I just got my first car, it's a '95 850 GLT. I've been doing some work to get it back in working order. The previous owners had not driven it for 5 years, so I had to change a few fluids, etc.

The car is running, and I've driven it a little, and I've run into a few problems that searches don't seem to help

The tachometer reads 0, and the needle doesn't move at all. I'm hoping it's an easy fix, but I don't know what to do about it.

Second, the windshield washer fluid doesn't spray. I'm going to try running air through the lines to see if they're clogged, I'm thinking it's the pump motor, though, I don't hear anything when the sprayers are turned on.

lastly, I'm having a problem with the power antenna. I lubed it, and it's moving smoothly now, but when I turn the radio on, it goes up, and the motor keeps trying to push it for probably 30 seconds or so, how can I fix this? (it goes down with no problem)

I'll have more questions, but if I could get some answers to these, that would be great.


P.S. Does anyone have a recommendation on what pads to use with OEM/stock rotors?

EDIT: Obligatory picture of said car http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p.../Photo0184.jpg

 

The other guys will have to chime... but let's hope you didn't just buy a car that has been sitting for 5 years. You might want to pull out an injector and inspect it at least....

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...24779&p=105870

Ok...

The tach... you might need to pull out your instrument cluster to check it.

This PDF has all the info you need on that...

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/ser...umentPanel.pdf

You'll need to lift the dashpad....

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850-16/removing-dash-pad-replace-instrument-panel-lights-3747/

You could just go to a junkyard and try swapping the entire instrument cluster (I believe it's around $30 for one at most yards).

(Side note... does your car's speedometer go to 140? If so, you have a VDO instrument cluster; if not, you have a Yazaki cluster. If you can find a trip computer in the junk yard, the little display where you mostly likely have a clock, maybe temp.... you can have live MPG, Miles per tank, Avg. MPG, etc on that display under the gauges.)... see the PDF for more info.

As for the sprayer... the pump is inside the reservoir... easier to see if you pull the entire reservoir. These are easy parts to find in the junkyard. For more info. get this PDF... the info you need, all about the pumps, the lines, front and rear... is in the back...

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...ile.php?id=362

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That's a mistake, the 140mph difference thing... but what you can count on, is the odometer reset button.... VDO it's on the left... Yazaki it's on the right...

 

I haven't done a whole lot to my car... but here's a couple of good easy things to do...

Pollen Filter...
http://www.volvospeed.com/pollenfliter.php

Compression test...(takes less than thirty minutes and can identify engine problems such as worn rings or valve seats.)
http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/compression_test.html

Flame Trap...
http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/ftrap.php

Check a few vacuum lines...
http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/vacuum_lines.php
(you'll see the vacuum lines tree when you do the flame trap)

While you're there, clean your throttle body...
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/tip...n-throttlebody

While you're there, might as well clean your EGR...
http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/egr.php

Serpentine Belt...
http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/850_serp.pdf

PCV system...
http://lakesidedp.com/uploadpics/pcv/
(if you don't do it now... you'll be doing it later... and it improves gas mileage)

 

You know... from the outside... It looks pretty nice for sitting around for 5 years.

Hope you got an awesome price on it since the owner didn't want it =)

Welcome aboard too.

 

1. My guess on the tach problem is a cable that connects to the transmission.

2. The windshield washer is likely the nozzels clogged. Un-do the tubing under the nozzels and see if it squarts then. If it does, clean out the nozzels with a small piece of wire. I usually use the wire from a bread tie, I strip off the plastic.

3. The power antenna is fine. As long as it goes up and comes back down don't mess with it.

4. OEM Brake pads are good. Also, ipdusa.com and FCPGroton sells great pads.
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Great tip on the flame trap. Not sure if the turbo models have them. I'll have to check.

Not all cars have the pollen filter. Mine did not so I ADDED ONE.

 

Thank you everyone!

I know the people I'm getting the car from, and I know they took care of it until they suddenly stopped driving it

I'll take a look at everything mentioned
They want $1K for it, I'd rather pay 500, but we shall see... (still haven't paid, they wanted to make sure it would run first)

EDIT: rspi, the antenna makes a grinding sound against the gear when it's all the way up and then sometimes doesn't want to pull it back down

 

Antenna: Maybe the mass is about to break. I don't think you can do anything about it unless you want to replace an antenna mass that is still working.

 

ok, I'll probably just disconnect the motor and put the antenna up and down by hand

 

Why not get a whole new motor assembly from a junkyard? Don't start compromising to avoid a little effort.

 

I dont think anyone is recommending avoiding effort, or making the antenna half-assed, just let it do its thing until it stops working... then fix it.

 

i gotta agree with reg here. it's not like NOT replacing the antenna is hurting anything else, so run it until it breaks, then replace it.

 

I was just wondering if I could get the grinding sound to stop, the antenna works fine, otherwise

 

The number 1 rule in mechanics is "Don't Fix What Aint Broke!!!" I'm not saying neglect preventive maintenance, like a timing belt or something. But with things that wont leave you one the side of the road can wait. Like, why tear into a power seat all because it is slow??? Or why replace a head light that takes 3 seconds to come on instead of 1 second?

 

Sounds to me like grinding gears = broken

Probably a $12 part at the yard.

 

I also noticed the gas gauge says 16gal, and I KNOW there's no more than about half that
I haven't driven the car enough to be 100% sure the gas gauge is broken, but if it is, should replacing the instrument cluster fix the gauge and tach?

thanks

 

new problem
sometimes when I drive the car, the speedometer will just sit on the needle at 0
sometimes it works
and sometimes it STARTS working halfway there, but never suddenly stops working

any ideas?

the odometer still turns

 

The problem with you gas gauge could be the fuel sending unit in the tank. If I were you, I would figure that gas gauge problem out ASAP. Maybe you should go straight to the station and fill up. Then reset your trip and refill every 300 miles until you get that fixed.

Not sure about all the other problems with your cluster.