So as some of you know I recently bought a 1997 850r. There are a few issues that I'm going to be taking care of, but was wondering if any of you had any input on other things I should do. (and this is going to be as much a checklist for me as anything)

First and foremost -
1)PCV system - smoke from dipstick (dealer will be taking care of this) Dealer fixed it, no more smoke

2)Radiator fan - grinding noise/bad bearing (dealer will be taking care of this) Stopped making the noise, I don't know if the shop that did the PCV lubricated it, but it sounds fine now

3)Coolant leak from reservoir - this ones on me - Is there a good spot to buy parts like this? Should I check pick a part? Will autozone or napa carry it? Got the part from IPD and installed it, no more coolant leaks

edit - thanks again to gdog - http://www.ipdusa.com/prodtype.asp?C...ition=0&categorycrumbs=998

4)intermittent ABS and traction lights - Lights will go off, I brake on a bumpy road, ABS kicks in for 2-3 seconds, lights come back on, abs goes away. Brakes work excellent aside from this.. I'm guessing a dirty(from leaky coolant mixing with dirt) or bad speed sensor at the wheel. - Anyone have input on diagnosing/cleaning/replacing speed sensors?

edit: thanks for gdog pointing me in the right direction on this one - http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...?p=46827#46827

5)Coolant system flush and check for leaks -
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...68/#post348390

6)Once these things are done, I want to do a full engine bay cleaning. The reservoir has put coolant on everything on the left side, and oil coming up the dipstick has got oil over everything in the middle.. The right side is only slightly cleaner than the rest. Is there anything to look out for? Obviously don't blast the intake or fuse box, but can I pressure wash it from underneath? I'm going to take it to a DIY car wash with some simple green and go to town.

7)Transmission drain/flush - I'm going to go by this thread - https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...tep-step-5157/ - Shifts are a little rough under load, rspi said that was more likely the motor mounts, which brings me to -

8)motor mounts - going to use these two threads -
Motor mount, right side, Volvo S70, replacement instructions
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/rep...m-bushing.html

9)Is there any maintenance that can/should be done on the turbo?? Never had a turbo car before. Seems to be functioning normally.

10) Fuel/oil/transmission additives. Going to run lucas through the gas and put some in the tranny when I do the drain/flush. Reading on the forums people seem to be all about stabil and seafoam.. Does anyone have any opinion on these? I've always had good luck with lucas transmission additive, especially on old cars.


I'm thinking doing it all myself or having the dealer cover warrantied items, parts and fluids should be under 3-400 dollars unless I'm missing something. Oil was just changed by the dealer..

almost forgot - 11) AC.. doesn't work right now.. compressor clicks on and off, mechanic said it most likely just needs a recharge. Last on my list, unless anyone thinks it could cause other issues(I don't use the AC at all right now)

Sorry for the wall of text.. Like I said its also going to be my checklist.. Gonna have to make another thread for cosmetic stuff I think.. haha


Thanks in advance for any input/advice.



edit: going through this thread is answering a few of my questions - https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...s-s-v70s-9266/

edit again: adding to the list

12/etc) oil cap, turbo return line

 

3) Part sources: IPD, FcpGroton, rockauto. Local autozone/napa/etc. is OK in a pinch but compare prices and locals generally won't have OEM parts.

4) Could be intermittent "broken solder joints in ABS module" syndrome; google that for more info.

6) Wouldn't recommend IMO but whatever; usually will break/damage something in process.

9) Just keep good clean oil in the engine; don't let it get low or too long between changes. You didn't say how many miles on the car but eventually it will need to be rebuilt.

 

Thanks for the replies.. Its at 175000. I really want to clean the bottom off just so I can keep up on leaks - if something else were leaking at this point I wouldn't even be able to tell..

I'm guessing this is what your talking about for abs?? - http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...?p=46827#46827

I work as a computer tech and am quite handy at soldering... I'm gonna order the e5 torx and do it next weekend.. Thanks

 

Looking at IPD, would you recommend against the aftermarket reservoir and cap?

Its $28 for both aftermarket vs $90 for OE

 

Different people will have different opinions but for 60 bucks I'd go with anything that holds coolant and fits properly in place. I don't sweat it if it doesn't say Volvo on it as long as it gets the job done.

 

 

3. I get coolant tanks from the salvage yard. $7

6. I use engine cleaner from the parts store. Be careful around distributor, etc. Be gentle & don't spray to close. Afterwards, check spark plug holes for water, not sure how it gets down there but it does.

7. Do the drain & fill. These tranny are pretty solid and I really don't think they need addititives.

 

8. I think you need the tranny lower torque mount, upper torque mount and maybe the one in this video:

 

awesome, thanks for the replies rspi.

Is there a video or thread on replacing the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor? I've done plugs before...

Are these a good cap and rotor?
http://www.ipdusa.com/prodtype.asp?C...gorycrumbs=958


Are the transmission moutns the same for upper and lower? I'm only seeing soft and hard on ipd - is one for upper and lower or do you have a choice between soft and hard?

Product Search: TRANSMISSION MOUNTS

 

Trans lower mount:
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/9216 http://www.ipdusa.com/products/9769/...n-torque-mount

Plugs video:

Upper torque mount:
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/9896/...r-engine-mount

Front motor mount:

 

 

The cap and rotor just unscrew and you screw the new ones on. Once the new ones are in place, THEN install one new wire at a time following the position from the old cap hanging there.
The only trick with that is you need a 5/32" hex for the rotor. It's really metric but I use the 5/32 without any problems. Can't remember what the cap takes ??
Spark plugs, if you have a compressor break them loose a turn or two and take a blow gun with an extension on it and blow out the hole so nothing falls into the combustion chamber when you pull it all the way out.
Put a small amount of anti-seize on the threads so it comes out easy next time.
As for gap:
DON"T use a ramp type feeler gauge if it's a platinum or iridium or any special metal coated plug. The sliding motion scrapes off the thin coat of precious metal and you now have a 1.99 copper plug If you need to adjust the gap, you need to grab it and gently bend it near the point it's attached to the shell and threads.

 

Is this the front motor mount you're talking about??

Front Engine Mount

Do I just check for tears in all the mounts or is there a good way to diagnose if they are bad or not?

 

Also, how crucial is the tune up if it seems to be running well?? And/or is replacing the wires completely necessary?

I think tune up is going to be at the end of the list, might just do the plugs and do the cap/rotor/wires later.

 

last question for a little bit..

so far I have

transmission mount
right engine mount
front engine mount
upper engine mount

..

I think the only other mount is rear engine, should I do that one at the same time just to get it out of the way?

 

Car is at the shop right now getting the PCV and radiator fan fixed/replaced.

Going to vegas this weekend, will start knocking out this list the next weekend though.

 

 

So I got the car back from the shop, drove it 10 miles to a gas station by my house, checked the dipstick, no more smoke. They said they had to order the fan, but while I was checking the dipstick I noticed the radiator fan was on and not making anymore weird noises.. I don't know if they lubricated it or what, but there's 2 things off my list.

I drive home, put the car in park, and the check engine light comes on right when I put it in park. The car was running really smooth and a little quieter after getting the PCV done, not sure what it could be.. I checked the gas cap(been down that road before) it was clicked all the way.

I leave for vegas tomorrow, so it will have to wait til monday/tuesday.. I'll bring it down to the shop and after that start on my laundry list on the weekend.

 

Check your vacuum connections to see if any are loose. That code will cost you at least 10% in fuel efficiency. Maybe the shop can read it and find a quick fix before you leave.

 

Still waiting on the shop to find time to fix the CEL.. might just end up fixing it myself. Getting the run around..

In the meantime I changed out the coolant resevoir last night, and plan on doing a tranny flush and coolant flush this weekend. And then the full engine bay cleaning so I can track down any other leaks.

Slowly but surely we're getting the car back on track.