nuts for strut lower attachment.
7. Ball joint/control arm with new nuts & bolts (Newer models cannot replace ball joint alone).
8. Sway bar (stabilizer) link rods (new parts should come with new lock nuts).
9. Struts (only if the car rolls too much or the car keeps bouncing after hitting bumps). Either OEM Sachs or Bilstein Touring is good. Bilstein Heavy Duty seems to be a bit too firm. Koni Adjustable seems to have good reputation too, as you can adjust the damper.

REAR SUSPENSION:
1. Shocks (Sachs, Bilstein Touring or Koni Adjustable)
2. Upper shock mounts
3. New lock nuts

I hope this adds to others' advice.


JPN
 
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