As i'm getting into boost, no matter what gear, engine feels like it's on rumble strips, and at least half the power is gone.

Cam sensor is suggested by a friend. Almost everything underhood is new oem stuff.

I'm thinking fuel pump relay or knock sensors. My catalytic converter is stock, no rattling.

Vacuum is at 15-22 on the boost gauge. Idles fine, gradual throttle is fine, moderate boost is fine.
Only happens when under full boost.

Heading to the jy after work tomorrow to hopefully diagnose.

I've spent at least 1K within the last month on maintenance/exhaust, i'm sore.

 

sounds like your hitting your fuel cutoff almost..... did you replace your fuel filter? check your pressure.

 

Or ... the ignition is breaking down under load.

Have you checked the cap, rotor, wires and plugs ??

 

20K on all oem cap,wires,plugs have ~10K.

fuel filter is 20K, i'll order a new fuel pump relay.

got a jy cam sensor, problem still persists.

I will say this, car started to run weird after a 145mph closed course run earlier in the day.

 

BEFORE cam sensor
MOV02688.mp4 video by vmaxx55 - Photobucket

AFTER cam sensor
MOV02689.mp4 video by vmaxx55 - Photobucket

 

Miles are less than what you'd expect for a failure BUT ........

Have you pulled the cap and inspected the underside and the rotor ??

Have you pulled a couple plugs and taken a look at the electrods ??

They may be lower mileage but it sounds like you push it a bit and when pushed, things wear out earlier.

After all, they are only OEM parts and not made for the race track.

 

Ok, do you have a cel? If not, I think the problem is torque, maybe an axle or the tranny torque converter.

 

Axles are oem 6-7 months old, i'll scan/re-gap plugs tomorrow.

 

No codes.

So... I pulled all five plugs, they are grayish-brown, according to Haynes that is normal. What is not normal is one of the plug wire shafts are light brown, and the plug looks a little beat up (the cylinder closest to the intake box)

There is a couple hairline cracks on the disty cap cover, but no cracks inside. The rotor looks good. The wires look good.

BUT there has been a slight "blurp" at idle every 10 or so seconds, not sure if always been there or more noticeable since exhaust.

I'll see if any better on the way to work. Have pics but photobucket site is down, will upload shortly.

 

Well after a drive the problem's not as bad, but still there. Also overboosted to 17lbs at one point which is a first after exhaust, I don't like that.

Plugs were at .29-.30 which I regapped to .28. I think new plugs, wires(ipd)?, oem cap/rotor would cure the issue. There have always been a sputter since 2010 so I also think a new fuel pump relay is in order.

Pics below:
The wire closest to the intake is brown, i wonder why.


the only weird looking plug(closest to the intake box)


slight cracks on the black disty cover:

 

That cap looks like it's the problem as I'm pretty sure I'm seeing carbon tracking inside it.

Also the way you describe it, driving for a while and it gets better makes me think it's ignition breaking down. You drive it for a while and the heat dries it out and keeps the spark from scattering.

 

I want to run my car in the BBORR next spring. I guess I need to really give my car a good stage zero before I do.

I alway want to think these cars could run down the autoban at 110+ mph for a few hours at a time. Maybe not, if a few runs down the track will cause things like that.

 

In her defense, the ignition system (plugs/wires,cap&rotor) have been on since early 2011, since then it has seen north of 140mph at least a dozen times and also have gotten in boost (14+lbs) maybe more than 100 times.

After a brief warm up this morning, it felt almost noRmal so i'm confident that a secondary ignition tune up would suffice.

Before you enter the BBOR, you should replace ignition engine parts if they are 20K miles or older. I'd also get a new fuel pump relay, those are prone to cause sputtering(which i've had sporadically since 2010).

Thanks Frog for the sound advice.

 

The average speed in the BBORR is 125 (max for first timers is 140), that should be easy for a T5 that is in decent shape but I don't know, I can't remember the last time this car has seen tripple digits. It revs up to the red line pretty quick and smoothly.

 

So i've replaced the above-mentioned parts (gapped .25 oem plugs,kingsborne plug wires, bosch cap/rotor), car feels good for the most part BUT just doesn't quite run away north of 130mph like I remember.

On a closed course I pulled on an 07 Altima 3.5 a few times from 100 but the time it took to get to high 130s, I remember being in the 140+s before.

Now, I'm thinking that the 8mm Kingsborne plug wires are subpar to the oem 7mm Bougicords (Bosch) I was running before. Does anyone have their own experience with Kingsborne?

http://www.kingsborn...3&categoryId=71

8mm kingsborne on top
7mm bosch bougicords on bottom(what I had in before)

Excuse the dirty finger,removed an intake manifold and other ish from a v6solara...

Looks like the kingsborne is actually skinnier than the bosch, but a thicker outer core(rubbery to the touch). I'm unsure if this'll be a detriment to top speed.