Hi everyone,

I've been looking a bit for a "beater" car, want pre OBD2, manual transmission, comfort, reliability "reasonable" economy, and a wagon. It happens that I work for the Volvo group (trucks), so I have a little soft spot in my heart for Volvo, and think they offer some things that meet my criteria (though I'll still end up jealous of my friend's S6 Avant that he got for $2200).

Anyway found one locally for $800, has a replacement engine, 5 speed 850 wagon. Assuming it's a base model as there's no badge other than 850 on the rear (would say turbo or GLT otherwise right?)

He does mention an odd problem, and that's what I'm here about. I'm pretty mechanically handy but just wanted to see if this issue seems like something that's easy/cheap to fix, or if it's going to be a money pit.

Any thoughts appreciated.

 

Damn clean for an $800 beater! Don't think you can go too far wrong for that price, but that being said, I wouldn't believe that lifter BS. Ck the compression yourself would be my advice before you buy.

 

I'd put my money on a fuel pump issue. Check to see if you are getting pressure at the end of the fuel rail. I have replaced the relays and pump on mine for similar issues. All of these on the wagon are not hard to do.

 

Ignition switch is reasonably easy to DIY too.

 

 

 

 

 

Wow, does look clean to me as well. I don't buy the lifter theory either.

 

Hydraulic lifters don't "pressurize" they have springs bound in oil that simply take up slack for valve lash.

 

So what are we actually hearing when the "lifters are ticking"? The lifters hitting the cam after being poked by the valve? Or the cam lobe smacking the lifter?

I guess it really doesn't matter.

 

Well, the oil under pressure is what takes up the slack and the spring is used to return the lifter to a neutral position. The spring isn't taking up the slack the pressure is so I'd have to go with it needing to be "pressurized" as the spring without oil pressure would leave way too much play in the valve train.
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OK, I got some more info out of him. Turns out it's an auto trans which means I'm not interested in it for myself, but might be interested in it for a fix & flip if I can get it under $800. It looks really clean for a '95.

Need to go back through these videos. I don't think a compression issue would be a total non-start like this.

I had a Jeep with a dead crank position sensor that would turn over and not start.

Has to be either no spark or no fuel, so I can take a timing light and check for spark.

 

Boy watching these videos makes me want an 850, crazy easy to work on compared to some other things I've done. I've got a 2-post lift, and even the timing belt looks like a breeze.

Speaking of which, from these videos he is sort of implying that these are not an interference engine. Is that true? i.e. a broken timing belt may not mean a destroyed engine? That was the other thought I had.

 

Pics of your garage w/your lift please (so we can be envious).


No, interference engine; broken timing belt = bent valves (every time).

 

+1
Interference engine; broken timing belt = bent valves (every time)

If it's a turbo it's almost always going to be an automatic. It's just the way they built them and shipped them to the US

 

If that timing belt sneezes it will destroy the head, lol.

Most of the red blocks were not, 240 & 740 cars.

 

OK, good to know. That would definitely be something to check if I proceed with this idea. What do these sell for in decent shape? I can't find any others for sale!

I don't think it's a turbo, wouldn't it have a badge on the back if it is?

Got it last November. I had been looking to build next to the house, but this came up cheaper than just a new shell, and had the lift, compressor, tire stuff, and some misc other enhancements. Low ceiling area to the right is an office with full bathroom that I set up my weights in, and a little lounge area.

 

the oil coats the surface of the lobe creating a cushion. Before the oil circulates it has little cushion causing the noise between the lobe and the "lifter". Volvos don't actually have lifters, they have followers which ride on top of the valve spring and contact the cam from the bottom eliminating rocker arms. While I'm on this, I must point out the fact that I have never seen a hydraulic cam follower, usually you have to manually set valve lash with shims with followers. Someone with a Haynes manual or access to alldata should check to see if these cars need manual valve adjustment.

 

that lifter is not even close to what's in a Volvo, that's a pushrod engine. And, even in those engines, lifters don't pressurize. If you takes lifter out of one of those old motors you'll find that it takes ALOT to push it together and it moves only millimeters. Even if you have collapsed lifters a motor will still run, poorly, but run nonetheless.