So, I took out the old starter today to find that it was an aftermarket starter.

I had the OEM yard starter tested ad Advance and it was fine. The gear sometimes would stick but some grease will fix that. It cranked every time on the testing machine.

Anyway. I am going to put this one in and see if it works. If not, I believe a new PNP switch is in order. Where can that be bought?


Also, I picked up my new fuel pump relay from Advance today, and go figure, it isn't the right one. It doesn't even fit the car in any way shape or form. I'll get my money back on that one.

I took the old pump relay out and it looked fine. What to check next from the running issue? Could it really just be a simple tune up? It seems as if *sometimes* when you start the car it will die, but if you hold it at 2k for a few seconds, it runs fine. But I have not really driven it much to figure it out.


Where should I start?

Advice?

 

As far as parts go try calling Don or Jamie at Darrell Waltrip Volvo in Franklin, TN - (800) 689-0021 . OEM is the only way to go on the PNP switch and they will sell it to you for Scan Crap prices.

If you suspect the fuel pump relay just jumper the socket positions associated with pins 15 and 87 on the relay. If everything is good after you jumper it then the relay is bad - you can fix it by simply replacing the electrolytic capacitors for about $2.00 worth of parts from Radio Shack. If you still have problems after you jumper the relay then chances are the relay itself is OK and the fuel pump is bad. Many have had good luck with the Walbro replacements but they are kinda noisy compared to OEM. For $75.00 vs $285.00 I'll put up with a little noise. That is what they make the radio for - if you turn it up loud enough you can't hear the next thing that is going to break.

...Lee

 

Thanks Lee!

I'll keep that in mind.



GRRR...the no start thing happened again. Sometimes it cranks and fires up, and then other times it does not. So, my next step would be the PNP switch correct?


What about just grabbing one from an S70 N/A at the junk yard locally?

 

OHHHH

I realized what Advance sent me.

They sent me the Fuel SYSTEM relay

It looks EXACTLY like this:

http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?st...173&V_ID=10197


Is that even worth keeping? Or go get my $40 back from them and call it a day. (After I jump the connection.

 

What makes me think its the PNP switch now is that changing the starter did nothing really.

But, I don't have any warning lights or any of the sort on the dash when the car is on.

Can the PNP still go bad without warning lights?

 

could be an idle control valve.

 

I spent many years installing Car alarms. Sometime customer would complain that we messed up their cars because it would intermittently not start. To address this I made a simple three L.E.D. (or light bulb) setup that tapped into the ignition, starter(under hood)and starter switch(key). I would send the customer home with this contraption installed in their car. When the problem occured they would write down what lights would light up. That would pinpoint where the problem was (which was never the alarm install :-)...). But, using this concept you should be able to track down the culprit.

 

If the car cranks but does not fire then it is not the PNP. When the PNP really goes bad the car will not crank at all. Most of the PNP problems I have had trigger the dreaded flashing up arrow before they totally fail but my son has had no crank problems when it is subzero - in that case he could usually get it to crank by rowing the shifter back and forth and then trying again in neutral rather than park.

The relay you got was the master fuel system relay that goes on the fan shroud - they rarely fail but the wires going to them have been known to break. It controls the power to the injectors.

...Lee

 

Yeah but sometimes it WILL crank and start, and run fine.

Other times you turn the key to start it and NOTHING happens, which leads me to believe its the PNP.

ja?

 

I was able to limp it in town to Advance to get codes read and buy a new hose clamp.

What came back were:

Gear ratio incorrect (P0730)

MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input (P0102)

So, I am assuming that P0730 is for the PNP switch?

The other code may have something to do with the running issue?

Because, when I was letting the car idle in my garage, it would jump to about 1300 RPM and back to idle and so forth for a little bit, maybe a minute max.

And today so far it hasn't failed to crank. It has simply been the running issue, but after several tries it was fine.

Not like I am planning on taking a trip to Antarctica any time soon with this car, but it would be nice to have it fixed

 

For PO102 check this link http://www.obd-codes.com/p0102

 

Okay. I'll inspect the MAF. I may clean it with that MAF cleaner one can purchase.

 

with the car running unplug the maf. if the car dies or idles VERY rough, then the maf is good. if there is little or no change the maf is bad. nice crude way of testing. a cleaning might be a good idea also, use maf cleaner though, no brake cleaner or anything.

 

I unplugged the MAF and it stalled out the car.

Additionally, I have noticed that the no start issue only happens after the car is warmed up to operating temp. Could the PNP switch do that? Is that why the code scanner is giving me the gear ratio incorrect code?

 

.
Looks like MAF is good.

 

Yep.


Well I just tried doing the tune up and this is the first car I can say I am having a problem getting running after so.

All it will do is start and buck a few times and then die, or run choppy.

Does anyone have a picture of how the plug wires should go?

On the inside of the cap there was a circle cover that said Bosch on it that went over the rotor. I forgot to put that on. Problem?


Also, there is a coupler that has three vac hoses running out of it, one of which has a screw in the hose (middle) and on the intake hose there is an unplugged nipple, and then a larger hose next to it has a hose on it with a bolt in it.


Additionally, that coupler/tree thing has no plug going to it, but there is another plug going to a SIMILAR coupler near the battery.

 

It still might be the mass flow with it unplugged the car should still idle pretty good.
You could have more than one problem.

 

Are you talking about that yellow foam ring thing that goes of the rotor? That's a seal of some sorts, I would recommend putting it back in since it's only three screws to take off the cap.

After doing my turbo and what not I made the mistake of leaving my MAF unplugged after everything was in. The car starts and idles pretty rough but should stay running for a little while. It totally butchers your average mpg btw.

There are two nipples on the air intake hose that goes from the box to the turbo, I assume that is the one that you're talking about. There is a nipple right by where the hose connects to the turbo, that is the PTC system, and there should be a vac line running from there to the vacuum tree (that's the only way I could figure out how to do it since on the 94's there isn't a nipple on the air intake like the later models).

There is also a nipple right below the MAF, one of the hoses from the coupler that has three hoses coming from it like you stated should be connected to that and the other two go to the turbo.

When you say this coupler has no plug going to it, do you mean it is electronically not plugged in?

 

My maf is plugged in.

On the intake, after the MAF, there are two nipples. One of which has a larger hose on it that is about three inches long with a bolt in it to plug it. Close, is a smaller nipple with no hose. On the three pot tree that has pink yellow and blue markings on it, the middle one has a three inch hose on it plugged with a screw. This thing was bolted to my air cleaner box I believe on my wagon, or something around there. Some of its hoses go to the turbo.

The one plug that went into it wasn't there and was plugged into a similar looking object that had the nipples broken off.

I don't know. I can't find my cam to take pics with either.

 

I used the firing order diagram on AllData.

SO, now the plug wires are in correctly.


The issue now is that the car "pops" upon cranking. It will crank for a little bit, then pop, and then crank and then pop. If that makes sense.

It ran fine before I did this tune up. Not sure why its doing this now.

Hell, if anyone has any ideas and it would be better to call me, here is my cell phone number (five seven four) two four eight- one one nine one.


This really put a kink in my day.

I unplugged the battery to see if it will help at all.